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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 19.2 connecting the bodice to the skirt and processing of the product line

 Laying the elastic tape through the waist products. Striped fabric for zatrachivaniya elastic tape cuts out for products thin fabrics, the main material, and for production of thick - thin cotton or silk fabrics in the tone of the basic material. Part of the grind stripes. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seams in the products of wool and silk fabrics rautureau and products cotton fabrics are laid out.
If elastic webbing must be laid across the waist line, the ends of her grind patch seam sanding machine zigzag stitching across the band. One the end of the tape comes after another 1.5 cm

Striped fold along the middle with the wrong side inside. One end of the strip tuck inside on 1 cm and then priorivet (Fig. 82, a). When zatrachivaniya elastic tape on waist line, but only on separate parts, both ends of the strips should be bent inward on 1 see the products, cut at the waist line, primaqiune strips of fabric under elastic tapes are produced simultaneously with pritachivajut the bodice to the skirt (Fig. 82, b), while the strip under the tape is applied from the side of the skirt, positioning sections of the strips to the sections of the skirt, and pre-primetyvajut.One end of the strip needs to go for another 0.5 - 1 cm
In products neotrazim bodice (Fig. 82,C) the strip of fabric under the elastic pritachivajut braid, applying it according to the markings, the Seam straightened out strip of fabric folded in side seam and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bend strips, simultaneously putting an elastic band. 
In order to avoid excessive thickness of the strip of fabric under the elastic band may to be single. In this case, the cut strips in the tape zatrachivaniya bends inward 0.7 cm Width poloski ready should be equal to the width of elastic tape plus 0,Z-0.4 cm
When zatrachivaniya elastic tape on waist line, but only on a separate plot, after primaqiune strips of braid is applied to the seam primaqiune strips and attach the ends to the product triple back machine stitching. The strip is bent, closing the elastic tape, and scribbled on the edge and ends at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edges of the strip.
If the model projected several parallel rows elastic tape (Fig, 82,g), a strip of cloth underneath her cut outsingle. Striped pritachivajut to the product, as stated above, then folded and filled with parallel lines, the number of which depends on number of rows elastic tape.
In the last lines cut the strips to buckle inside by 0.7 cm and scribbled on the distance 0.1 cm from the bent edge, at the same time putting an elastic band. Distance between lines must equal the width of the ribbon plus 0,2 - 0,3 see Other strips of elastic tape prodelyvat manually, the ends of their fasten manually or on the machine. 

  Laying the edge on the waist line of the product. In the articles attached at the waist, with bodice neotrazim to obtain snug adjustment to the figure at the waist lay the braid or striped fabric. Stripes instead of tape, cut out from the main material or thin cotton or silk fabric. Striped bend along the middle, folding the wrong side inside, slices and tips bends inward and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.2 cm from the bent edge (Fig. 83, a, b). The prepared strip priorivet. To the ends of the braid or sew strips of metal hook and loop.
Braid or attach a strip of double machine stitch length of 1 cm for the seams the tucks and folds strictly on the waist line (see Fig. 83, b). 
  Processing of fasteners on the waist line of the product. The clasp on the waist line can be processed by a zipper or obrazkami with loops of vetochnogo or braided cord in the side seam or the middle seam of the back. Processing the zipper in the middle seam of the back cm, chap 1,§ 14.

Processing zipper, located in the side seam (usually the left), is the following. On the site of the location of the zipper side sections of the bodice and skirt grind off. After joining the bodice to the skirt on the side sections on the site rautureau zipper, zipper primetyvajut. Nastraivanie bent side edges to the zipper perform with the help of special accessories lines at a distance prescribed by the model (Fig. 84, a).
In products with lace waist tips the braid is attached from the inside to the treated edges of the clasp. In products tight to the figure, it is the clasp to enclose valve of base material (Fig. 84, 6). Strip for valve fold along the middle face inward and grind the ends. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seams in the corners trimmed, the valve turn on the front side, straighten corners and priorivet.
Ready valve applied from the inside of the product slices to the lateral slices of the back, main the detail folded the seam felling. back and pritachivajut, paving the stitching around the seam felling back into the zipper. Slices valve overcast with the side sections.
If the area of the side seam cloth skirt one-piece (Fig. 84, C), before connecting the bodice to the skirt on the skirt make the cut and treat it, as well as the buckle, two obrazkami (see Chapter, 1, § 14). When connecting the bodice to the skirt on the plot the location of the zipper the bodice is folded with a skirt so that the allowances on the handling clasps of the bodice skirted the edges are trimmed slit on the skirt;this combines the folds of the allowances for processing closure of the bodice finished edges of the closure skirt. After joining the bodice to the skirt edge zipper pull, priorivet. Zipper primetyvajut to the edgesat the fastening area on the bodice and skirt. Nastraivanie the edges of the parts on zipper perform with the help of fixtures; spot paving at a distance equal to the width of the edge, over the treated edges of the cut the zipper on the skirt.

If the fastener is in inverted pleat of the skirt (Fig. 85,a), the design of the folds it is necessary to calculate them so that the bends in the folds and seam of the skirt matched with side seam of the bodice.
In this case, first primetyvajut clasp. When nastraivanii clasp fold pleats on the skirt are bent. Firstscribbled bodice - securing the ends of the stitching at the seam of the bodice to primaqiune skirt double reverse stitching, and then scribbled a skirt also clipping the beginning and end of the stitching at the seam primaqiune bodice to the skirt, double reverse stitching (Fig. 85, b). In products with one-sided folds(Fig. 85, C) the splice seam of the skirt panels always have in the inner fold of the pleat and, therefore, against the side seam of the bodice detail skirt always solid.
Before connecting the bodice to the skirt on the plot the location of the clasp on the skirt make the cut (Fig. 85, g) at the end triangle slices which overcast on a special machine. Slice skirt directed towards the backrest, bend inside out 0.5 - 0.7 cm and iron, positioning it under the inner fold of the other pleat, if a bend approaches the edge of the cut. When participarii the bodice to the skirt (Fig. 85, d) bodice to the skirt, right sides fold inward, skirting allowances of the bodice to the processing of the clasp fold creases and bent edge slit skirts. After joining the bodice to the skirt edge of the zipper pull.Zipper primetyvajut, having bent edge side of the back teeth around the braid, a bent edge side of the front close the zipper, the corner at the end of the section filled in from the inside out.
Nastraivanie the edges of the clasp on the braid zipper comply with using special tools, in this first scribbled Krai back and end of the section at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from bent edges (Fig. 85, e). From the front line lay on a distance of 0.8 - 1 cm from the edge of the clasp, at the same time reinforce the ends cross stitching (Fig. 85, g). Slice cut from the side of the front further fasten to the underside by tilting the main detail, stitching felling a seam around the front edge of the clasp on the braidzipper. The clasp ready priorivet.

Processing of the clasp with loops of vetochnogo or braided cord obrazkami (Fig. 86, a) with the following. Before processing closure process loops from vetochnogo or braided cord (see Chapter 1, § 13). Prepared loop applied to the front side of the front and attached to the sanding the car to the edges of the clasp on the markup, obraznymi edges to miter fasteners the line should pass at a distance of 0.1 cm from the intended line side seam to side slice. To handle zipper cut out two piping. The inner sections of obcutek treated with a seam itagiba for this bend them towards the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut on a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge. In the products of legkopolirujushchiesja tissue sections previously overcast. Piping is applied on the front facing basic details, right sides inside, and grind the edges cut. When grinding the upper side of the closure line grinding must go through the intended line of the seam, and the lower grinding hand clasp width of the seam is 0,5 - 0,7 see Piping bent in the direction of the inside of products, the seams are correct and priorivet (while making for individual orders spawn), forming an edging on the top side closure of the main part of a width of 0.1 cm
The upper side fasteners applied to the bottom, equalizing the edges, the main part bent and fix the ends of the clasp across obrazek double reverse stitching (Fig. 86, 6). 
For strength sew buttons inside edge piping the bottom of the zipper should extend beyond the edge of the buckle the value of at least 0.5 cm. the Clasp ready priorivet.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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