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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 1. General information about jerseys

Currently, in the manufacture of light clothing are widely used knitted and nonwoven fabrics.
For dresses used fabric with warp knitting machines of acetate, triacetate and nylon yarns, as well as from a combination of nylon and acetate threads and kulitnya fabric from textured polyester filaments - crimplene.
Products made of knitted fabrics, due to the elasticity easy to operate - designed for unrestricted movement. Products made of knitted fabrics containing synthetic filament, desminagem and easy to care for.
Leaf knitting stitch-bonding nonwovens find application mainly in the manufacture of clothes for children. The main drawback of these paintings is the large elongation and significant residual deformation.
In the manufacture of products should consider the extensibility of the fabric. At the stretchability of knitted fabrics are divided into three groups. For each group established a constructive allowances for free customized fit across the width of the product.
The main feature affecting the quality of the products is promovemos knit. To prevent promovemos it is recommended to use a thin needle (No. 65 - 75) and a minimal foot pressure on the material.

Knit sew costumes, dresses and outfits for recreation (Fig. 116).
The costume jacket with a Central or off-side closure, a straight or fitted shape with turn-down collar with belt or without belt.
Skirts or pants made from jacquard or press fabric, the top of the waist, and the hem of pants with cuffs or without cuffs.
Knit dresses are very diverse depending on its purpose and equipment that is knit.
Dresses knitwear can be divided into groups:
knitted, in which the shape is achieved by knitting;
knitting of jacquard and sustainable osnovanyonyj surface may be smooth, textured, tracery, Petrosani;
knitting from easy silk paintings, Petrosani and printed pattern.
Knitted dresses are often fitted silhouette; knitting dresses can be straight and fitted silhouette.

  Cutting. All the main parts cut out in shared direction. Dresses and jackets podborta can be cutting or tselnokrajnie with shelves. Collars straight cut single cut shoulder most often with the lower collars, and the round - consisting of two parts (upper and lower collar).
To increase the stability and maintain the shape of the beads, the collar and cuffs treated with grommets. The jointing parts can be cut in equity and transverse directions. As gaskets used calico, madapolam, cushioning materials, nylon impregnated; for articles of cloths crimplene - calico coated by plastic powder. When grinding parts, usually the gasket goes under the line. To maintain the shape of the product after cleaning and washing the packing materials (calico and madapolam) should have a shrinkage of not more than 2 %.Shrinkage of the cushioning material 2 % they are soaked.

  Recommended equipment. For connection details used machine Shuttle and chain stitch. Joint width of 0.4 - 1 cm, depending on the purpose and equipment used.
Stitching tucks performed on machines of type 697 CL., CL. 97 OSLM and machines "Textima" 8332 C. (GDR), the frequency of the stitches four or five 1 cm; skiving the lateral sections, the sections of the sleeves stitch sleeves to armhole cars 408 RSLM and CL. 51 CL., the frequency of the stitches to 4.5 - 5 to 1 cm stitch; buttonhole cuts parts, the machine type 51 and 51A of C. C. the PMR, for knitted fabrics from yarns kremenovich the frequency of the stitches should be 3.5 to 4.5 in 1 cm lines; suturing the bottom product and sleeves on the machine 85 C. the PMR, the frequency of the stitches to 1.7 - 3 in 1-cm lines;buttonhole loops on machines such as 225 C. and 25 KL PMZ, the frequency of stitch - 23 in 1 cm of stitching; sewing on buttons - on machines of the type 95 and 595 C. the PMR, the frequency of the stitches 5 to 8 shots in one hole.
Used cotton thread No. 60, 80; needle No. 65 - 75 for synthetic knitted fabrics with warp knitting machines and N75 - 85 for knitted fabrics from kremenovich threads.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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