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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 4. Processing features dresses and blouses of fabrics that contain artificial and synthetic fibers

In recent years, the range of fabrics has grown considerably and increased production of fabrics, containing of artificial and synthetic fiber. Among petievich tissues widespread tissue with content of synthetic fibers. The most successful for the manufacture of dresses should be considered tissue that contains z0 is 50 % synthetic fibres and 50-70% of wool, and for skirts, pleated and pleated - more than 50 % synthetic fibers. In these tissues effectively manifest the physico-mechanical properties, which are necessary to improve consumer properties of lightweight women's clothing.
Currently changed the structure of nylon and other synthetic fibers obtained bulky, fluffy yarn with high moisture content and the best heat-shielding properties. 
New fabrics, containing chemical fibers have a number of physical and mechanical properties different from the properties fabrics from natural fibers, and require compliance with certain modes in the manufacturing of these garments. 
  Properties of wool fabrics with synthetic fibers. Platelia fabric with synthetic fibres widely common due to the high performance properties and the beautiful appearance. These cloths are small shrinkage from soaking (not to exceed 2 - 2,5 %), high tensile strength minor elongation, abrasion resistance, resistant fixation of the folds and pleats, the stability of which is maintained when worn, the cleaning and washing. 
Along with the positive properties of the fabric with synthetic fibers have the following disadvantages: 
increased rigidity and poor drapability;
intense contraction of the joint and fit the bottom part of the seam stitching, which is particularly pronounced in the direction of the warp threads; 
the ability the appearance of spots, as well as the change of the color tone of the fabric when wet-heat treatment. These defects can not be removed. 
  Treatment of fabrics with synthetic fibers. The increased rigidity of these fabrics, slight stretch themheals nastilanie. Tissue do not give distortions, not crumple. However, when cutting difficulties due to the melting of the polyester and plaque formation on the blades of cutting tools. The quality of cut depends on the height of the deck, cutting force, thickness and sharpening angle the cutting disk or tape cutting machine. The height of the flooring install depending on the tissue thickness (30 - 40 paintings). Shear blades and cutting machines should be well sharpened. To reduce the friction whencutting required before work tape and knife cutting machines lubricated with engine oil.
When sewing items from hard tissues there is a rapid dulling of the needle that leads to tissue damage inthe line of stitching. In the skiving of parts of dense tissue with high content of synthetic fibers by car 22-B cells. PMZ is observed the contraction of the seam stitching and the fit of the bottom part towards the top.This is especially true when grinding parts, sections of which have the same direction with the warp threads.
To ensure good the quality of the product you want to apply sanding machine non-stop seam 597 or 697 cells. OSLM or device designed Niesom. When the absence of the above machines and equipment reduction of tightening the seam is achieved by stretching the tissue manually. At the same time stretch upper and lower parts.
The tension of the upper and lower threads should be reduced to a minimum, ensuring good quality lines. The frequency of the stitching when sewing should be within four to five stitches 1 cm, foot pressure is 0.25 MPa. Presser foot pressure you need adjust depending on the thickness and type of fabric surface. Forsmooth sliding surface of the fabric presser foot pressure can be increased to 0.3 MPa. 
Good quality bridging the seams of the car chain stitch. When setting sleeves on machine chain stitch it turns out elastic seam and achieved best fit of sleeve.
Because of the low melting point synthetic fiber Dacron (softens at a temperature of 235'C, melts at 260'C) while working machines with a maximum frequency of rotation of the main shaft fiber Dacron melted, deposited in the eye and grooves of a needle, which leads to frequent breakage of the thread, tightening the joint and increase in the number of cut filaments of the fabric.
To address this deficiency, should be used chrome-plated needle which are characterized by high strength and, at its surface not detain sediment of melted synthetic fibers. Needle number you need to choose according to the material thickness and number of threads. When sewing women's and children's clothing made of fabric with synthetic fibers should be used needle No. 80 - 90 (GOST 7322 - 55). The hole in the needle plate should match the diameter of the needle and not to exceed 1.5 mm, the feed needs to have the pitch of the slats is equal to 0.6 mm.Threads should be used cotton No. 60 - 80 or Mylar No. 90/2; for finishing operations, silk No. 65 or Mylar № 90/2. For eliminate melting of synthetic fibers when sewing good to use cooling of the needle (a device for cooling the needle is projected on new machines).
Given the stiffness of the fabric, the seams grinding the neck, bottom of sleeves, armholes, sundresses etc., should Topstitch on obtachku with a distance of 0.2 cm from the line grinding, which facilitatesprutivka sides of the part without the buttonhole, provides roveto Kant and stability during wear. 
To smatyvay details and lay obracanie the edges to thin needles No. 2 - 3 cotton thread high numbers (No. 60 - 80); hemming bent edge on a special machine with needles No. 75 silk threads No. 65.
Shoulder seams need to be ground off with the landing shoulder of the cut backs on the value provided by the pattern maker or technical description, at the same time paving from the front edge of a thin fabric ora thin braid and dresses in thick fabrics thick shoulder seams you should sew with double stitching. The fit of the back side storevault with moisture, after which the seam rautureau or iron in according to the model.
The sections of the bottom and obcutek in products of thick easypayday tissues can be a buttonhole and hemming without bending. For padding in the collar, sides, cuffs, valves and other parts should be apply low-fabric. When you use calico as strip it is necessary to pre-predicativity.
Wet-heat treatment of tissues with a high content of synthetic fibers should be performed at a temperature Ironing the surface is 180 - 200 'C for termopolirovannogo fabrics (fabrics with special impregnation) and 170'C for determinirovannykh tissues. Is produced through pressing of moist protohellenic. Operations thatthe use of proteinlike difficult, the temperature of the Ironing surface should be reduced to 160' C for termopolirovannogo tissue and 140 - 150'S for determinirovannykh.
Wet-heat treatment side and shoulder seams, sleeve seams etc. it is recommended to perform vrazalic, since the seams usautoco get a small folds (bulk) from the front side. 
Razoruzhenie joints produced in two steps: first without moisture at a temperature of 140 - 160'S for 1 - 2 seconds, and then through the wetted protohellenic.
Wet-heat treatment obrechennyh and the bent edges should also be run in two stages: first iron using undamped protohellenic for 1 - 2 seconds, then remove the thread of the buttonhole and zamatyvala edges and priotity again using a moistened protohellenic. This processing in two steps is due to the fact that as a result of Ironing edges of thread of buttonhole there are traces of puncture needle and thread,which are very difficult to remove. 
  Processing products from chistoozerny fabrics. Fabrics made of acetate yarn, it have beautiful appearance, molossinae, drape well, resistant to sitopaladi, pass ultraviolet rays and does not cause skin irritation.
Acetate fabrics, compared to viscose have a number of positive properties: it is lighter, less sit in the bathroom (1,5 - 2 %), better retain the dimensions of the product during operation, less deformed (whichpositive effect on manufacturing processes), nastilanie fabric less stretching, no distortions (which provides greater precision to cut out parts, and when sewing less distorted lines, especially oblique sections), in the operation of the product retain their shape better and less crease, have great strength in the wet state(strength of viscose fabric in a wet state decreases by 50 - 55% and acetate 30 - 40 %), less absorb moisture in wet treatments (wash), reducing the duration of drying of products in two times; these tissues possible a stable fixation of the folds and pleats in wet-heat treatment.
Disadvantages of acetate fabric are: reduced resistance to high temperatures (when heated totemperatures in excess of 150 'With acetate, the threads begin to soften), low abrasion resistance (less wear time products), increased sensitivity to acid and alkaline solutions.
When processing chistoozerny tissues you must meet the following conditions. 
Because of its physico-mechanical properties of the tissue require catasetinae accurate cut. The inaccuracy of the cut parts causes difficulty in the fit of parts.
Catasetinae fabric barely pierced by the needle. When sewing, one should use a fine needle and thread. 
The frequency of the lines five or six stitches per 1 cm When the common line is cutting through tissue, and in rare retraction. 
For shims in the collars, the sides, neck, cuffs, and other details (if this is required by the model) should be applied to low - cushioning materials. When applied as a strip of calico it you must first predicativity.
In the manufacture of products from fabrics having little elongation, cut possible without drawing edges (e.g., at the shoulder cut). 
Seams of stitching around the neck, bottom of sleeves should Topstitch the piping at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from seam grinding, which facilitates Ironing oblasnogo edges without the buttonhole, provides roveto edge around the edge and stores it in the socks.
Wet-heat treatment such tissues should be performed at a temperature of the heating surface of the iron is not more than 150 - 160'S. Pressing seams, Darts, edges should oblachnykh to produce without moisture, as in ironed with moisture appear imprints of the seams. 
Side, shoulder seams, the seams of sleeves is recommended to resaturate. 
When exposed to the fabric by heating the iron surface with a temperature over 160'S appear Lasy and changes the color of the fabric, and further the temperature increases the deformation of the fabric.
With a strong uneven moisture and high temperature spots appear. From prolonged exposure to moisture and heat may shrink the fabric.
Samini on details eliminate iron through a moist protohellenic. Hydration in this case should be uniform and negligible (up to 10 %). When applying the moistened proteinlike temperature heating the surface of the iron may be raised to 170 'C.
Ironing obrechennyh, sweeps and swept edges should be performed in two stages: first iron after the buttonhole a short time, then longer, after removal of the thread the buttonhole when the iron temperature 150'C. When the temperature of the iron of 160'C should be used protohellenic. 
  Processing products from the staple of suiting. Woven fabrics of viscose staple fiber produced in large quantity. They are soft to the touch, drape well, stain. 
In the manufacture of the staple of suiting with nesminaemoy finish recommended:
sewing cotton jewelry thread, No. 50-60 (GOST 6309 - 52); 
the frequency of the stitches when you perform operations on sanding machines - four-five 1 cm lines; 
on the sanding machines to install the feed with small teeth; 
to use needle No. 90 - 100 (GOST 7322 - 55); 
due to decay of tissue slices buttonhole open cuts; 
Ironing fabrics with minimal hydration without much effort stretching, which can lead to tissue destruction;
when wet-heat treatment temperature of the Ironing surface shall to exceed 150'C; exceeding the recommended temperature can lead to the decrease of wear resistance products; in the processing of products on presses the exposure duration should be 10 s, the pressure of 0,05 MPa (0,5 kgf/cm'). 

Especially the treatment of women's and children's clothing made from printed satinov

Embossed satin are fabrics with special finishes. Embossing greatly enriches and diversifies the appearance satinov. When the manufacture of clothing made from printed satinov is recommended the following conditions: use cotton thread No. 50/6, 60/b (GOST 6309 - 73); grinding sanding machines for you to set the frequency stitch four to five 1 cm; use needle No. 90 (GOST 22249 - 76); wet-heat treatment temperature of the Ironing surface shall exceed 140 'for exposure of not more than 30 on the siteweld a length of 50 cm, as this temperature is exceeded, leads to the lowering of the wear resistance of the product; regulation and subsequent maintenance of the set temperature of the iron can be carried out using the thermostat.
In the absence of iron thermostats install the heating elements of such capacity that the temperatureheating of the Ironing surface does not exceed 140'C; moisten follows only portions of the seams with a damp swab of tissue without applying spray, as moisture causes deterioration of the effect stamping satinov.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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