Processing of fasteners in the bottom of sleeves with cuffs. Sleeves with cuffs and clasp can be processed on the continuation of the seam the sleeves and cut out on integral parts 

Incision closure on the whole parts can be processed one facing (Fig. 77, a) according to the method outlined in Chapter 1, § 14, or without obrazek.
During the processing of a fastener without obcutek first auxiliary patterns outline the cutting line at the planned line item is cut strictly on the warp threads are doing at the end of the incision undercuts the right angle on the value 0,5 - 0,7 cm Parallel to incision closure, departing from the cross undercut to 0.5 - 0.7 cm, buckle slices (Fig. 77, b). On the edge, forming the upper side of the clasp, cut bends towards the inside, and on the edge forming the lower side of the fastener, on the front side. Tuck the slices into 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut narrow seam itagiba with a shut cut.
The processed edge of the upper side fasteners applied to the bottom, forming a fold (Fig. 77, b), while the amount of time one treated region to another is equal to 2 - 2,5 cm Pleated clip on sanding machine stitching in the form of the rectangle so that the slices at the top of the clasp was located between lines tacking. The clasp ready priorivet.

Processing of fasteners located on the continuation of the seam of the sleeve is next. The seam of the sleeve on the fastening area when cutting do allowances. Cut seam allowance, forming the upper side of the fastener, bend towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut on a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent edge (Fig. 78,a). Cut stock, forming the lower side of the chain, is treated with a facing, cut the shape of the seam allowance (Fig. 78, b). The inner section of piping bend in the direction of the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm fromregion. In the products of legkopolirujushchiesja tissues slice the pre-piping overcast on a special machine. The facing applied to the front side mating, which forms the lower side of the zipper, face down, and obtachivaya detail from the piping. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see Obtachku bent on the underside of the sleeve, straighten the seam, forming, edging to the side piping with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm, and priorivet. The inner edge of the pipingattached to the main details in a few places manually hidden stitches.
After processing the edges of the clasps is produced flatlock sections of the sleeve (Fig. 78,) to the end of the machined clasps, then detail turn on angle 90' and fasten the treated allowances clasps double reverse stitching Clasp ready priorivet.
In sleeves with cuff without a section for the free passage of the hand leave the area where the cuff is not pritachivajut. This area is treated with a seam itagiba with a shut cut. 
  Connection sleeves with armholes. To correctly position the sleeves on the figure, but also to ensurefreedom of movement hands crown long sleeves make the arm openings of the product for 4 to 6 see This value depends on the direction of fashion, fabric structures, and with the manufacture of clothing for individual orders and from the customer's figure. 
In the manufacture of products for individual orders on top part of sleeve first, lay two lines with distance between them of 0.5 cm ( machine or by hand) and tighten the threads, distributing the landing on from the model evenly around the crown or just in front and elbow parts.
To protect the openings from stretching along the edge of the openings front and back in areas down from the shoulder seam 10 - 12 cm and 0.7 - 1.3 cm from the armhole cuts are paving the engine line. Sleeves can be vacany in the openings after connection of the lateral sections and sections of sleeves or to their connections (i.e. in the open armhole).
When the manufacture of products for individual orders before ultimanium sleeveless arm openings in their pre-product is applied to the pins; combining the control notch on the sleeve and the armhole, resultingfitting. When matiwane sleeveless pins alternately removed from the tissue.
Turn the sleeve on the front side, and the product inside out. Sleeve invest in underarm products face inward, equalize cuts and stachivaya from the sleeve on a special machine with simultaneous fit the upper part or on a sanding machine combining the notch at the cut the sleeves and the armholes of the product and evenly distributing fit or ruching at the sleeves. Joint width 1,2 - 1,5 cm 
In the products of woolen fabrics and fabrics with synthetic fibre fit sativum. The slices seam overcast on a special machine. 

  Treatment of openings in products of sleeveless. Products in the sleeveless (Fig. 79, a) process obecnym armhole seam obrazkami, cut to shape armhole, seam or edging a scythe bake, cut at an angle of 45' to the thread .bases, single or double.
Treatment of the armholes with facing, cut to shape armhole is next. Part of the piping, right sides fold inward, equating slices and grind. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seams in the products of woolen, silk fabrics and fabrics with synthetic fibre rautureau, and the products of cotton cloths laid out. The inner sections of obcutek bend towards the inside of 0.5-0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge. In the products of legkopolirujushchiesja tissue slices previously overcast on special car.
The facing applied to the front side of the front openings side down, stack the slices and grind the sections of the arm openings. Joint width 0,7 see At the bottom of the armhole seam in two or three places netscout, short to line 0.1 - 0.2 cm Seam folded in the direction of the piping and scribbled on the front side piping at a distance of 0.1 - 0. cm from seam. The openings facing the bend on the wrong side of the product, stitch and straighten priorivet, forming of the main part in the direction of the piping, piping width0.1 cm (Fig. 79, b).
The inner edge of the piping attached to shoulder and side seams machine stitches parallel to the shoulder and the side seams and the back and the front manually hidden stitches invisible from the front side, 4 to 5 cm, making five or six stitches in each setting. 
In the products of wool, silk fabrics and fabrics with synthetic fibre inner edge obrazek sew with a special machine hidden stitches along the entire length lines.
For processing armholes edged with seam facing the cut out the shape of the openings or at an angle of 45' to the warp threads. Part of the piping and tips grind off. The line should be parallel with the warp threads. Seams cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seams in the products of woolen andrautureau silk fabrics and products cotton fabrics decomposed. Allowed the ends of the piping sew at the same time with the grinding of the arm openings.
The width of the piping depends on the width of Kant and the method of treatment. In the products of wool fabric the seam of the armhole treat the seam with one open cut. Internal cut piping overcast on a special machine (Fig. 79).
Obtachku applied to the front side of the openings face inward, equating slices, grind armhole and side piping. Joint width depends on model. If the ends of piping is not Stacey, grinding the openings beginstepping back from the ends of piping, 3-4 cm, neprilichnye the ends of the strips grind off. The suture is laid and pritachivajut on the remaining section. Obtachku folded inside out products, skirting and seam forming edge. Kant fix machine stitch from the front side of the product into the seam primaqiune piping.The armhole in finished form priorivet.
In the products of cotton fabrics the treated slices armholes edged with seam closed slices are often folded in half facing, whether under an angle of 45' to the warp threads (Fig. 79, g). 
Part of the piping makes so to the line passed parallel to the warp threads. The seams are trimmed leaving a seam allowance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, and laid out on two sides.
The ends of the piping may be ground off. Obtachku bend along in the middle of the underside of the inside sections to equalize, cut one end of the piping tuck inside on 1 cm and placed on the front side of the openings bend in side of the product, sections of piping and openings equalize and grind with side piping. Joint width depends on the model, raw the end of the piping should extend beyond the treated by 1 - 1.5 cm Obtachku folded inside out products around the seam and forming Kant, Kant fix machine stitch from the front side in seam primaqiune piping, with under the line from the inside should definitely get a bend in the piping and the line should pass at a distance of not more than 0.3 cm from the edge (bend).The armhole in finished form priorivet.
In products without a collar and sleeveless (Fig. 79,d) the neckline and the arm openings is treated with a facing-yoke from primary or silk lining fabric in the color of the base material, cut in accordance with the shape of the neck, shoulder seams and armholes products width on the line of mid front, back and under the armhole at least 6 cm.
Treatment of the neck and arm openings is performed after the connection of the shoulder sections while the side sections have to be Stacey. Shoulder seams piping-yoke connecting the same compound the shoulder sections of the basic details. Inner slices of piping-yoke treated the same as the inner sections of conventional obrazek. The facing-the yoke is applied on the front side of the product, equalizing sectionsneckline and arm openings, primetyvajut, forming a small slack key details at the neckline and Prime the neckline and armholes grind from the side piping seam with the width of 0,5 - 0,7 see the products with zipperat the same time stachivaya the ends of the fasteners, the product is turn on the front side through Nesmachny middle seam, straighten the edges, forming the edge of main part of a width of 0.1 cm, and priorivet. To prithwijit without the buttonhole with simultaneous formation of Kant. When grinding the sideslices at the same time grind off the ends of obcutek arm openings.
In the absence of fasteners in the product in the middle of the front and back handle only one shoulder show products and piping-yoke. After grinding of the neck and the armholes viverravidae the product on the front side is performed through raw shoulder seam. After processing the second shoulder seam the product sew (or sew by hand) shoulder seam piping-yoke. 
The inner edge of the piping-yoke attached to the side seams, machine stitching.