Pleats are one of the varieties of Darts. Their design the main components for freedom of movement and at the same time fit products at the waist, as well as finishing seams. Pleats are one-sided, counter, box, jotted across length, straight (NIPs) and complex. 

 Unilateral folds. These are the folds that bends with the front side directed to one side and from the inside to the other. Every fold is marked from the inside three lines - the middle line (line of the inner bend), lateral (line of the outer folds) and the line that defines the end of the grinding. Depth folds depends on the model. If the fold-detail one, then it can to be a depth of 4 - 8 cm, if folds on the details they design depth of 2-3 cm When cutting details make allowance, equal to twice the depth of the folds. So, if the depth of the folds is equal to 2 cm, thenthe amount of the allowance must be equal to 4 cm.

Detail bend on the planned midline face inside andsmatyvay along the lateral line are rare (two to three stitches per 1 cm) a special machine or by hand a running stitch length 1 - 2 cm, and then grind off. Place finish in the transverse direction in a straight lineor oval lines (Fig. 6, a). After that the detail is laid out on the table face down. Thread smachivaniya in the area where the crease stacona, remove, fold, bend to one side (depending on models) and priorivet until snug. With front side pleat can be trimmed with a line at the distance prescribed by the model. The line lay using a special ruler.

In the presence of stitch finishing the edge folds from the front side can be unfastened. In this case the fold smatyvay on the planned line from the back bent on the side, zametyvayut, priorivet and fixed on the front side finishing stitching. Thread zamatyvala with the front side removed and fold priorivet from the inside through the gasket.

Unilateral the pleat can be processed on parts made of two parts (Fig. 6, b). In this case, one-way pleat and connective. On one of the parts from the inside of the support the curve or line on the outline side line (the line of the outer bend) and the line defining the end of grinding. Two of the part skatyvajut right sides inside, stack the slices, smatyvay on the planned line across the length of the part and grind off, ending a line across allowance for a pleat. The edge of the allowances in the crease grind off in the distance1.2 - 1.5 cm from the slices and then overcast by a special machine. When a special needle machine skiving produced simultaneous buttonhole cuts. Item laid out on the table face side down, thread smachivaniya on a plot of grinding is removed, leaving them in the area where the pleat will go. Stock on the crease bent to the side, zametyvayut and priorivet from the inside through the gasket.

In the presence of the finishing stitches on the crease with unfastened edge the processing sequence is changed. Fold smatyvay on special machine or by hand. Stock on the crease bend to the side in according to the model, zametyvayut and priorivet. Finishing line pave on the front side of the folds by using a ruler guide on distance depending on the model. Slices allowances in the crease sew and overcast. Thread smachivaniya and zamatyvala on the site the finishing stitches are removed, fold priorivet. 

 Inverted pleats. These are folds in which the folds on the front side facing each against each other, and from the inside - in opposite directions (Fig. 6). An inverted pleat in the back is marked with three lines - the middle line, side (outer bend line) and the line that defines the end of the grinding. The depth of the folds depends on the model. When cutting parts on the crease make allowance, equal to the depth of one bend, multiplied by four. So, if the depth of a single bend 3 cm seam allowance when cutting must be equal 3 x 4 = 12 cm.

In the manufacture of the pleat detail at the bend the planned midline face inside and smatyvay on the side line rare stitching (two or three stitch 1 cm) sanding machine loosened the top thread on timetoknow machine or by hand a running stitch length 1 - 2 cm, and then grind. Thread smachivaniya on the sitegrinding is removed, leaving them at the site where the pleat will to disperse. Item laid out on the table facedown, allowance on the fold are laid on both sides of the line of stitching foldshaving scheduled the middle line strictly along the seam grinding, disperse and priorivet. To avoid offset bends into folds the socks and for durability it is recommended that allowances in the crease to fix the inside lines, around the lines of stitching folds (see Fig. 6), or from the front line across the width across the seam allowance folds (Fig. 6, g). With front side pleat may to be decorated with lines-rasstroena (left and right seam connection)the distance prescribed by the model (Fig. 6, d). The line lay with use a special ruler.
 
In the presence of stitch finishing the edges folds from the front side can be unfastened. In this case the crease smatyvay on the planned line from the inside, laid out on two sides, disperse, priorivet and front side rasstraivaet finishing lines at a distance prescribed by the model. Thread smachivaniya removed, leaving them at the site where the pleat will go, crease again priorivet from the inside through the gasket.
 
Inverted pleat can be both connective (Fig. 6,e). In this case treatment will involve three parts: two main, i.e. part one details, and a third strip of base material, equal in width to twice the the width of the seam allowance on the fold (in the cut). So, if the width of the seam allowance of the bend (in cut) 4 cm, the width of the strips should be equal to 8 cm.
 
For processing of such folds on one of the parts of the basic details from the inside on the auxiliary pattern or line on the outline side line (the line the outer folds) and the line defining the end of grinding. Two partsmain part is folded, right sides inside, stack the slices, smatyvay on the intended line throughout the length of the part and grind off, ending line of the intended transverse line defining the end of stitching, securing the end with double stitching or tying a knot. Thread smachivaniya on a plot of grinding is removed, leaving them onlythe area where the pleat will go. Seam stitching details rautureau. On razoruzhenie seam impose a third detail strip of core material - face down, primetyvajut her the intended line of basic parts and pritachivajut on this line from the primary starting place from the end lines of the piecing together of the folds. Then grind off the inner sections (folds) folds. Seam width of 1.2 - 1.5 see sections Then seam overcast on a special machine, and in the presence special two needle machine skiving produced with simultaneousthe buttonhole cuts. The edges of the folds of the trim line at the distance ofaccording to the model.
 
In the presence of the decorative stitches on the counter connecting the crease with the unfastened edges along the finishing lines the processing sequence is changed.
 
On parts of the main part outline the outer bend, on the third - additional parts the middle line. Allowances on the crease on the parts of the main part bend inside out according to the planned lines, iron, then placing the main additional detail on the bends towards the midline, and namachivajut scribbled in the distance under the model. After that grind off the inside sections of the allowances in the crease and overcast them a special machine or grind off simultaneously buttonhole.
 
With to save tissue is allowed to carve out a third item length is not the entire length of the folds, but only under destacando part (Fig. 6, g). In this the first overcast on a special machine the upper section for more details, then it primetyvajut and pritachivajut to the slices allowance for a pleat. Seam width of 1.2 - 1.5 cm Then overcast slices seams primaqiune strips, slices at the same time overcast seam connectionparts of the main part. 
 
 Box pleats. Box pleats represent the wrong side of the inverted pleat or two unilateral folds, where the folds on the front side is directed to the opposite side and form a "bow" (Fig. b,z). Mark and box pleats are treated in the same way as the counter of a single part, but only from the front side of the part. The fold detail on the planned lines with wrong side inside, smatyvay, grind along the planned lines, laid out on two sides, while strictly middle with a seam grinding and priorivet through the gasket. Box pleat can beand processed as two-sided, but press it in different directions. Box pleat can be both connecting and (see Fig. 6, and).
 
 Unilateral folds. When cutting parts give allowance the treatment of the folds and make the notch in the cut or plan line bend for laying the folds. The first fold on the details lay according to nasacom or planned lines and zastrugivajut line with using the guide ruler. All subsequent folds zastrugivajut with using the device which provides the necessary width of the folds and the distance between them. Folds straighten and iron, by bending at one side of the model. After the wet-heat treatment produce final refinement details for utility templates.
 
 Complex folds. Complex folds make for the purpose of decoration and also in cases when when cutting was not given allowance for the finishing stitches. Example complex folds can be Flirty, cut together with the main detail.
 
Crease mark on the front side and the back two curved lines depending on the model - average (inner bend) and side (outer bend). From the inside under the middle line folds enclose strip of base material. The width of the strips depends on the width of the finishing stitches. Striped primetyvajut so that the linecuts through the middle of the strip, and pritachivajut, padding line the front side strictly on the planned midline (internal of bend). Next, the main part bend in the seam primaqiune faceinside and folded in one direction, and pricechannel strip, also folded twice, in the other direction. Then lay a second machine or a running line (if extravagant unfastened edge) at the target side line. The part is laid out on the table face down, fold bent to the side according to the model, the folds of a complex configuration zametyvayut, priorivet. Then on the front side for special templates plan a line the finishing line at the distance prescribed by model, paving or finishing line without a strawman with the use of a special foot with a guide. Fold priorivet with the inside through the gasket.