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Home » Articles » Technology women's and children's light clothing

§ 8. Machining of parts with coquettes


The main parts of the product (front, back, cloth skirts) sometimes do with the belt. Flirty is one of the design lines in the product. The Basque come in many different shapes: straight, oval and curly. Models of children's dresses with various yoke shown in Fig. 19. 
According to the method of connection of the yoke can be stitched and patch. The lower edge of the yoke can be stitched and unfastened, and banding, frill, flounce, lace, etc. 
  Processing of banded flirts with straight and oval bottom edges.On main parts depending on the model can be formed by the Assembly or a crease. The Assembly on the details form in the usual way (see Chapter 1,§ 6) and distribute evenly around the edge or on separate sites in according to the model. The folds in the individual production lay according to nasacom and zametyvayut. In mass production folds lay pritachivajut simultaneously with the yoke.
In mass the production of the yoke is folded with the main detail right sides inside, stack the slices and pritachivajut, aligning the notch. Joint width 1 - 1.5 cm In individual production of the yoke previouslyprimetyvajut. If you have a special foot to form an Assembly form an Assembly, simultaneously with pritachivajut yoke. Primaqiune perform on the yoke. Seam primaqiune yoke overcast. In the products ofcotton fabrics seam are bent, and the products of wool and silk fabrics, iron to the side of the yoke.
If the seam primaqiune yoke model nastroni, it bent to the side coquette, zametyvayut, priorivet and scribbled in the distance, provided by the model. Nastraivanie performed on the front side. Thread zamatyvala removed. Seam priorivet again to thick fit and remove traces from the threads of zamatyvala. In mass production nastraivanie produce without prior zamatyvala.
When connecting the yoke to the part is lapped tongue seam in the articles of for thick fabric seam width when participarii from the yoke can to be equal to 0.5 - 0.7 cm, and from the main part of the seam width should to be equal to the width of the finishing stitches plus 1 - 1.5 cm 
  Processing coquettes edging frill and lace. In the presence of edging, frills or lace in the seam primaqiune coquette first pritachivajut these finishing details to the yoke. 
  Striped for Kant, fold in half wrong side inside, stack the slices and priorivet. Prepared for the striped edging applied on the front the side yoke fold to the middle of the part and pritachivajut Kant on distance from the bend strips equal to the width of the edging. Width the seam from the base part should be set to 1 - 1.5 cm 
  Frill pritachivajut the same way as Kant, in this case it was applied the front side down on the front side of the yoke, equating cut with ruffles cut yoke, and pritachivajut on the frill, a dispensing Assembly evenly. 
  Lace applied to the front side of the yoke facing down, curly edge to the middle of the part and scribbled at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from straight cut lace. The width of the seam from the yoke of 1 - 1,5 cm
After finishing the connection of the parts the yoke is folded with the main detail, right sides inside, stack the slices and pritachivajut on line primaqiune Kant, ruffles or lace. Individually manufacture yoke pre-primetyvajut. Seam primaqiune coquette overcast, then spread, by bending to the side yoke in a products made of cotton fabrics and products from wool and silk fabrics, seam iron.
If the seam joining the Basque with the main part nastroni, in the manufacture of products for individual orders pre-zametyvayut sections of the seam stitches length 1.5 - 2 cm, priorivet and scribbled on the front side the distance prescribed by the model, using the presser foot with the guide. In mass production cuts the seam is not zametyvayut. 
  Processing invoices flirts with straight edges.On the yoke outline the line of bending, and basic details line the edges coquette. Cut yoke bend towards the inside on the planned line, in yadaiah of wool and silk fabrics, it zametyvayut straight stitches length 1 - 1.5 cm and priorivet and products from the tissues, which traces of thread zamatyvala difficult to remove, iron without prior zamatyvala. The yoke is applied to the core part, combining the bent edge of the yoke with the planned line on the main part. In the products of wool and silk fabrics yoke namachivajut manualstitch length of 1.5 - 2 cm and scribbled on the distance prescribed by model. Thread zamatyvala region and namachivanija yoke is removed, the seam of joining the Basque with the basic detail of the overcast. The lower edge of the yoke priorivet.
  Processing invoices flirts with oval edges.Coquette with oval edges at connecting them with the basic details of the narrow finishing line (0.5 cm) should be treated the same as the coquette with straight edges. If the finishing line felling on yoke the core part exceeds 0.5 cm, the oval edge of the yoke handlethe facing, cut to shape the bottom edge of the yoke. Warp yarn in the facing should match the direction of the warp threads on the yoke. Width piping depends on the width of the finishing stitches and is equal to the width of the seam grinding the lower edge of the yoke plus the width of the finishing stitches plus 1 1.5 cm,for example, if the width of the finishing stitches 1.3 cm, and the product process of legkopolirujushchiesja fabric, the width of the piping must not be less than 3.5 cm (0,7+1,3+1,5=3.5 cm).
  Processing invoices flirts with protruding corners. The yoke from the front side via the auxiliary patterns or the line of plan a line of bending of the region. If the model yoke must be measurements for the core part of the narrow finishing line (0.5 cm), the edge of the yoke along the line of the bend towards the inside, with parts of it lay so that the slices were not visible from the front hand, zametyvayut and priorivet so that the processed the area was smooth. 

Fig. 20. Processing area of the yoke when nastraivanii its wide finishing line

When nastraivanii yoke to main detail wide finishing line (wider than 0.5 cm) sew parts of the yoke (Fig. 20). Joint width 0.5 cm In the products of cotton fabrics, the seams are laid on two side, and in the products of wool and silk fabrics rautureau, angles straighten, turn and priorivet.
On the main part needs to be scheduled to line the edges of the yoke. Processed the yoke imposed onfront side details, combining the processed edge of the yoke with the planned line on the main part. In the products of wool and silk fabrics the yoke namachivajut straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm at a distance in the width of the finishing stitches, in the individual production the yoke is pre-pinned with pins. The yoke scribbled with the front side is silk threads at a distance prescribed by model with legs with wire. Thread namachivanija removed. Edge coquette priorivet.
  Processing flirts with inside corners when connecting them with the main part of the bridging seam. For processing the inner corners of the yoke cut out the facing from the core material the shape of the corner with a width of 2.5 - 3 cm On the underside yoke outline of the line the desired shape. The facing is applied to the underside yoke face up and pritachivajut on the planned line (Fig. 21,a). In the individual production obtachku pre-primetyvajut. The seam in the corner of the cut before reaching the line of 0.1 see Details laid out in different directions, the seam and iron are bent in the direction piping.

The yoke is folded with the main item right sides inside, equating the area of the main part area piping of the yoke, and sew along the line angle (Fig. 21,b), with this line in the area should take place strictly on the line of primaqiune piping. 
The excess suture trimmed, leaving at least 1.5 cm Slices overcast on a special machine and iron in the side of the yoke or side of the main part, if it is stipulated in technical description the model (Fig. 21). 
  Processing flirts with inside corners when connecting them with the main part of the patch seam.To sections the top part is given the allowance for ACC. The value of this allowance depends on the width of the finishing stitches felling of one part on another and equal to the width of the finishing stitches plus 1 - 1.5 cm 

Fig. 22. Processing flirts with inside corners when connecting them with the main part of the patch seam

In the inner corners of the seam allowance netscout on the width of the ACC. For processing internal corners, cut out the facing from the core material in according to the shape of the processed corner. The facing is applied to the front side parts having an inner angle, and pritachivajut from the inside main part strictly on the intended line. The seam in the corner of the cut, not reaching up to a line of 0.1 cm, the facing turned to the inside of the main details, seam aligning and priorivet, positioning it in the crook orreleasing, edge width 0.1 cm, in the direction of the piping. The yoke imposed onanother detail (Fig. 22), aligning the cut edges of the angle with the planned line on the main part, and scribbled the finishing line on the distance prescribed by the model, using a special foot with the guide. When custom orders beforenastraivanie details namachivajut.
  Connection overhead flirts with complex scalloped edges of the narrow finishing line. Scalloped edge bend towards the inside on the intended lines and zametyvayut. In order to avoid delaying the edge of the swept cut in several places netscout, not reaching 0.1 cm to stitch zamatyvala. Swept edge priorivet. After that the yoke is applied to the core part, combining bent edge of a target line on the main part, and scribbled it at a distance of 0.1 - 0. cm (depending on model) using a special foot with a guide.
In the manufacture according to individual orders from the yoke before nastraivanie namachivajut. 

  The connection of a wide belt finishing line. To handle the yoke with a complex, scalloped edge, cut out obtachku on the form of the yoke of length equal to the length of the processed region, and width 3 - 5 cm (depending on the width of the finishing stitches). In this case the inner edge of the piping may be straight or curly. The direction of the thread the basics of the facing should match the direction of the warp threads workpiece. The inner section of piping overcast on special car. The facing applied to the front side of the workpiece face down, equalizing the slices and grind from the side of the piping(Fig. 23). Joint width of 0.5 cm In order to avoid delaying the edges of the cut seam in several places netscout before reaching the line of 0.1 - 0.2 see The facing folded to the underside of the workpiece, the seam is correct, whenmanufacture according to individual orders spawn, forming a Kant side piping with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm, and priorivet. After that the yoke is applied to the main item, combining the processed edge with planned line on the main part, and scribbled the finishing line at the distance prescribed by the model, using the presser foot with the guide(Fig. 23,b, C). When you custom-order a yoke in front nastraivanie necessarily namachivajut.
After felling thread the buttonhole edge and namachivanija is removed, the seam priorivet.



Category: Technology women's and children's light clothing | Added by: 18.10.2017
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