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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 20. Handle the bottom of the dresses and blouses

 Omelka and cutting the bottom. Product turn inside out, laid out on the table, bending in the middle front and back, combined the side seams, tucks, seams connect the bodice to the skirt on the right and on the left side of the product. Then, noting the length of the product, support templates chalk outline of the line cutting and bending the bottom. The excess tissue pruned. 
The products thick fabric, side seams and seams connect the parts of the panels of the skirt netscout on the distance from the bottom; equal the width of the hem plus 2 - 4 cm, and the seams in the area from the bottom to the notch rautureau. 

  Processing of bottom sanding machine. For products made of cotton and linen fabrics hem dresses and blouses process for sanding machine (Fig. 87, a) with fixture, to ensure a certain width of bending the bottom. When processing effort without fit the bottom of the bend along the line towards the back cut the bottom of the inside bends of 0.7 - 1 cm and zastrugivajut in the distance 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent edge. When processing bottom sanding machine with device line of bending not scheduled.
The bottom extended down dresses and blouses that are worn under the skirt, is treated sanding machine for thin joint itagiba with a shut cut two lines or using special tools - switch (Fig. 87, b). The width of the seam in the finished form of 0.2-0.3 cm. 
  handle the bottom of the blouse on a special machine. Slice the bottom of the blouse bend towards the inside of 0.5-0.7 cm, at the manufacture of products for individual orders bent edge iron. Then bent edge zastrugivajut on a special machine (Fig. 87, a). Excess fabric around the stitch-trimmed.
  Processing of bottom in products from heavy fabrics. In the products of fine wool and silk legkopolirujushchiesja tissue slice the bottom of the overcast on a special machine, then bend to the sidethe inside on the planned line, that bends inside and zametyvayut. 
Products in the straight line hem zametyvayut one line. 
In the articles, slightly expanded downwards, the bottom zametyvayut two lines: first at a distance of 1 cm from the fold of the hem and attach the second bent edge.
In products extended downwards and having allowance for ACC, the bottom zametyvayut three lines: first, bends the cut zametyvayut it at a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold, and then tuck your bottom line and ACC zametyvayut at a distance of 1 cm from the fold of the hem and the last line attach the bent edge.
Swept the bottom hem on special blindstitch machine. Products in straight line allowed to sew the hem on a special machine without prior zamatyvala. In the manufacture according to individual orders swept the region manually sew hidden stitches (Fig. 87,g), invisible from the front side. Products of thick wool fabric, made of thick cotton (corduroy-corduroy and velvet-ribbed), and also in skirts pleats, pleated and ripple cut bottom after almalki and trim parts overcast on a special machine. Then the bottom bend towards the inside on the planned line and sutured to the blindstitch machine without bending edges inside (Fig. 87, d).
Products of thick legkopolirujushchiesja tissue groups high cut bottom, it is recommended to turn over (Fig. 87, e) or process with special tape (Fig. 87 g).
Edging take a strip of thin silk cloth, place it on the front side -articles of equating sections, and pritachivajut at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from slices. Band round the suture, forming piping. Kant secured a place in the seam primaqiune strips. Then the bottom bend towards the inside in the planned line, zametyvayut and sutured on a special machine hidden manually stitch or stitches invisible from the front side.
When treatment of the slice with braid it was applied to the front side of the allowance for ACC with a stop 0.7-1 cm (depending on the tape width) and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge of the braid. Then the bottom products bend towards the inside on the planned line, and zametyvayut sew on a special machine hidden stitches or manually, thread zamatyvala removed. Treated hem priorivet. 

  Handle the bottom of the blouses stitched belt (Fig. 88, a). Before connecting the belt with the blouse at the bottom of the blouse should be treated tucks or Assembly. Treatment tucks and assemblies outlined in Chapter 1, § 4 and 6. 
If the belt on the model closed, his bend across in the middle and fold face inside. Slices call and grind off the ends of the belt. Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm Seam lay the belt, turn on the front side, fold along the in the middle of the underside and inside priorivet.
If the belt has model the fastener, the processing belt is the same as processing a stitched cuffs in the sleeves (see Chapter 1, § 18). In the side seam of a blouse may be processed section for the continuation of the seam. Processing of fasteners, located on the continuation of the seam, are set out in Chapter 1,§ 8.
The belt is put on the underside of the product, lining down and pritachivajut from blouses, evenly distributing the Assembly and combining of the control notch.
Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm. folded Belt, the seam is directed toward the belt, cut the belt to buckle at 0.5 - 0.7 cm and scribbled on the distance of 0.1 cm from the bent region. The stitching from the inside of the blouse should be held by key parts at a distance of 0.1 cm from the seam protecive belt (Fig. 88, 6). 
In the manufacture of woolen fabrics at individual orders are allowed to participate zone, and slice of podmotsa bend and hem blind stitch a hidden stitch, closing the seam protecive belt (Fig. 88,).



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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