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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 3. Parts cut dresses

 Name of the details of the cutThe kit parts cut includes a large number of parts, which is not constant and varies depending on the model. For example, in front of dresses can be one piece or consist of two or three parts, sleeves - one-piece and double seam, etc.
For the manufacture of dresses, shown in Fig. 3, cut out the following parts: rack - two, back one, sleeve two, the front panel skirt - single, rear panel skirts in two parts - two (can be solid), upper collar - one, the lower collar - one (maybe two parts), padbolt two cuff - two patch pocket - one belt - one.
Depending on the model, instead of shelves can be just one part before; the backrest can be with a seam down the middle; front and back can be with a single cut shoulder panels of the skirt; the sleeve may consist of two parts, and the collar may be one piece (lower and upper together), etc.

  the name of the lines and sections of details of the cut. In the simulation, design and technology of apparel production covered by the common names of the cuts and lines parts cut.
  Shelf (see Fig. 3, a) has the following names construction lines, sections and points: cut depth - 8, a ledge depth - 7, point of ledge - 6, the cut of the neck - 5, shoulder cut - 4, arm - 3, side cut - 1, the upper tuck - 2, cut the hem or the cut of the waist 11, the tuck from the edge of the waist - 10, line mid-front - 9.
  The backrest (see Fig. 3, b) has the following names construction lines, sections and points: mid-back - 1, cut neck backless a - 2, slice - 3, the shoulder tuck - 4, arm - 5, side slice - 6 slice or bottom slice waist - 7, tuck cut from the waist 8.
  Sleeve (see Fig. 3) has the following construction lines: front cut - 3, cut okata - 2, elbow slice - 1, slice-bottom - 4.
  The front panel of the skirt (see Fig. 3, g) has the following construction lines: side slice - 1, slice waist - 2, Darts from waist cut - 3, the middle of the front cloth - 4, cut of the bottom - 5.
  The rear panel of the skirt (see Fig. 3, d) has the following construction lines: lateral cut 5 cut waist - 4, tucks from waist cut - 3, the middle of the rear cloth - 1, bend, or cut back the cloth or the inner bend of unilateral pleats a - 2, a slice of down - b.
  Podbot (see Fig. 3, e) has the following construction lines: the outer cut - 1, apex - 3, the cross section of the neck - 2 inner cut - 4, cut of the bottom - 5.
  Lower and upper collar (see Fig. 3, g) are called constructive lines and slices: the middle of the collar 1, the cross section of the departure - 2, end - 3, the cross section of the rack - 4.

  Preparation of cut parts for sewing. In mass production of clothing in a single deck may be 40 paintings and more. In order not to confuse parts cut in the process of processing and assembling them on all the details from the inside with a pencil write the serial number of the product or sew coupons. Coupons sew from the front side parts on emergency vehicles. Cut product should consist of parts with the same numbers.
Before you start making products, you need to read the documentation, technical conditions (TU) in the mass production of clothing and records and sketches in the receipt - when an individual making clothes.
The test details of the cut produce in such sequence. First check the availability of parts cut, then the correctness of cutting on the main and weft threads, the pattern, the pile and the presence of fabric defects.
The correct nesting check by overlaying the templates on the relevant details and stroke their finely honed chalk (thickness of lines should not exceed 0.1 cm). The inner side of the chalk stroke must coincide with the contours of the patterns. At the same time put all the patterns of marks (the notch). The notch, make the tips of sharp scissors, the depth of the notch should not exceed 0.5 cm.
When checking the details of the cut on the patterns allowed the following variations in slices: the slices at the shoulder, armholes, sleeves Oktam +-0,1 cm; in the side sections and side shelves, and front of the elbow sections of the sleeves, the sections of the collars, patch pockets +-0,1 - 0,2 cm; on the bottom shelves and back, upper and lower halves of the sleeves +-0,3 cm; nasechek move relative to each other should not exceed +-0,2 see
Simultaneously checking cut patterns in the support plan the location of pockets, tucks, loops and other lines.

  Specifications for cut parts. All items must be cut according to the following specifications for the cutting.
In the front, cutting or potrebnom waist, consisting of one part, the warp yarn shall be parallel with the line drawn down the middle part (see Fig. 3, a). A deviation from the normal direction of the warp threads for dyed fabrics and for fabrics with a non-directional pattern of 1%, for fabrics with stripes or a cage deviations are not allowed.
Amount of deviation from the main or weft yarn is determined depending on part length. For example, the length of the part is 50 cm Hence, the magnitude of the deviation from the main thread at the bottom will be 50 x 0.01 = 0.5 cm.
In the shelves warp yarn must run along the shelves, parallel to the line of the mid. A deviation from the normal direction of the warp threads for dyed fabrics and for fabrics with a non-directional pattern of 1 %, for fabrics with stripes or a cage deviations are not allowed.
In the shelves, consisting of two parts, the warp threads in the lateral parts must match the warp threads in the front.
In the back (see Fig. 3, b) cutting or neotrazimoi waist, consisting of one part, the warp yarn shall be parallel with the line drawn down the middle part. A deviation from the normal direction of the warp threads for dyed fabrics and for fabrics with a non-directional pattern is 2%, for fabrics with stripes or a cage deviations are not allowed.
In the back, consisting of two or three parts, the warp yarn in the middle part shall be parallel with the line drawn down the middle part and the side parts parallel with the warp threads in the middle part.
In the skirt duhovnoi, polycles and flared (see Fig. 3, g, d) warp yarn shall be parallel with the line drawn down the middle part. In skirts, consisting of several parts, the warp yarn shall be parallel with the line drawn down the middle of each part of the skirt. If raskrashennoj distributed over the bottom of the skirt is uneven, the direction of the warp threads is determined by the designer of the model. A deviation from the normal direction of the warp threads for the fabrics dyed with non-directional, or figure - 3 %, for fabrics with a stripe pattern and the cell deviations are not allowed.
Inthe sleeves (see Fig. 3), consisting of one part, the warp yarn should be held parallel to the line connecting the upper and lower points of the front slice. A deviation from the normal direction of the warp threads for one-piece sleeve and the upper halves of the double seam sleeves for dyed fabrics and fabrics with non-directional pattern is 2 %, for fabrics with stripes or a cage deviations are not allowed, for the lower half - dyed fabrics - 3 %, for fabrics with stripes or a cage deviations are not allowed.
In cuffs (see Fig. 3, h) a stitched warp threads are parallel lines drawn down the middle part, and fold-over cuffs warp must match the direction of the warp threads on the sleeve. A deviation from the normal direction of the warp threads for dyed fabrics and for fabrics with a non-directional pattern only banded cuffs - 2 %, other cuffs and patterned fabrics in stripes or checkered deviations are not allowed.
In the collar (see Fig. 3, W) warp or weft should be parallel with the straight line connecting the ends of the flight. A deviation from the warp only to dyed fabrics and fabrics with non-directional pattern - 1 %.
In collars, tselnokrajnie with podborany, the warp yarn should be held at a 45° angle to the midline of the collar. Permitted deviation for dyed fabrics - 5 %.
In the lower collar warp yarn must coincide with the direction of the warp threads in the collar. A deviation from the normal direction to dyed fabrics and non-directional pattern - 3 %, for fabrics with stripes or a cage deviations are not allowed.
In podborta (see Fig. 3, e) the warp yarn shall be parallel with the outer edge of podborov. Permitted deviation for dyed and non-directional print fabrics - 3%, for fabrics with stripes or a cage deviations are not allowed.
In the zone (see Fig. 3) warp yarn shall be parallel with the line drawn down the middle part. Permitted deviation for dyed fabrics and for fabrics with a non-directional pattern of 1 %, for fabrics with stripes or a cage deviations are not allowed.
In patch pocket (see Fig. 3) warp yarn shall be parallel with the line drawn down the middle part. Permitted deviation for dyed fabrics and for fabrics with a non-directional pattern of 1 %, for fabrics with stripes or a cage deviations are not allowed.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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