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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 1. Reception and storage of tissues and prepare them for cutting

Preparing garments to be launched in production starts at the experimental shop and ends in the cutting room. In the experimental the shop along with the test patterns received from the House of fashion, fashion designers create a new model. 
If the model is prepared for production in the experimental shop and address the issues of rationing consumption of the tissues, and in special laboratories to check the properties of the tissue, first coming to the company. 
Simultaneously with the modeling and development of design set methods of processing of products, taking into account existing the enterprise equipment.
Preparatory-cutting production includes the following processes: receiving, storing and preparing fabric to cutting, calculating pieces of fabric in decks, nastilanie, the cutting of the fabric and completing the cut. Processes such as the calculation of pieces fabric decks, nastilanie, pick cut, can only be mass production of clothing and in the manufacture of semi-finished products. When the manufacture of products for individual orders the process of cutting greatly simplified. The cutting of the fabric produced by the cutter. Cutter cut out the main parts (shelves, back, sleeves, etc.), as well asthose small and medium-sized parts, the design of which is selected by the customer and finally when fitting will not change. Tissue, enabling greater shrinkage during processing, before we will open deytroyt. Cutting is produced by drawing the parts directly on the fabric or on the patterns.
The basis of operation of the cutter must be laid a single method design. 
Central experienced technical sewing lab Main control for the household service of the population in the RSFSR Council of Ministers developed "Standards of fabric consumption for women's easy dressmanufactured according to individual orders of the population", which along with consumption rates fabrics shows typical schematic layouts of patterns on dresses, -dress costumes, sundresses, blouses, gowns, dresses-coats different designs. 

§ 1. Reception and storage of tissues and prepare them for cutting

Reception of fabrics. For unloading delivered to the enterprise fabrics used horizontal and inclined conveyors. 
Tissue arriving at the company, must be Packed. There are the following types of packaging: rigid, in which the fabric is placed in wooden or plywood boxes; semi-rigid, in which the fabric is covered with matting,the pull wire or strips of iron on the wooden slats or the planks put on the top and bottom bales; soft when fabrics arrive in rolls, bales, bags, bales without boards and planks.
In hard package received fabrics cotton, linen, natural and artificial silk, pile fabrics, Packed in cartons orplastic bags. Packed in bales baize, faux fur. All the remaining tissue is Packed in semi-rigid containers. 
Adopted fabric place the stack on pallets or in containers that move inside a stacker, mobile hoists, cranes-stackers etc., and on the territory of the enterprise - storage carts, electrogrooving moving on a monorail track, and other vehicles.
When taking tissue received in boxes, bales or rolls, check the safety of the package and a lot of the arrived consignment.

Fig. 150. Check the tissue for rejection-pramerica machine 

All arrived at the enterprise materials to check the length, width, and presence of defects.
Grading of wool and smooth silk fabrics to produce mechanized rejection-promercy machines with push-button control (Fig. 150). The speed of movement of the wool and silk fabrics in the machine - 15 m/min, cotton fabrics - 20 m/min For better detection fabric defects machine put the screen to the window. To conduct quality control were in the evening, the screen of the machine light fluorescent lamps. Each defect mark with chalk on the front side and inside out, or with colored thread. 
To measure the length and width of fabric used premaratne tables.
To measure the width of the fabric at the end of the table reinforce the tape. All the data recorded in the passport of the piece. 
In a small company where there is no raspalovachka machine, fabric browsing on the table simultaneously with the soundings.
Storage of tissues. Depending on the kind of fabric and range manufactured products are different forms of storage razrabotannoi tissue. So, for some enterprises, a new type after sorting and measuring of fabric sorted by width and SKU and respectively laid out on the containers. Then use hoists and of stacker cranes container with a cloth placed in a sectional shelving. For rational use of fabric in the calculation of the decks being used computing machine. After calculating the containertissue is removed from the rack and served in production.

Storage razrabotannoi fabric used racks (Fig. 151, a). Loading and unloading of the racks is done by the cart a lifting platform. In addition, the fabric store to "Christmas tree" racks, while using the stacker crane.
Central research Institute of clothing industry developed Elevator storage tissue (Fig. 151, b), in which the loading and unloading fabrics are made automatically from the control panels. This method machines the hard work and allows you to quickly find the right the pieces of fabric included in the calculation.
Unpacked the cloth should stored in conditions that ensure preservation of the dust, excessive of dryness or moisture, moths, rodents and contamination. Normal temperature fabric storage during the cold period of year 16 - 20 'C and a relative humidity above 75 %. In warm periods the temperature in the room must exceed the outside temperature by more than 3'C. 
  Manufacturer obmalloc and stencils. To improve the quality of cut and a more economical use of fabric recommended cutting fabric for patterns. In the Studio basic patterns get of models and special laboratories.
In the manufacture of semi-finished cutting of products produced on the patterns.
In mass production, and also in the cutting of semi-finished products at the same time cut out a few paintings. Canvases stacked one on another, form deck, the height of which depends on the calculation the number of blades and thickness of fabrics. The number of cloths in the flooring in mass production fluctuates - when cutting fabrics for sale women's and children's clothing from 40 to 50 - silk; 50 - 60 -staple; 100 - 120 - cotton. When cutting confectii and semi-finished products in the individual production number of blades in the deckmuch less. The excess number of paintings, specified in standards, leads to a deterioration in the quality of cut. In this case, the details of the upper and lower webs of the flooring will have different sizes.
On top of the flooring impose a canvas on which chalk marked contours the parts of the product. This painting is called osmeloski. In mass manufacture oblavka doing in the preparatory or cutting shopaccording to the task that shows the model, size and length (growth) products osmeloski length and its width, the type of tissue (hair, figure). Omelusik lays out patterns on the upper canvas of the deck, observing specifications.
After applying osmeloski on flooring it cut together with osmeloski. In addition obolonok, for drawing the outline details of the products on the top cloth flooring applied the stencils. 
The stencil is called canvas oilcloth or other material on which small holes marked the contour lines of the patterns of the products. Through these holes with chalk powder or talc is applied to line patterns on the fabric. The use of stencils for drawing the outline of the details of the products on the top the fabric of the flooring 10 to 15 times faster markup of the lines of patterns onto fabric for manual obmalloc.
Stencils used where the range of products constant, the width of the tissues without major deviations.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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