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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 3, § 4, § 5, § 6

§ 3. The processing sequence of a pants suit 

Processing pantsuits can be divided into two main stages: processing of a jacket, blouse, vest and processing pants. 
  Processing of a jacket, blouse, vest. Treatment tucks, cuts, stitches, reliefs, folds, pockets, collars,collar, sleeves and connecting the sleeves with the armholes in jackets and blouses perform the same way as in the processing of similar parts and components in dresses and blouses. 
Treatment of trousers. Technological the processing sequence of the trousers depends on the design of the product. In as a model can be taken in the following sequence:
check the details of the cut, a refinement of Darts, Princess seams, zippers, nasechek, etc.; 
processing of slices; 
processing tucks, pleats, Princess seams, connection parts of the halves of the trousers; 
the processing of the clasp side and stepping seams; 
treatment of NCDs; 
processing upper edge; 
trim trousers.
But in each case, the process sequence is defined specifically depending on the number of parts and the shape of the product. For example, the clasp can be processed before stitching the side slices or after grinding, depending on the type of fastener. The zipper handle after connection of the halves of the trousers and the clasp in seams before stitching the slices. The bottom of the pants process after connection panels. 

§ 4. Preparation of the details of the cut of the pants by sewing

Before you start making pants, you should be familiar with a description of the external appearance of the product specified in the technical conditions (TU) with mass production of clothes, or with records and sketches in receipts in the manufacture of clothing to order. Check produced in the following sequence: check the details of the cut; the correctness of cutting on the main and weft threads, pattern; fabric defects on the details. 

In Fig. 10З the direction of the warp threads on the details of the cut are shown by arrows.
The front and rear halves of the pants, the warp yarn must undergo parallel to the line joining the mid point of the halves of the pants width the hem and knee level. A deviation from normal directions of warp for fabrics without a pattern on the front halves -3 % on the rear halves - 4 %. For fabrics with stripes orcell of deviation is not allowed. When cutting of the tissue with medium and large pronounced pattern of horizontal stripes pattern side seams must match.
The upper edge of the side pockets come no closer than 5 cm from the top of the cut halves. 
When cutting the rear halves of the pants allowed extension. Width extension line of the middle seam up to 7 cm line Length primaqiune to 20 see the figure on the extensions should match the pattern on the main the details of the pants. 
When cutting trousers of cotton fabrics allowed extension at the top of the middle seam to tuck, the widthmiddle seam up to 7 cm, and the tuck - up to 3 cm
When cutting products by individual orders for the back half of the pants make additional allowances: stepping slices, 2 - 3 cm, to the middle slice at the top - 2 - 3 cm, below 1 cm 
In the patch pockets of the warp threads should to coincide with the warp threads of the halves of the trousers on which they are located. A deviation from the normal direction of the warp threads in depending on the permissible deviations when cutting the halves of trousers.
In zone of the warp threads shall be parallel with the upper cut of the pants. In trousers from dyed fabrics allowed the shearing zone and the weft yarn. A deviation from the warp for fabrics without drawing and illustration (2 %).
In obtachka and valances warp should be held parallel to the sections of the halves of the trousers to which they pritachivajut. A deviation from the normal direction of the thread basis for fabrics without a pattern in valances -10 %, obtachka -3 %. 

§ 5. Initial treatment of the front and rear halves of the pants

Extensions to the rear halves of the pants pritachivajut the seam width of 1.2 - 1.5 cm, stitches rautureau, sometimes rasstraivaet from two parties on distance of 0.1 cm from the seam connection (depending on fabric). 
Side stepping and cuts to the front and rear halves of the pants previously overcast on a special machine. 
Tuck the halves of the pants sew along the planned lines, reducing place to tuck end. The fold front detailinside on the middle line.
Tuck in the front halves turning into soft folds, sew 3 - 4 cm from upper edge of pants or smatyvay. Seams folded and iron inside out in the side cut or in the direction of the middle of the front depending on model. 

§ 6. Pocketing 

False the pockets are treated the same way as described in Chapter 1, § 12. Welt the pockets are treated the same way as described in Chapter 1, § 10.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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