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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 7.1 Handling a variety of finishes and joins them with the details


  Braid and soutache. Braid and soutache (Fig. 10) very common at present to furnish children's and women's dresses and blouses.
Tapes come in a variety of colors and patterns. The edges of the braid can be straight and have a curly shape. 
Rick-rack braid scribbled on the front side of the product. It was applied on the front side of the part on the planned line face up and scribbled a single line in the middle. 
Braid or Rick-rack lace with scalloped edges can be finished with the collar, the neckline, the hem products and other region. In this case, pritachivajut braid to detail to grinding sections.
Lace with scalloped edges trim the edges of folds on various parts. To do this, first iron the folds folds to a depth of from 0.3 to 1 cm depending on the model. According to the planned lines scribbled on the detail of the braid, then cover the joint with a bend folds so that it was visible to the notched edge of the braid orteeth, and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 cm from the fold folds.
Ribbons with straight edges applied to detail on the intended lines and scribbled on one side or on both sides at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge. Nastraivanie perform with the help of a special foot with the guide for the tape.
Soutache trim edges the collar, cuffs, hem, etc. Very often to finish using soutache a variety of colors scribbled in one or more series parallel lines. Soutache applied to the front side details according to the intended line scribbled and silk threads one stitching in the middle of the soutache, laying the line in the groove. In the presence of special foot string or cord passed through the hole of the foot and scribbled on the detail stitching invisible from the front side. 
  Lace. Lace is the most common type of finishing underwear, but in now lace is used for finishing women's and children's the easy clothing. Lace applied on the front side of the part on the planned lines and scribbled on the sanding machine at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge lace or on a special machine, cutting edge details about lines. 
  Ruffles and flounces. Ruffles is a very common type of finishing. Ruffles often trim children's products, women's blouses, skirts and dresses of thin or of the soft tissues. Flower girl dresses from a fabric print trim ruffles solid-color fabric. Ruffles in the product can be located horizontal, vertical, lines straight and curved shape of the yoke.
Ruffles cut out of base material or other fabric finishing at an angle of 45' to the warp (at least in the transverse direction) a width of 1.5 - 30 cm depending on the model, length and a half or two times morethe length of the shelf. Ruffles, made by folds or pleated, cut three times the length of the line of primaqiune.
Ruffles can consist of several parts. Part of the frills folded facial sides inside, stack the slices and grind, with the line at warp. Seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm, depending on the falling of tissue. For products made of cotton fabrics, the stitches straightened out and in the products of silk and woolen fabrics rautureau. If required by the model unfastened edge of the ruffles pulled the iron on a smooth table surface with the inside of the part.
The frills flounces are different from those that they are wider and cut them basically in a circle. Strip length for internal lines should be equal to the length of the line of its protecive. Unfastened sectionsflounces are treated as slices ruffles. 
  Processing of frills and flounces. Methods of processing unfastened slice ruffles or flounce vary by model and fabric. 

The edge of the part surface mounted on a special machine, padding line a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the cut edge, then the columns of openwork cut in the middle (Fig. 11,a). 
The edge of the detail put into the switch machine with zigzag stitching and scribble, seam bodybu closed cut (Fig. 11,b), in the absence of special foot line lay from the bent edge, and the seam allowance near the line of cut (Fig. 11). Edge details figure form or straight from legkorastvorimah tissues before zatrachivaniya you must samitivate, turning the slices at 0.5 - 0.7 cm and paving line at a distance of 0.2 - 0.4 cm from the fold, or to press. 
The edge of the part zastrugivajut for sanding machine with the help of special foot-switch, narrow, seam itagiba, when no special foot - double line (Fig. 11,g). For this cut parts bend towards the inside 0.3 - 0.5 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.15 - 0.2 cm from the fold, bent edge around the stitching cut, bends a second time by 0.2 - 0.3 cm and zastrugivajut. 
During the processing of a slice, trim the seam allowance unfastened edge of the folded ruffles on the front side 1.2 cm zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 - 0.3 cm, depending on tissue thickness, bent edge then turn inside out from the fold, tightly around seam. Slice bends inward so that the bent edge of a closed machineline, and sew hidden stitches. The frequency of the stitches three or four 1 cm lines.
When processing the slice piping basic or finishing fabric strip edging cut at an angle of 45' to the warp threads or a duck. The purpose of the economical expenditure of the fabric strip edging may consist of several parts. Part of the folded strips facial sides inside, and sew so that the line passed through the warp threads (Fig. 11,d). The edge of the part processed on the machine with special a device (one line, Fig. 11,) with the bending sections of the strips inside.
In the absence of special devices for the strip the edging is first pulled along the entire length, then put on inside out frills face down (Fig. 11, f), equalize the slices pritachivajut on the distance of the slices depending on the width of Kant (joint width should be less than Kant ready by 0.1 - 0.2 cm). The strip is folded on the front side, skirting around sections of the seam, cut strips bends inward so that the bent edge overlaps the line primaqiune 0.1 - 0.2 cm, and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge strips.
When custom orders edge ruffles can be processed strip without a line Kant (Fig. 11,h). In this case, a strip of edging applied to the front side ruffles face down, stack the slices, and primetyvajut pritachivajut on the distance depending on the width of the edge (seam width must be equal to the width of the piping in finished form - 0.3 - 0.4 cm). Striped folded inside out, cut around the seam, the cut bends inward so that bent edge overlaps the line of primaqiune 0.1 - 0.2 cm, zametyvayut and fixed machine stitch from the front side in the seamprimaqiune strips or manually sew hidden stitches. Frequency stitches three or four 1 see Thread zamatyvala removed, the edge of the ruffles priorivet.
When processing ruffles cut a strip of double-folded (Fig. 11), of the strips connect in the same way as described above. If the ends of the ruffles to be processed in the further processing will not be included inseams other details, cross-sections of the strips bend to the side the wrong side by 1 cm and iron. Then the strip is folded along the middle the underside and inside priorivet. The prepared strip is applied to the front ruffles, equalize cuts and pritachivajut side strips at a distance depending on the width of Kant. Then the stripfolded inside out, rounding the seam and bending the cut inside to bend the stripes on the wrong side of the closed seam of her primaqiune, and scribble on the front the side ruffles in the seam primaqiune strips. The bent edge strips in the ends of the Assembly file manually hidden stitches (eight or ten stitches on each end) or zastrugivajut machine stitching on a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge. After processing the unfastened edge of the frill priorivet.
Primatively the overcast cut on a special machine. Then on this edge on one or two needle machine with special foot lay two lines to form assemblies or scribble without special foot two parallel lines with a slightly prolonged stitches. The distance from the edge to the first line of 0,4 - 0,7 cm, to the second 0,5 - 1 see Bottom lines tightening. Formed on the Assembly part distributed evenly throughout its length. The length of the edge after the formation of the Assembly should correspond to the length of the planned lines or on the part towhich protechna frill. In the manufacture of soft ruffles pseudogene folds first, mark the folds, then lay on the planned lines or cuts (in sales individual orders zametyvayut) and then zastrugivajut in the distance 0.5 - 1 cm from the edge to this line for further processing hit the seam and was not visible from the front side.
  The frill protruding (Fig. 11) cut out with an allowance for processing. From the unfastened edge ruffles lay the width of the ruffles are subject to serving part ostalo on the part of the width (1.5 - 2 cm) turn inside out, zametyvayut, priorivet and plan a line of primaqiune. After that one or two needle machine with a special foot for education Assembly lay two parallel lines, departing from the line primaqiune to both sides, 0.2 - 0.3 cm Build distribute evenly throughout its length.
To obtain scalloped edge ruffles a running stitch zigzag pave line with a distance between corners of the zigzag 1.5 - 2 cm, with one end of the line is fixed, and the other pull the entire length of the processing edge and the Assembly. 
Width, scalloped edge ruffles depends on the model.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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