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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 2. Technical specifications for manufacture and layout of patterns on fabric

Patterns are made in the Homes of models and laboratories. When you receive patterns it is necessary to check their compliance with the dimensions specified in technical terms in the section "Table of measures". Technical terms should to be applied included with the patterns.
On the basis of the specified patterns-standards at the enterprises produce working patterns. At work the curves indicate model number, size, fullness, length products (growth) and the name of the parts and cause the line of direction of the warp and weft, the line of permissible deviations and extensions on all edges and corners put the mark (triangular stamp). After verification is done, the patterns on all the details stamped "Checked".
In the manufacture of templates used special equipment: for cutting blanks from rolled patternscardboard, temporary bonding multiple pieces in a pack simultaneous cutting of multiple layers of patterns, striking contours, punching in the patterns of openings of various configurations of the marking sectionspatterns. 
Ready patterns stored on a single and bunk brackets. Automatic devices allow you to trigger a set of patterns to the place of their use and ensure their preservation.
Patterns, in production, check at least twice a month for patterns, standards and report card measures. Working patterns that are in the production, a deviation from the patterns-the standards are not more +-0,1 cm on each slice. Before comparing working patterns with patterns-standards patterns-the standards should be checked on the report card measures as possible inaccuracies in the size of the patterns-standards due to shrinkage of the cardboard. After check for the list of patterns put the stamp "Checked" and indicate the date check.
In the sewing shop should be utility templates to perform such work as podolka pockets, namely loops, omelka the hem, collar, etc. 
With the layout of patterns on fabric it is necessary to consider the direction of the pile, fleece, fabric the direction of warp and weft, permitted extensions and deviations from patterns to cut parts. 
Pile on the fabrics and on the fabrics, having different shade in different directions, all parts of the product (for with the exception of obrazek and bottom of the collar) cut out, with patterns in one direction follows.
On pile fabrics, such plush, polyborate, velvet cord, velvet-hem, patterns stack so that pile was directed up from the bottom of the product. In this the event fabric product has a matte finish. Pile textured plush, nothaving a certain direction may be directed from the bottom up products, and top-down, with details on the fabric are laid out in one direction.
In the products of tissue-type bike with a bright a strong fleece and thin cotton fabrics such as clothpioneering, melange, vigonovo, suede, velveton, the pile should be directed from the top down. 
On fabrics with a slightly pronounced fleece, and also on fabrics, giving a different hue in different areas, all the details of one product are laid in the same direction. 
On fabrics, not having a fleece or shade, dyed, striped fabrics and the cell with the symmetric arrangement of figure patterns can be decomposed in opposite directions.
On fabrics with a large pattern all parts are laid out so that the right and left sides of the product for the pattern was symmetrical, while drawing on important parts needs to be saved. 
In printed fabrics with very large and rare figure front and back are cut out so that their means coincide with the center of the main figure. On fabrics in a large pea in the middle of the back and front must pass through the center of the pea; on the fabric in stripes mid all details must coincide with the middle of the Central strip.
On fabrics striped and plaid with asymmetric patterns all the patterns of each product lay in one direction; while simultaneously cutting out two products of these fabrics are parts of the same product can be located in one direction and other parts in the reverse direction. 
On fabrics in stripes or checks with the width of the strip or the cells not more than 0.5 cm the details are laid out without regard to the subsequent adjustment of the strips or cells.
If the fabric is striped or plaid width of the strip cells or more than 0.5 cm, items are laid out taking into account the subsequent adjustment of the strips or cells (adjustment of parts according to the figure determined on the model of the product). For the fit of the fabric pattern in the layout patterns should provide allowance to the extent of the repeat pattern depending on the fabric. 
Allowed to arrange the details without allowances to fit the picture on the side sections of the bodice, if it is not a feature of the models by cross-section sleeves, if they are from one piece.
When laying in a layout details sleeveless pattern customize on the bottom if the sleeves are short, or the crown, if the sleeves are long. 
Of fabric in a longitudinal strip allowed to find a pair of items (shelves, back seamed in the middle) so that the repeat pattern on the back or front in ready the form was saved.
All items must be cut out with minimal deviations in the cuts from patterns, namely at the shoulder sections, sections the armholes, okatov sleeves, neck deviations from templates shall not exceed +-0,1 cm; on the side of cut front and backless blouses and skirts, lateral and the lower sections of the sleeves the deviations from templates shall not exceed 0.2 cm; the inner sections of podborov, bottom of blouse, bodice and skirt dresses deviations from the curves shall not exceed +-0,3 cm; variations in the location and the value of nasechek should not exceed +-0,1 see
Stroke patterns (if the manufacture of the pickup and podolki details on the flooring) is performed finelysharpened chalk or pencil with the following conditions: the thickness of the line stroke should be no more than 0.1 cm; stroke line needs to coincide with the contour curves; between the cut parts having at the cutting the permissible deviations in sections of not more than 0.1 cm, with the layout of the patterns must be a gap (distance between patterns) of 0.1 - 0.2, see





P R and m e CH and n and I: 1. With the layout of patterns on fabric with a pattern in stripes or checks deviations from the normal equity direction allowed.
2. To determine deflection, mm must multiply the length of the part common thread by a set percentage and to divide by 100. 


If raskrashennoj distributed over the bottom of the skirt is uneven, the direction of the warp threads is determined by the designer. 
Lay out patterns and cut out parts of the product in accordance with specifications. 
In table. 8 shows the specifications for the layout patterns and cut details of dresses, blouses, jackets and other products from petievich tissues.
In technical terms, the arrangement of the individual parts relative to the warp and the pattern on the fabric given for the most common models products. Individual parts of the product in accordance with the technical descriptions of models are cut at an angle to the warp threads. Products narrow fabric cutting according to the MOUTH or the technical descriptions model.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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