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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 4. Nastilanie and cutting fabric


Fig. 154. Transportation of the tissue in the cutting shop 

  Nastilanie tissue. Designed for cutting fabric cutting served on site. Submission rolls on the cutting area is included in the laying out is performed by trucks with lift platform, mobile mnogogrannyj bracketsmobile hoists etc. (Fig. 154). 
For laying out fabric use tables with a length of 8 - 10 m and the width for narrow fabrics - 1,2 - 1,25 m wide and 1,65 - 1.7 m Deck tables in bulk the production is equipped with the following special accessories: 
-rulers for cutting and clamping one end of the deck;
-the limiting range for clamping the second end of the deck, which is installed along the length of the deck; 
rotating a roller on the first end of the table to pull the fabric along the table; 
the brackets for placing the metal rod on which is wound a piece of cloth; 
-a ruler with centimeter tick marks along the table to mark the length of the deck. 
Light fabric lay on the mechanized spreading of rolls.
Under the new policy nastilanie tissue pre - cut off the cloth of a given length and lay their machine. Usemachines and mechanisms provides the opportunity to lay the fabric without stretching. 
High quality to cut out parts. does not require a subsequent clarification is achieved by the use of a range of new machines: primerochnoi, winding-cutting and spreading machine with automatic alignment of the edge. 
To conserve fabric, improving the quality of products when nastilanie following rules should be observed:

1. The cutting table must be marked in accordance with the length of the flooring, all flooring install line. 
2. You have to keep the height of the deck, which is different for different tissues and is determined by the number of paintings. 
3. The edges of fabric in all the paintings from one side of the flooring must match. 
4. Fabric with a pile should have the same direction of the NAP in all the paintings of the flooring. 
5. Fabric with a directional pattern should be put in flooring to the figure of one blade coincides with the pattern of another fabric.
6. If you need to put in the same flooring, fabric of different colors, you must first lay the fabric with one color and then another. 
7. Covered with fabric should lie flat, without bending and tension, loose, but without wrinkles and creases. 
8. The trim line of cloths should be flat and perpendicular to the edge. 
9. Areas of the fabric having a textile. defects, cut out and cut out separately. 

There are three ways of the arrangement of paintings in the deck: sgib, razvorot "face down", razvorot "face to face".
Nastilanie sgib used in the cutting of products for individual orders and in mass production when cutting fabrics with textile vices. In this case, when the layout patterns on the fabric unfolds half the number of parts. Full kit of parts for a single product get two layers double fabric. The advantage of this method is the decrease in the number of raznocvet and distortions in the flooring. In addition the tissues in the cage is easier to combine the strips forming a cage the width of the material.
The disadvantage of this method is that complicated the detection of defects and increases the fabric consumption per unit products 1.25 - 1.5% in comparison with the method of razvorot "face to face." 
Nastilanie razvorot "face down" used for cutting various products that have unpaired or unbalanced parts (e.g., in a dress). This method is applicable for all kinds of products. In this case of each leaf flooring is cut complete set of parts one product, so when you run osmeloski on the cloth laid out all patterns for a single product.
Nastilanie razvorot "face to face" used when cutting goods, having a symmetrical part. Paired parts are picked from two adjacent canvases. This method is the most economical consumption of tissue. With this method very it is easy to determine textile defects, but there are cases of raznotsvet, rezinotehnichesky in detail. 
  The cutting of the fabric.In now the fabric cutting in different ways. Flooring first cut apart and cut out the major details of mobile cutting machine with vertical knife. For precise cutting of parts used stationary band knife machine. Cutting thin tissue produce machine with circular knife. 
When cutting products for individual orders apply elektromaschine scissors.
To reduce slippage of the cloths used clamps, rigid patterns and patterns, edged with tin. After cutting out the parts check the quality cut by overlaying parts with top, bottom and middle of paintings flooring the corresponding control curve. Simultaneously with the inspection the quality of cut in some cases on details nameset line tucks, the location of the pockets do fit the picture in valves, the leaves and patch pockets.
Cutting quality depends on correct tool grinding (sharpening angle). When incorrect sharpening of the cutting tool cut parts can have shaggy edge.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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