Assembly. Build in women's and children's clothes are used as a decoration or instead of Darts.

For the formation of assemblies (Fig. 7,a) in mass production use needle machine with a special foot. In the absence of the needle machine lay two parallel lines, and in the absence a special foot for the formation of assemblies on the parts are laid two parallel lines with slightly pulled stitches. The distance from the first lines to slice 0.7 - 0.9 cm, until the second - to 0.9 - 1.4 cm, Slice details pull it over the lower threads of lines to the desired value, the resulting on the Assembly part are distributed evenly along the entire length. Aftereducation Assembly cutting length of this part should correspond to the lengthslice of the part that she is going for further processing are connected.
 
The Assembly can be obtained, and manual method (Fig. 7, b). For this lay two parallel lines of a running stitch. Frequency stitches three or four 1 see the Needle capture only two or three threads of the fabric.The left hand hold the material. After each stitch the needle of tissue removed should not be. The needle is removed only if ruching on a very large plot. At the beginning of the work should be well secure the thread. To this end it is wound on hammer in fabric pin. After establishing the length of the section assemblies, the thread is fixed, as the Assembly is distributed evenly along the entire length.
 
 Pseudogene soft folds. When cutting the slice of the part that needs to be formed soft folds, make the notch. Pleats lay under ndsatcom (in individual production of their zametyvayut) and zastrugivajut on the edge so below this line for further processing hit the seam and was not visible from the front side (Fig. 7). 
 
 The Boothe. The smocking is used for finishing underwear and women's and children's dresses. The Boothe are a variety of assemblies and can be made by hand and machine. 

 Hand smocking can be of different patterns, especially in the decoration of the dress. Mark the smocking dots or lines on the reverse side of the part. The number of rows booth depends on the pattern. The distance between rows of 0.8 - 1 cm, betweenpoints - 0.5 cm (Fig. 8). Points in each row must be strictly one below the other. First, lay a running stitch, with the needle is injected into the tissue is strictly to the point, and the output midway between the two points then the threads are tightened to form folds folds up which would be stretched, but so that they could be moved.After receiving the folds proceed to the embroidering pattern. To obtain waffle pattern or pattern "honeycomb" fixed alternately stitches cross two folds of the number, making four or five stitches in each setting. Figure Boothe is performed. After embroidery thread Assembly is removed.
 
 Machine buff are common and with the cord.
 
To obtain an ordinary boof on the details of the scheduled multiple parallel lines. The number of lines and distance between them depend on model. The scribble detail on the intended lines (or parallel to the edge) one or two needle machine with a special foot for education assemblies. In the absence of a special foot detail scribble on the planned lines from the front lines with slightly pulled stitches. Tips the top thread is removed on the underside of the part, forming an Assembly by tighteningstitches. Assembly is distributed evenly along the entire length, the ends of the linesfix, tying them with a knot. The ends of the lines of the booth from the inside lay zastrugivajut folds to a depth of 0.1 cm so that the ends of all lines Boothe entered the seams zatrachivaniya folds. To Boothe not stretched in the process of socks, inside out, under them enclose a piece tissue, which is cut out of base material so that the warp threads parallel lines Boothe. The dimensions of the pads have to match the size and shape of the puff at the details in finished form plus allowances for seams and cut. Cuts the edge of the lining, if theyfurther processing will not enter the joints, bend to the side the inside of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm or overcast on a special machine from the bent edge. Lining attach concealed stitches. If the slices puff included in the seams of the connection parts, the sections of lining missing in these joints. The side lining can be participate to the primary simultaneously zatrachivaniya folds in the ends of the booth.
 
To obtain relief Boothe perform them with the cord. To do this from the inside under the smocking enclosethe strip of core material and scribbling on the front side on the planned lines. After stitching the first line and each subsequent between the main part of the lining and put the cord and zastrugivajut him tightlyskirting the upper cloth. Zatrachivaniya cord perform with the help of a special foot.
 
The seam of the lining, if they are in the future treatment will not be included in the seams joining parts, bend in side wrong side 1 cm and zastrugivajut simultaneously with the execution lines for the formation of Boothe. 
 
Detail pull on the cord to the amount required, the resulting Assembly is distributed evenly in entire length. The ends of the cord fix a double machine stitch across cord.
 
Depending on model the ends of the cord can reach the front side. On the main part to output cord on the front side according to the planned lines treated with hole in form obtekanii loop. The length of the holes should equal the distance between the first and the last lines of Boothe. Lines of zatrachivaniya cord must cross and to seal the hole in the transverse direction. In addition, the hole must be bonded to the ends of the lines five or six hand stitches. If the ends of the cord are cut the details, while zatrachivaniya cordslices main part and lining of the inside bends of 1.5 - 2 cm Ends each line is fixed by five or six hand stitches.

 The undercuts.Undercuts are a variety of Darts and at the same time one of the elements finish. In a cut one of the slices of podraza longer than the other, i.e. allowance for Assembly or folds. On the long side of podraza pavingtwo lines to form an Assembly (Fig. 9, a). After the formation of the Assembly side podraza should be equal in length. Parts bend and fold, right sides inside. Slices of podraza call and metiaut, leveling Assembly. Smachivanie is performed to cut parts having assemblies at 0.7 - 0.8 cm from the edge a running straightstitch length 1 - 1,5 cm Makes the undercuts as well as tuck with side sobornoy details. Joint width of 0.7 - 1 cm (Fig. 9, b). In the end podraza seam gradually narrow and nullify the finishing line at 1 - 1.5 cm beyond the end of the slit tuck. The ends of the lines secured, thread smachivaniya removed. The overcast seam and bent in the direction of the part the part that has no assemblies. In the products of silk and wool fabrics, of fabrics with synthetic fibre seam iron. The seam can be lapped tongue. Before nastraivanie productsof wool and silk fabrics and also in fabrics with a content of synthetic fibers seam zametyvayut. If the model seam nastroni and the width of the seam connection is less than a width of the finishing stitches, the result what seam piecing together podraza does not fall on the line of felling, at the skiving podraza under seal enclose the strip of base material. Skiving is performed by parts without assemblies, and a strip put down on the feed. Nastraivanie seam podraza perform with facial hand with the foot with the guide line. Joint width depends on model.