Cutting of materials. Cutting of materials is carried out in accordance with the measurements taken from the customer and the selected model. 
When cutting, the cutter uses the patterns are basic designs, developed modeling organizations in accordance with the direction fashion. A set of patterns each size includes patterns details top (back, front, sleeves and collar), as well as patterns additional details such as patch pockets.

The curves show the direction of the warp threads and dimensions the main structural sections that are in the process of cutting should adjusted in accordance with the standards of the customer (Fig. 155 and table. 9). 

In table. 9 lists the measuring points of the main structural sections the patterns and the formulas for calculating these areas based on the measurements (Dt.with, SS, etc.), constructive allowance (PK) and allowance for seam (PH). 
Seam and stocks in a cut and in the finished product in women's dresses and blouses must conform to the values specified below.

              Plot details Allowance for the seam and margin, see 

1. The back is 
a) the average slice 3 
b) neck 1,5 
in) shoulder slice 3 
d) the line of openings
at the top part 3 
at the top side slice 2 
d) lateral slice 3 
e) the bottom of the product 
direct casual Dresses 7
In jackets, blouses, 5 trousers 
with flared skirt 5 
g) slices model lines 3 
h) the lower section of the bodice 4
and) shoulder and middle cuts in products with cap sleeves 3
) between the lower cut sleeves products with cap sleeves you 2

2. Shelf (before) 
a) neck 
at tops 2 
for the base 2
b) shoulder slice 3 
) the line of openings 
in the upper part 3 
- level width measurement of the front 2
have the top side seam 2
g) side slice 3 
d) the bottom of the product 
direct casual Dresses 7 
In jackets, blouses, 5 trousers 
with flared skirt 5
e) slices of the model lines 3 
W) the lower cut the bodice 4 
h) shoulder and middle cuts in products with cap sleeves 3
) the lower section of the sleeve in products with cap sleeves 2
K) gusset 2 

3. Sleeve 
a) the crown 
top halves 1,5 
lower halves at the apex of the ulnar cut to 1.5 
b) front slice 1,5 
in) elbow cut
top halves 3 
lower halves 3 
g) the upper section of a double seam, sleeve 
vtachnoy 2,5
casual Raglan 3 
d) lower cut sleeve 
one-piece 3 
double seam 2 
e) line openings in the sleeves are cut Raglan 2,5
g) the portion of the neck in the sleeves are cut Raglan 1,5 
h) bottom sleeve 
long 5 
short Depending on the model

the seam and stocks in womens trousers and skirts next. 

1. Pants
a) side slice 1 
b) step cut 
back halves 3 
front halves 1 
) line bow 1
g) a medium cut rear halves of the pants in the upper part 3
d) top slice 1 
e) the bottom of the pants without cuffs 6 

2. Skirt 
a) side slice 3
b) upper slice 1,5 
in) slices wedges 1,5 - 2 
g) the bottom of the skirt 
straight 7 
flared 4
d) slice model lines 3 

the consumer services materials for kids in centralized workshops with decking and single paintings, as in the Studio at the place of reception and production orders of single sheets. 
Tissue, giving greater shrinkage during processing, before we will open deytroyt.
When cutting material use patterns basic designs the trendy assortment or build drawings directly on the material. Patterns are laid out in accordance with the technical conditions (see table. 8). 
TOTSL developed "Standards of consumption fabric on women's clothing, manufactured by individual orders of the population", which along with the norms of fabric consumption given model schematic layout patterns of elements easy wear.
There three forms of organization of work of cutters: individual, collective without the division of labour and collective division of labor. 
The individual form used in the Studio high-class fashion Houses. 
In companies where manufacturing of products under individual orders performed by teams of medium and large capacity, used the collective form of labor cutters without the division of labor and the division of labor. 
When the collective form without the division of labor cutters work in a salon on a schedule of duty.
For enterprises with centralized departments and with a network of collection points apply the most advanced form of collective division labor. In such enterprises some cutters work in foster salons produce and taking orders for the manufacture of products, selection and sketch the model, taking measurements, fitting products to the customer, obmeleet the product after trying on and renting the finished product to the customer. Other cutters work in cutting the branches of the centralized Studio production products where cutting the fabric coming from receiving stations,perform instruction of workers in the brigades. With such a labor organization cutters should be adopted common methods of sizing design and nomenclature.
Cutter reception center or salon helps the customer to choose the model based on modern silhouettes and characteristics of the shape, appearance, age customer and colors and fabric structures, from which you are order; takes measurements, performs a sketch of the model and determines the flow tissue. All data were entered into a receipt. 
The most progressive form of the cutters is the production of products with one fitting. 
The jobs of cutters are placed in the receiving compartment, in cutting the shop and in the fitting cubicle.
To work in the cabin of the cutter should have the table size 1,5x0,8х0,8 m. For cutting tissue using a table of size 3,2x0,11х0,9 m. 
To cutter, working in the receiving salon, and perform only Omelko and more details, set up the cutting table size 1,8x1,2x0,8 M. 
  the Workshop of centralized material cutting and the manufacture of the cushioning components. The functions of this Department include maintenance of all sewing processes, fit butt, as well as cut semi-finished products and different finishes.
The use of centralized cutting butt and making finishing parts allows to reduce norm of consumption of applied materials, reduce the time for cutting work, greater use of special equipment, a division and specialization of labor. Along with the growth productivity improves the quality of the processed details. In the cutting Department of the shop cutting and butt pads running the flooring in several of the paintings on the unified patterns with the application of the layouts for three, four or more products. Cuttingsemi-finished products produced according to special patterns taking into account the allowances, installed to custom fit the customer.
With sufficient the amount of material according to customer seam in the finished the product side sections, the sections of the model lines, the bottom of the garment and sleeves can be increased. 
For a small amount of material agreement with the customer, the seam in the finished form at specified the slices can be reduced. 
All parts are cut out given the direction of the NAP of the fabric pattern, the direction of warp or weft,permissible extensions and deviations from the normal direction of the threads basis, the allowances for inventory and seams. 
When cutting you must meet the following conditions:

a) the parts of the pile fabrics, corduroy, velvet, the pile should be directed upward; 
b) on the parts of the pile fabrics of the type flannelette, suede and fabrics with bright pronounced NAP pile should be placed from top to bottom; pile embossed plush, which has no specific direction, can be is as bottom-up and top-down; 
g) all items of products from fabrics with a directional pattern must have the same direction of the figure;
d) all parts of the product of fabrics with large pattern cut out so that the right and left sides of the product was the symmetrical pattern; drawing on the open areas should be retained; 
e) the backrest and before products from fabrics with very large and rare printed design cut out so that their means coincide with the center of the main pattern;
f) middle of the back and front fabrics in large peas shall pass through the centre of the pea; 
b) mid all the details of the fabrics in the strip should coincide with the middle of the Central strip.

Cutting fabrics in striped and plaid should be based on subsequent fit csonka: on the shelves - on the edge of the boards; on podborta - on the outer edge of the lapels, and the back - cut along the middle; valvesWelt pockets, slips, slips, pockets, collar, the strap of the back - upper and lower sections; flirts back andfront - to the folds or tucks. To fit the pattern tissue at the shearing of these details should provide allowances in size 1/2, 3/4 or full repeat pattern. If by modelprovided the location of stripes, herringbone, patterns applied the control line of the desired slope and feature patterns that line coincided with the band on the tissues; the patterns can be placed along or across the fabric depending on the width and pattern of the fabric.
When cutting fabrics with stripes, you must comply with the following requirements: 

a) on the backrest, consisting of two parts, the strips on the right and left sides should be symmetrical; 
b) on the back yoke stripes at the yoke and back should be the same across the entire width of the back or middle part of it; 
) on the front yoke stripes at the yoke and the shelf should match full width shelves or in front of (to the creases, gathers, if shelf with folds or assemblies);
g) on the valves, and the opening, overhead pockets, valances pockets without flaps, slips, martingales strips should match the stripes on the main parts; 
d) at the ends of the collar strap should be positioned symmetrically. 

If cutting fabric with a medium or large distinct pattern cell horizontal strips in the side seams lightweight clothing, trousers must be the same; articles of such fabrics in the middle of the collar must to pass the same cell (or stripe) that goes in the middle backless.

                The size of the plot details                                             , the value of the size of the plot, the details, see 

1. Width podborta
at the shoulder 3 cut 
along the chest line 10 - 11 
waist products 
cap 8 - 9 
cut at the waist 5 - 6 
on the bottom 7 - 8
Podborta length Equal to the length of the shelf without allowance for the hem 
Width obtachki podkralas 
neck, back and front in products without collar 5,5 
figure slots, pockets and different shaped slices 5,5 
5,5 openings of 
the bottom of the sleeves 5,5
The length of the piping podkralas Equal to the length of the processed section of the part 
Width obtachki pocket 
flap Welt 5 
Welt, treated with two obrazkami 
upper 4 
lower 4 
Welt processed one facing 8
The length of the piping of the pocket is Equal to the length of the slot pocket plus 4 cm 
Width obtachki 
slot 5 
loops 5 
In table. 8 of the most typical cases in the direction of the warp threads on the details of garments. Depending on the features of the model and structure of material, the direction of the threads may be different.
For definition deviation from the normal direction of the threads the basics (or duck), cm, multiply the length of the line normal the direction of the warp threads( or weft) on a set percentage deviation and to divide by 100. 
Sample sizes are basic small parts easy clothes are given below. The sizes of these parts depending on the model and features of the processing components can be changed.