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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 4. Treatment of cuts and tucks

Processing of slices. Depending on fabric, recommended processing and equipment sections of the connecting seams can be processed in the following way: serged on a special machine jotted on a sanding machine, piped or treated teeth. 

When the seams vrazalic buttonhole cuts recommended run to the grinding of parts and seams, the sections of which further the processing of iron on one side, overcast after grinding or simultaneously with the grinding (Fig. 4, a).
 
When processing joints vrazalic before connection of the parts to zastrochit slices on a sanding machine stitch bodybu open cut (Fig. 4, b). The edge of the part inside bend of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 - 0.3 cm from the fold (Fig. 4). 
 
When the treatment of joints vrazalic you can apply the edging sections with a strip of thin silk fabric seam edging with one open cut or special silk braid. Slices nylon fabrics can to be melted on a machine with a special device.
 
In the products of easypayday natural fabrics and velvet allowed to cut teeth on a special fixture (Fig. 4, g). 
 
Special machines two needle eyelet and stitching detail are produced at the same time.
 
 Treatment tucks. To give the product a specific shape in accordance with figure person, and also for a better fit of products to figure on the main details that make a tuck. Solution tucks and their number depend on the fit of the product. Depending on the location on the product tuck is divided into the upper and the waist line.
 
Top Darts are from the shoulder seam, neckline, armhole or side seam. These tuck in the women's products are basic. They are necessary for receive the convexity of the items in the chest.
 
Tuck from the line waist necessary to obtain the fitting products on the figure in the field waist. In products with a tight fit solution tucks more than products poluprilegayuschy. The products free form tuck from the line the waist is not designed. 
 
Processing method tuck can be cut and uncut. Lightweight dress tuck uncut.
 
Depending on the model, tuck can go in soft folds, can be replaced by tuck-tucks, folds, and undercutsraised seams. 

Tuck, coming from the slicer, is marked with the inside details on the auxiliary patterns of the three lines (Fig. 5, a), and in the middle parts - four lines: middle, side and lines that define the beginning and end of tuck.
 
Detail fold face inward on the middle line, the manufacture for individual orders first smatyvay tuck on the sideline, andthen grind off (Fig. 5, b). In the mass production of tuck grind without prior smachivaniya. Tuck coming from the cut parts, sew, starting from the slices, and finish strictly at cross-lines determining the tuck end. Tuck, located in the middle of the part (Fig. 5), grind off starting from one end.
 
Tuck, turning into soft folds (Fig. 5, g), grind off first acrosstuck, and then at an angle towards the cut, rounding out the line in area.
 
For products made of cotton fabrics in bulk processing of Darts instead of lines cut details make the notch and the ends of the tuck - tattoos and skiving is performed in accordance with nadechka and tattoos. When you do this, ensure that the notch and the tattoos necessarily included in the seams in stitching tucks. Thread smachivaniya of pre-sour cream remove the stitches, tuck rautureau (Fig. 5, d), having scheduled the middle line strictly along the seam, grinding, or iron on one side depending on the model. 
 
Slack in the ends of the Darts sativum.
 
When processing of cotton fabrics in bulk the production of seams of the Darts are bent only in the direction according to the model, and wet-heat treatment is performed only in the final processingproducts. 
 
Depending on the model tucks can be stitched with the front side. Nastraivanie perform silk threads ondistance; provided by the model. The top thread in this case derive inside out and tie a knot.
 
Tuck into a soft creases, mark from the inside also three or four lines. In individual production of their first smatyvay the intended lines and then grind, starting to scribble across the seam allowance folds, thenturning detail, sew a tuck at the target side of the line.
 
Tuck, projected by the figure of the lines before grinding definitely smatyvay. The length of a running stitch 1.5 cm Thread smachivaniya after grinding and remove, tuck iron on one side in according to the model.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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