Fig. 114. The dress with cap sleeves 

In products light clothing is widely used cap sleeves of different lengths: short, long, 3/4 length and 7/8 (Fig. 114). One of the features of products with cap sleeves is that the front of the sleeve is cut together with the shelf (in front), and the elbow - together with back. The sleeve has an outer (middle) seam and internal (lower).
The outer seam is a continuation of the shoulder seam, and the inner - side of the seam.

For free movement of the hands in the side seams of the product and the bottom seams of the sleevesstachivaya gussets. The gusset can be of different shape and sizes (Fig. 115). 
Products light clothing can be sleeved the combined cut. In this case, the sleeves from the front (shelves) can be set, and back - cap or reglan and Vice versa.
In the products of woolen fabrics for the best hand fit front and second halves of the sleeve are subjected to wet-heat treatment. Before fold along the middle front inside, stack the slices and pull the top sections on the site the transition shoulder portion of the sleeve. The inner (lower) sections of the sleeve wait, the iron must not go beyond the middle of this half sleeves. Then, the front halves of the sleeves bend in half in equity direction and bend at the elbow storevault for obtaining a concave line.
The seatback also folded along the middle face inside, stack the slices, pull the top sections on the phase transition the shoulder part of the sleeve, the portion of the humerus of the cut storevault for obtain a convexity to fit the shoulder blades. Then the half sleeves the back bend in half at the joint direction and bend at the level of elbow pulls, and slices of storevault for receiving a protuberance on fit the elbow. Internal (bottom) cross sections of the sleeve of the back side can be designed with elbow tuck. In this case, the valuestivania save. In products without gussets retard plots transition the domestic cut the sleeves in the side sections of the product.
Size stygiana and pulling indicated in the technical specifications (TU), and in the custom orders are determined by the cutter. This the value depends mainly on the product structure, fabric structures and the figure of the customer.
After processing of the basic details in front and back fold, right sides inside, call the upper sections andmanufacture according to individual orders smatyvay back direct a running stitch, combining marks on sections of the front and backless. Smachivanie performed on the left half of the product from the bottom of the sleeves up to the neck, on the right side from the neck to the cuffs. When smachivanie make the landing back into the same areas as when the connection of the shoulder sections in products with vtachnoy sleeves. Flatlock perform from the front.
In mass production stitching execute nadechka without prior smachivaniya. Joint width, 1,2 - 1.5 cm Thread smachivaniya removed. Seams rautureau in two or three steps: first shoulder-area, then the area of the outer seam of the sleeves and the plot the transition from shoulder to sleeve. Sections the seam can be press on one side or resutured depending on the model.
The side sections front and back and the lower sections of the sleeves to connect different sequence depending on design cap sleeves. In products with sleeves without gussets in front with back fold frontsides inside, the side sections of the product and the lower sections of the sleeves when manufacture according to individual orders smatyvay back manually straight stitches. When smachivanie cut the sleeves from the back pokazyvaut on the part of the elbow. Smachivanie the right side of the products are from the bottom of the sleeve up to the top of the side seam, and then smatyvay sideslices from the top down. Flatlock perform from the front.
In mass production, the grinding is carried out without prior smachivaniya. Seam width of 1.2 - 1.5 cm Seams rautureau or iron in according to the model.
In the products with gussets are first in undercuts for gussets from the front and back from the inside pritachivajut the corners of the fabric the shape of the gusset (see Chapter 1, § 8). Then stachivaya gussets, jointing edges with the side sections of the front and lower sections of the sleeves beforeudachnymi along with the gussets folded with a back facial sides inside, stack the slices and grind in front with the back on the side sections and the lower sections of the sleeves, simultaneously vracheva cornersgussets from the back.
In products with cutting barrels turning into the Gore, first connect the detachable barrel with front and the lower sections of the sleeves from the front, and then before with pricecanada the barrels connect with a backrest along the side and bottom sections of the sleeves. 
Bottom of sleeves are treated the same as products with vtachnoy sleeves.