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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 2.2 the Technology of manufacturing knitted fabrics

 Treatment collars. Collars can be obrechennyi by flying away with a single cut shoulder or lower neck.
Turning collars perform as well as products from the tissues. In the products of knitted fabric crimplene seam stitching around the collar scribbled on the bottom collar. The connection of the collar with the neckperform as in products from the tissues. When setting the collar the neck on the machine chain stitch seam vrachevanie collar (with pads without pads) scribbled on the neck line, parallel seam vrachevanie at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 cm from the edge. In to avoid stretching of the neck during the setting of the collar from the the inside products under the line enclose the braid.

If the collar is treated with a lining of polyamide impregnated, are not having an adhesive ability, the upper collar ends cut out wider lower by 0.8 - 1 cm on each side. In this case, after grinding of the ends of the collar (Fig. 119, a, b) (width of the seam 0.7 cm) the upper collar straightened out on the bottom. Allowance of the upper collar the ends are distributed symmetrically, the joints, grinding of the ends folded in side of the mid-collar or spread (rautureau) and grind the collar on the left. Slice departure strip collar is applied to seamgrinding the collar on the departure side of the upper collar, positioning it near a line of grinding or closing line 0.1 - 0.2 cm, and scribbled at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the edge of the strip(Fig. 119,). Turn the collar on the front side, a lining inside collar and seams processing and departure ends of the collar spread, collar priorivet. Fasten the top collar with the bottom machine line, positioning it on a rack at a distance of 0.4 - 0.5 cm from the line inflection (Fig. 119, g).
When connecting the bottom of the collar the neck patch seam edge of the lower collar round slices strip and fixed machine stitch 0.5 cm from the edge. During the processing of a collar without the lining the splice seam of the collar mouth lay the braid on the part of the basic product. 
If collar treated with the gasket, the connection of the collar with the neck done without laying the braid on the collar, the gasket collar have to get into the seam of the connection of the lower collar neck or under the line of felling the top of the collar.
  Treatment of the neck in the products without a collar. Treatment of the neck are performed obrazkami or bound seam single or double-folded strip of the main or as decorative material. 
Neck treated with obrazkami with gasket and without gasket. 
Treatment of the neck facing without pulling perform similar processing of tissues.
During processing of the neck facing with a lining of non-woven material the facing applied to the front side of the product face down, and gasket - inside out simultaneously with the grinding of the neck produce primaqiune strip. The processing performed from the piping. Width seam is 0,5 - 0,7 cm 
In order to avoid tightening the joint in several places netscout, facing the turn in the direction opposite the product, the seam allowance folded to the side piping and scribbled on the facing on a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the seam stitching around the neck.
The inner edge of obcutek attached to the shoulder seams. 
During processing of the neck facing without laying in products from of materials subjected to tension, it is necessary to lay the braid (if it is stipulated in technical description). 
Processing neck edging seam operate single and double folded binding of basic or finishing of fabric or braid. 
Internal cut single bakey overcast on a special machine (Fig. 119, d).
Wide piping is folded in half with wrong side inside. Fold or single bake is applied to the front side of the product stack the slices and pritachivajut to the product seam whose width depends on the width of Kant(0,3 - 0,b cm).
In the products of the fabric crimplene from the back of the neck lay the braid (if it is stipulated in technical description). Pricechannel binding tightly round the seam, forming a smooth edge. Bake turn inside out products, skirting and seam forming edge. Kant reinforce the stitching on the front side in seam primaqiune bakey or a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the line of her primaqiune. 
  Treatment of openings in products of sleeveless. The treatment of the armholes fulfill obrazkami, single or double folded wood stains similar to the treatment of the neck in the products without collar. 
  Treatment of bottom of sleeves. The bottom of sleeves processed cuff, seam itagiba or edging stitch. 
During the processing of the bottom of the sleeves with allowance for ACC cut the bottom of the sleevesovercast on a special machine type 51 C. PMZ. Then tuck in the planned line file and the machine type 85 CL. PMZ poorly tightened stitches. 
In the products of knitted fabrics with warp knitting machines bottom of sleeves is allowed to handle the seam bodybu closed cut. The amount of bending the bottom in finished form should be at least 2 cm.
Handle the bottom of the sleeves cuffs next. Slit sleeve handle a strip of core material single or double folded. 
Single stripe pritachivajut and scribbled the machine type 697 97 CL. or CL. OSL. 
Fold the strip pritachivajut to the sleeve at the cut lines on the car type 51 C. PMZ, superimposing a strip on the front side of the sleeve. 
When the location of the incision in the continuation of the seam of the sleeve sections of the allowances for processing fasteners overcast.
Cuff can be treated with pads and without pads. When the treatment of bottom of sleeves banded cuffs without pads connection cuffs with the sleeves is performed on machine type 408 RSLM or CL. 51 CL. PMZ;cuffs with grommets connect with sleeves also and on the car Shuttle stitch similar to the processing of textiles. 
  Connection sleeveless arm openings. In dresses, blouses, jackets from malorastvorima canvases sleeves connect with arm openings on the machine type 408 RSL CL., CL. 51 PMZ or machine type 697 cells. OSLM with the laying of the braid to okatan sleeves.
In the products of highly stretchable cloths sleeves stachivaya by car 408 C. RSLM, 51 PMZ class or type 697 cells. OSLM with the laying of the braid for the armhole. 
  Handle the bottom of the products. The bottom of the product modify by car type 85 CL. PMZ poorly tightened stitches. 
For products made of fabrics with warp knitting machines hem dresses are treated seam bodybu closed cut or open cut with prior a buttonhole. 
In the products of kremenovich paintings NCDs products treated with suture bodybu open cut with prior a buttonhole him.
The width of the allowance for ACC can be from 2.5 to 5 cm depending on model (specified in the technical description). 
The bottom products can be handled edging seam similar to the processing of the neck. 
  Processing loops and sewing on buttons. Depending on the model of the loop can be processed in equity or transverse direction. 
Loop overcast on the car is 225 C. (with frame thread) or by car 25 CL. PMZ (with single or double buttonhole). 
If the buttonhole on the machine 25 CL. one time, be sure to lay the cord or twisted yarn, braid or fabric.
Buttons to fasten at the front sew on the machine PMZ 595 CL. end-to-end stitches (together with podborany, obrazkami or laying ribbon or fabric); flat buttons on the machine PMZ class 95. 
Finishing sew buttons without stand. 
  Wet-heat treatment of products. 
Wet-heat treatment of parts and finished products perform iron or on the press. Modes heat-wet processing of knitted paintings are given in table. 7.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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