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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 7.2 Handling a variety of finishes and joins them with the details

Connection frills and flounces with the basic details. Ruffles and flounces can be Brittany, stitched and vacany between the two parts or folds of the seam allowance. 
On the front side of the main part plan a line of primaqiune ruffles. The flounce is applied on the front side of the main details of the face down (in the opposite direction from the location of it in the finished product), primetyvajut and pritachivajut with side ruffles or flounce, dispensing the Assembly uniformly along the entire length. The width of the seam side ruffles 0,7 - 1 see Frill folded down, the seam priorivet.

The main the detail may consist of two parts, the seam connection which according to the model must be attached frill or flounce. Frill or flounce put on the front side of one of the part stack the slices and pritachivajut with the side ruffles or flounces at the second line of education Assembly (Fig. 12, a). Thus watch, that the Assembly are evenly and detail laid pleats. Joint width 1 cm and Then the part detailspricechannel frill or flounce stack up with the other part details right sides inside (Fig. 12,b), having a ruffle or flouncein the middle, smatyvay, combining slices, and grind, with the line at a distance of 0.1 cm stitching primaqiune ruffles or flounces. Width seam 1,3 - 1,5 see Details laid on the side, the seam is folded and iron in the direction opposite from the location of ruffles or Volan.
When connecting parts patch seam (Fig. 12) cut the second side of the part you tuck into 1.5 - 2 cm on the planned line in side the inside, zametyvayut or iron, is applied to the workpiece with pricechannel frill or flounce, namachivajut, and then scribbled so to line of primaqiune ruffles or flounce was not visible from the front side.
If the edge ruffles or flounce includes a pleated main details, frill or flounce is applied on the front side of the main details faceup, primetyvajut on the intended lines and pritachivajut. The width of the seam side ruffles 0.4 - 0.6 cm After that the main detail of the bend on the edge of the ruffles, fold the face inside and grind off the crease, stepping back from the line of primaqiune ruffles or shuttlecock 0.1 see Details laid out, the seam is folded or iron in the opposite direction from the location of ruffles or flounces.
The frill protruding applied on the front side of the main part faceup, primetyvajut on the planned line, and then scribbled.
  Ruffles. Ruche ruffles is different from the fact that it handled not one but both of the equity slice. Ruche is a simple and shapes. Cut Ruche is treated in the same way as the sections of ruffles.
For simple Ruche cut out a strip of cloth at an angle of 45' to the thread basis or by a transverse filament width 3.5 - 4 cm, longer lines primaqiune half. After treatment of the sections Ruche the middle lay two lines on one - or two needle machine with special foot for the formation of assemblies. The distance between the lines 0,2 cm in the absence of a special foot lay two parallel lines with slightly pulled stitches.

On the Ruche form Assembly, pulling the bottom thread of the stitches, the Assembly is distributed evenlylength. Beautiful decoration is ruffles with scalloped edges. For receipt of the Ruche with a notched edge (Fig. 13, a) are laid zigzag line with a distance between corners of the zigzag 1 - 2 cm in zavismosti from the model, the structure of the tissue.
For shaped Ruche (Fig. 13, b) cut a transverse strip of basic or finishing fabric width 3.5 - 4 cm and a length three times greater line of primaqiune, treated slices, lay and laid a box pleat width 2 cm. Every fold smatyvay and laid out on two sides and fix one a running stitch in the middle. Prepared thus the strip can be connected with the product. 
To obtain Ruche of the more complex forms of fractional edges of each fold fasten in the middle of the hand stitches, making three or four stitches in each backstitching.
After the formation of the assemblies Ruche is applied to the main detail, combining mid-Ruche-target line, and scribbled one stitching between the lines to form assemblies (Fig. 14), evenly distributing the Assembly. Thread lines, forming Assembly, and remove or leave, if required by the model. When you delete a thread first pull out the bottom, cutting it in several places using 5 to 7 cm, and then upper. 
  Detachable ruffles, flounces. For processing the inner edge detachable ruffles or flounces cut out of equity or the transverse band of the main or as decorative material. Edge turn over the seam with a shut cut single or double folded strip.

The processing of a single strip produced as follows. If the frill is a closed detail, the ends of the ruffles sew, stitch or iron rautureau in depending on the type of fabric and model. The ends of the strips also grind off. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seam in the products of cotton fabrics laid out on two sides, and in the products of wool and silk fabrics rautureau. The strip is applied to the underside of the ruffles facedown (when custom orders primetyvajut) and pritachivajut, dispensing Assembly, or folds evenly over the entire part(Fig. 15,a). The width of the seam is 0,5 - 0,7 cm Seam spread. If the internal the edge of the ruffles are treated in open loop, the ends of the strips bend towards the inside of 0.7 - 1 cm Strip folded on the front side, tightly around the seam; cut the strips to buckle inside so that bent edge of a closed line of primaqiune, and scribbled on a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge (Fig. 15, b).
The processing of the twice folded strip as follows. When processing the inner edge of the ruffles,represents a closed part, you should first grind off the ends of the strips. The width of the seam is 0,5 - 0,7 cm Seam rautureau. Strip bend in half along the middle, stack the slices and priorivet. If the inner edge ofruffles is treated by the open circle, the ends of the strips bends inside 0.5 - 0.7 cm Strip applied face on the front side ruffles, equating sections (with custom orders primetyvajut), and pritachivajut, dispensing Assembly evenly.Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and Then the strip is folded inside out, tightly around the seam (in the individual production zametyvayut) and then prostrachivajut, padding line on the front side in seam primaqiune strips.

  Borders. Borders - a strip of base material or fabric finishing. Apply borders to trim women's and children's products (Fig. 16,a). Bakey there are single and double. They can be stitched and nastronie andless casting.
A bakey in the product horizontally vertical, oval and curved lines. Binding is also possible to grind and edge details. Cut out borders at an angle of 45' to the warp threads equity cross or pokrainini by form details depending on model. The width of the borders also depends on the model. The purpose of the economical spending tissue borders can be of several parts. If traces are constructed from multiple parts, pieces grind so that the line passed through the warp threads. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seams rautureau. Bake priorivet simultaneously retracted, giving it the form inaccording to the model.
Prepared single bake impose face on the inside details, call sections, and then grind (Fig. 16,b). In the individual production beyka pre-primetyvajut. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see If the seam is made for oval or curved line, in areas where further treatment the seam can tighten, his netscout, not reaching line of grinding on 0.1 cm Then bake bent on the front side, the edge priorivet, forming the edging of the borders with a width of 0.1 cm or positioning seam at the bend. Free slice bakey bends at 0.5 - 0.7 cm inside, zametyvayut,priorivet and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge (Fig. 16). Thread zamatyvala removed and again priorivet the processed edge products.
If the line felling bakey straight or smooth, then bake scribbled without prior namachivanija.
The second slice borders can be press to primaqiune bakey to detail. To bake ready-made along the entire length were the same width, they prepare a strip of heavy paper with a length of 20 - 25 cm, width isbakey ready by 0.5 cm After eversion of the borders on the front the direction of the prepared strip put between the main part and bake, cut the borders round the edge of the paper strips and lightly priorivet(Fig. 16, g). After that the region borders zametyvayut and scribbled so that the edge strips do not fall under place. 
  Double bake fold along the middle with the wrong side inside, stack the slices and priorivet bend. Prepared bake is applied to the underside details equating sections, primetyvajut, and then pritachivajut. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see the Seam in places where when further processed it can tighten, netscout, not reaching a line 0.1 cm Bake bent on the front side priorivet. The free edge bakey scribbled. 

  Casting bakey. Bake stacked with detail, right sides inside, and primetyvajut pritachivajut (Fig. 17, a). Joint width 1 - 1,5 cm Seam folded in the direction the main details.
If one slice single bakey included in the seam connection details, then processing is performed as follows. On the main details on the front side outlining the alignment borders. The main detail may be already cut to the width of the borders in finished form (for example, during the processing of a collar). Bake impose on the planned line on the front side of the part face down (from scheduled the line in the opposite direction of the location of the borders in finished form), primetyvajut and pritachivajut. Seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm (Fig. 17,6). Bakebent in the direction of the cut, closing the seam primaqiune, iron and scribbled from bend borders the width of it in finished form plus 0,2 - 0,3 cm (Fig. 17). The two main parts of the front fold sides inside, stack the slices and grind, the manufacture for individual orders details pre-smatyvay. Joint width 1- 1.5 cm Stitch felling cut borders should fall in the seam piecing together the key details.
  Nastronie borders. Part double bakey sew, bake and if you connect with the product in a closed the contour, and then grind off the ends. Seams rautureau. Then bake fold along the middle with the wrong side inside, stack the slices, priorivet fold, simultaneously pull or sativum edge in according to the configuration of the workpiece. On the main part plan a line. Bake superimposed on the front side of the main part cuts to the planned line and pritachivajut. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see individual production of pre-bake primetyvajut. Bakebent, closing the seam primaqiune, priorivet (in sales individual orders pre-zametyvayut) and scribbled on the edge borders.
  Double bake with unfastened edge of the handle in the following way. Striped fabric for borders folded in the middle front inside, equalizing sections, grind off and simultaneously turn with the help of special devices. Joint width of 0.5 - 0.7 see Beyka straighten and prithwijit, positioning the seam at the bend. Then bake superimposed on the basic detail on the intended lines and scribbled on the edge borders (for obracania edge). 

  Single bakey connect with the main detail on the planned lines. Prepared bake superimposed on the front side of the main part face down cut to the intended line, and pritachivajut. Joint width 0,7 cm Bake bent, closing the seam primaqiune cut bakey bends 0.7 cm inside and priorivet, and then scribbled on the edge (Fig. 18). When the custom-orders section of the pre-bakey zametyvayut. In mass production the second way of the iron before pritachivajut it to the primary.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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