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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 5. Preparation of instruments for the first fitting


The preparations for fitting performed individually or in the brigade, which will be used to produce the product, but all work on the preparation of the product to the fitting performed by a single person - the seamstress-rocznica (smettila) with 4-th or 5-th digit. When cutting the main parts for fit products to fit customer make allowances-sections. Allowances when cutting mark with chalk. The value of allowances to a different slices different. The amount of allowances to detail must be at least shown in Fig. 148 and 149. 
In one-piece dresses, sundresses, dresses, coats and blouses make the following allowances: on the back - cuts of the neck, shoulder, side, armhole and bottom; on the shelf - sections of the neck, shoulder,armhole, bottom, side and along the line of primaqiune side (in the products cutting side); the sleeve on the front, elbow and the bottom sections. In products with cutting side make allowances for all the slices. 
  Sundresses and dresses, cut at the waist line, make the following allowances: on the back - cuts of the neck, shoulder, side, armholes and waist; on the front - cut neck shoulder, armhole, side and waist line. 
  In dresses, cut at the waist, with cap sleeves make the following allowances: on the back - cuts of the neck and shoulder, middle and lower sections of the sleeves, side cut and cut along the line waist; on the shelf - sections of neck and shoulder, the middle and lower cut sleeves, side cut and a cut waist. 
  In dresses, cut at the waist, with sleeves casual Raglan make the following allowances: on the back - cuts of the neck and side, the arm openings and waist; on the front - cut neckline, armholes, side and waist; by all the sections of the sleeve, except for the bottom. 
  Dresses with yoke, tselnokrajnie with sleeves, make allowances for cuts: the yoke on the shelf or in front of at the shoulder and medium-sized cut sleeves, bottom yoke and cut the bottom slice sleeves; yoke backless - cut neck, shoulder, middle the cut of the sleeves, the lower sections of the yoke and sleeves. 
  In dresses, potrebnih at the waist with a partial reliefs make the following allowances: on the back - cuts of the neck backless and shoulder, cut the connection of the backrest side part; on the side backless - shoulder cut, cut the connection side part with back to cut the armhole at the side edge; on the shelf or on the front - on cross-sections of the neck and shoulder, on the shear connection with side shelves part; in the lateral part of the front or shelves - at the shoulder and cut armholes, side cut, and cut the connection side with shelf.
Received from a tailor the product to prepare it for fitting and training on the job with explanations of the features of the processing model and reading the description of the appearance of the model seamstress-rocznica proutyuzhivaet part of the cut product takes from the order slip on the fabric pass the order number and puts it to product: the skirt - left side, on jacket and blouse - to the back of the bodice. Then lays the threads in the middle parts of the front and back throughout the length of the product, and the dresses, cut at the waist line on the center bodice and skirt on the chest on the front of the bodice and on the back - uranie blades; on the buttocks line on the sleeve at the top of the crown. The jackets and cap products threads are laid and the waist line.
The threads are laid on the front side of the product on special machine or hand straight stitches using naloxene thread. In this case knots and tacking stitches should be placed on the front side products to sewing products were not included in the line and could be easily removed.
Then check the depth of the folds and the distance between them translate lines for paired items or with one hand on the details the other, symmetrical side using the chalk Board and cutter. In those cases where the cutter can disrupt the structure of the material (chiffon, nylon and fabric with synthetic fibers), the line should be translated using pins. Primetyvajut the main parts wedges, extensions, under the cut, in the products of legkopolirujushchiesja tissues overcast manually silk thread buttonhole stitch and the notch angles under the Gore in products with cap sleeves.
The bodice smatyvay tuck, reliefs, side and shoulder seams of bodice, cuts right sleeve. If necessary, on the crown of the right sleeve lay thread education Assembly. 
The skirt smatyvay tuck, reliefs and smatyvay and zametyvayut or disperse folds, the side sections,primetyvajut the bodice to the skirt at the waist, bends and zametyvayut the bottom. Right sleeve underarm umatyvaet in or attached to the product using the pins. In the products with the sleeve Raglan smatyvay and umatyvaet in openings of the two sleeves. Umatyvaet lower collar into the neck or attachedto the product.
Primetyvajut to the upper edge of the skirt grosgrain ribbons. Iron graviola product, attach the receipt of the order, hung on hanger and handing it to the tailor to try on for fit customer. 
When smachivanie all parts of the product are folded, right sides inside, combining the marked line, fasten with pins or without smatyvay bond depending on the complexity of the joints and properties of the fabric. 
Tucks and folds metiaut, folding and lock them from the ends. Tuck and folds, located in the middle parts, smatyvay, starting with one end.
When connecting parts bridging or lapped tongue seam smachivanie performed by those parts, which are fit fabric or Assembly; parts with complex (curly) slices smatyvay with side parts with concave sections. In the presence of the split corners smachivanie performed on the workpiece side with crosscuts. When connecting part or parts thereof overlaid seam edge of the upper part in bend the direction of the inside on the planned line and zametyvayut at a distance of 0.5 - 1 cm from the edge, and then prepared the detail is applied to another part,combining fold the top part from the intended line, and namachivajut it on the distance is 0,Z is 1 cm or more (depending on model).
Princess seams smatyvay on the workpiece side with the concave cut. Side and shoulder seams smatyvay on the back.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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