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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 5.2 О6работка the upper edge of the skirt


Fig. 94. Processing upper edge of the skirt fold-over waistband

  Treatment the upper edge of the skirt fold-over waistband. The treated zone is connected to the skirt using the lining from bakey tissue. The bake can be both double and single. Tips bakey pritachivajut to the slices of the allowances on the buckle, folding the belt and slices allowances, right sides inside (Fig. 94). Then, the treated zone put on front side of skirt, exposed side up, on the belt applied bake face down, by bending the ends of the allowances treatment of fastener on the front side, the call cuts and grind,combining the notch.
The belt is bent in the direction opposite the skirt, directing the seam in the side of the skirt pricechannel binding closed seam, cut single bakey bends inside and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bend (with double binding) or bent edges. Belt are bent on the front side of the skirt, forming the edge of the belt towards the inside of the skirt, and priorivet. The lower edge of the belt from the inner side of the belt at a distance 0.5 cm from the edge attached to the skirt concealed stitches manually. At the same time attach the ends of the belt. 

  Processing upper edge of the skirt without belt. When processing of the upper edge of the skirt without belt (Fig. 95, a) the upper section grind a single or double bake of basic material or lining fabric.
The ends of the first borders pritachivajut to the slices of allowances for processing fasteners, then the upper ends of the recess are bent on the front side, the leg fold with the top edge of the skirt front sides inside, stack the slices and grind from the side borders, investing in nadechka processed loops. Seam width 0.7 cm (Fig. 95,b). Then the seam allowance folded to the side of the skirt, covering the seam bake. Cut the borders (single) bends inward at 0.5 - 0.7 cm and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the bent edges or bend double borders.
The ends of the loops scribbled or attached manually a paper clip or small button depending on the model, forming a small overlap the loops for the free threading of the belt. 
  Processing upper edge of the skirt seam itagiba with elastic tape. Before processing the upper edge of the 
first specify the length of the skirt and determine the amount of allowance for ACC. Value allowance for ACC should be equal to the width of elastic tape plus 0.2 - 0.3 cm plus the width of bending the inner edge, i.e. of 0.7 - 1 cm.
If the model projected several rows of elastic tape, the amount of the allowance for ACC increases accordingly. In this case the upper edge of the skirt can be handled by the facing. The ends of the elastic tape connect the patch seam sanding machine zigzag stitching across the braid. The amount of time one end to the other 1.5 - 2 cm
The upper section of the skirt is bend towards the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm and overcast loop on a special machine (pull of tape). Then the upper edge of the skirt bend towards the inside at the markings andzastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge, at the same time putting an elastic band. The width of the ACC in finished form should be equal to the width of elastic tape plus 0,2 - 0,Z see If you have multiple series elastic tape at first lay parallel lines distance between them equal to width of tape plus 0.2 cm, and whenzatrachivaniya cutoff allowance or the inner edge of the piping, i.e. when laying the last lines, at the same time put elastic braid. The rest of the braid prodelyvat manually grind off the ends of herpatch seam or fasten manually 12 - 15 stitches.
  Treatment lining for the skirt and connecting it with the skirt from the main fabric. Lining for the skirt must be cut according to the skirt of main fabric. Tuck the cloth lining for the skirt should belocated in accordance with the tucks on the main skirt. 
Darts and seams of lining for the skirt are treated the same way as the main skirt.

The seam of the lining in which is located the zip of the skirt, sew up markup that defines the end of the clasp. Slices of allowances for processing clasp overcast and seam zastrugivajut bodybu open cut (Fig. 96) or after treatment with clasps pritachivajut to the edges of the clasp the main skirt around the lines of the felling edges of the zipper.
In according to the model and from the width of the skirt at the bottom of the lining side seams can be one or two slit - slots. The edges of the slot are treated with seam bodybu open, pre-serged edge or closed sections having lines at a distance of 0.5 - 1 cm from the bent edges of the slot. The bottom lining is treated with the seam itagiba with closed cut (Fig. 97). 
The lining for the skirt turned inside out, the bulk of the skirt on the front side.
Put the lining inside the main skirt, combine the Darts, seams and the notch, call the upper sections and fasten for sanding machine line at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm slices. 
The upper edge of the in skirts with lining are treated in different ways depending on the model, as well as in skirts with no lining. 

When the processing of the upper edge of the skirts banded waist lining can be joined with the main skirt at the same time with pritachivajut belt putting it between the main parts (Fig. 98,a) or pritchina it in two steps (Fig. 98,b).
For this basic skirt turned inside out and the lining - on the front side. Put the lining inside the main skirt, i.e. fold the details right sides inside. Between them put the treated zone to equalize the slices, combining Darts, notch, seams, and connect the machine stitching at a distance of 0.8 - 1 cm from the slices, i.e.pritachivajut the belt and the lining.
Depending on the model, the belt can to be processed by an elastic band. The ends of the elastic tape scribbled on the inside of the belt from the inside out. Tape width should be already belt ready on 0,S - 0.5 cm and should not fall under place of protecive zone. Turn the skirt on the front side, the lining is folded on the underside of the skirt, the belt is straightened (Fig. 98 in). 
Slices lining the zipper pritachivajut to the stock fasteners the main skirt on the inner side near the lines of the felling edges zipper (Fig. 99).
At the end of the lines doing the notch at the the shape of a triangle and fix the end cut the zipper lining on the base of the triangle. 
  Final finishing and wet-heat processing-dress costume. The final finish of the jacket perform as well as the final finish of the dress (see CH. 1, § 21).
Loops at the waist skirts to button-down handle in the middle of the belt width on the special machine. Thread loops for hooks are made manually. Loop length of 0.4 - 0.5 see the finished skirt and remove all remaining ends threads, traces of chalk and dust skirt with front and back sides of the hand brush or piece of clean cloth. 
Wet-heat treatment side joints and seams joints of panels of the skirt make from the inside out withoutproteinlike. The zone of iron from the lining of the belt, the bottom - side bending through moist protohellenic.
Place sewing hooks and mark out buttons on the model. Hooks and metal loops sewn on a special machine or by hand, making at least three or four stitches in each ear and twists. Metal eyelets hook and loop come inside belt.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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