Preparing fabric to cutting. Cutting pile fabrics and fabrics with patterns.

One of the main stages while sewing is cutting fabric. To cutting fabric, you need to prepare - to iron, to clarify, there are no distortions. If there is bias, it aligns with an iron, folded the fabric on the fold and equalized edge. Most of the tissue when wet, shrinks in length and width, which can lead to deformation of the finished products, especially after washing. And in the seams where it joins the parts are cut in the warp (lengthwise) and duck (across) of the fabric, you may experience deformation in the form of imbalances and bubbles.
In order to avoid these defects in the tissue in front of the crack is subjected to dekotirovaniem, which gives the preliminary shrinkage. The simplest way to dekotirovaniem includes: 1) moisturizing, 2) drying, during which the shrinkage of the fabric, 3) Ironing.
Thick wool wrapped in a wet sheet (it is a kind of "roll") and left it for 5 - 6 hours. Then produisait from the inside in shared direction through a damp cloth and allowed to freely dry. Sprinkle with woolen cloth is not recommended because water spots may remain to the same from direct exposure to moisture, the fabric can change color.
Cotton, linen and woven fabrics of man-made fibers are soaked in room temperature water, squeezed and dried in the expanded (suspended) state or wrapped in a dry sheet wrung out and then produisait. Soaking bright fabrics to add to the water a little vinegar to the matter do not shed.
Natural silk cloth recommended only lightly ironed. Fabrics and knitted fabrics of synthetic fibres shrinkage practically does not give, to cutting them ready, just eliminating the iron bends and creases.
Cutting of products is done on a pre-prepared patterns (patterns with seam). The fabric on the table lay the unfolded width and folded in half face inward. In this case, edges have to yourself, the rest of the fabric lays on the left side, as you move the pickup patterns moves and the rest of the fabric.
The main condition of the layout patterns detail on tissue - match is scheduled equity line in the part with the thread of the base fabric (Fig. 92).

When folding the parts, you should consider the direction of the figure. If it is directed in one direction, and patterns of details on the fabric needs to be spread out so that the neckline of the back and shelves, lifts the shoulders and the top of the skirt was located in the same direction (Fig. 93).
When cutting fabrics that have ocenochnoe in different directions, such as tricotin, polyester, various diagonal, fabric glitter and Shine, you need to determine the shade. To do this, fold the two cut ends of a piece of cloth at the transverse yarns (weft) and choose the desired shade. The layout of the parts on these tissues is also performed in the same direction.
Pile on the fabrics such velvet, plush, corduroy, all parts are arranged in one direction strictly on equity. The pile should be directed upwards (Fig. 94), in this case, the fabric becomes matte finish. On the pile embossed materials, having no specific direction, the pile can be directed either from top to bottom, or Vice versa, but the details are all in the same direction.

On pile fabrics like a joke, the pile should be directed downwards, to wear the product remained a smooth surface and the pile fell down. In the General case, the direction of the pile depends on its length and stiffness. On long-pile tissues it is directed downwards, a short-on - bottom-up. On fabrics with a slight NAP of one products decompose in the same direction. If the layout of the two products, details of one can be directed in one direction, and other details in the other (Fig. 95).To do so, and if one size is too big and the details in full width are not. Then take two lengths and cut out a smaller size in the other direction.
Gladkokrashenye on fabrics, striped or plaid (no fluff), with a symmetrical pattern allowed the layout of the parts in opposite directions. Fabric patterned with large polka dots or stripes cut out so that the middle of the back and shelves match the middle of the picture. Is not aligned with the center of the product picture spoils its appearance.
On fabrics with stripes or a cage with the layout of the patterns, special attention should be paid to the strips or cells of the same color and width in the side seams and in the middle of each part: shelves, back, sleeves, front and back parts of the skirt. For this items are laid out taking into account the subsequent adjustment of the strips or cells on the edges: on the shelves around the edge of the boards on the back seam in the skirt at the seams in the pants on the side seams (Fig. 96 but the wrong location, Fig. 96 b right).
For details adjustment of striped fabrics when cutting give allowance for the width of parts of 0.5 rapport strips. When cutting parts from plaid fabrics give the allowance on the fit cells for the width and length of the parts as a 0.5 of repeat pattern (Fig. 97, green dotted line). If the fabric is cut into a bend, the pre-aligned strips on the upper and lower parts in the cage are sized and lateral line along the edge of the fabric chip pins, and then the allowance for adjustment can be reduced.
If the fabric with one-sided asymmetric pattern (stripe or check), its proper cutting requires special attention. Such fabrics may be used in an oblique direction, as even in the presence of the Central seam, the picture may not be the same. After cutting a striped or plaid fabric with allowances for fitting parts are placed, combining the pattern and cut out.

Pattern pieces can be placed not only along but also across - the tissues with a coupon drawing (Fig. 98) or on the bias of the thread (Fig. 99), depending on the style. The angle of the strips or cells in detail should be the same, then it is easier in the joints of parts is to combine the graphic. In this case, remains in force the requirement of cutting parts with allowances to fit the picture.

When cutting of the moving fabric (silk, nylon, nylon) need to fold it, to shear off the pins on the edge, cut around the parts with chalk, chipped in several places and then cut on a smooth but not slippery surface, to prevent shifting of parts.
There is a basic principle of the arrangement of patterns in the layout: large details straight (or close to straight) cuts are placed to the edge of the fabric, and curved in the middle part of the layout. Smaller parts are placed between large. Large and medium-sized parts are laid out so that the cut-outs between them formed large areas in the layout where a small details. It is necessary to observe the direction of equity in detail, however, the smooth fabrics can be deviations from equity in 1 - 2% of the part length.
The details in the layout encircle finely ground chalk (white or colored). When working with soap, check to see whether there will be then it traces in the form of fatty streaks. When working with a pencil on the lighter fabric should not be layout to redraw or touch up, so as to further the remaining parts of the pencil may show through from the front side.
The pattern on the fabric can be expanded and expanded, this circle left half part, then the right, this greatly reduces the time to work - it is not necessary to lay snares, Darts can be immediately applied with chalk on both sides.
When cutting you should not lift the cloth from the table, holding scissors with the pointy end down; and the left hand to support the severed portion of tissue.

 A few tips: 

- not to perekleivat tuck one side tuck on the patterns can be cut to the center (on the parts of Darts are not cut), bend on the second side, opened the solution tuck draw with chalk on the details (Fig. 100);
- when using bulk tissue is recommended to allow an extra seam, it is not necessary for the fabric to use in the designs with a large division of parts;
- for further planting articles in the figure at raskroe it is necessary to give allowance of 1 - 1.5 cm at the shoulder and side seams, hem;
- if there is not enough width of fabric to lay out the details of the pants, on the back half to make a wedge (Fig. 101);
in order to put equity line details for the warp threads on the fabric followed by the top and bottom of equity to the details to fathom measuring tape to the edge of the, equity line items should be parallel to the edge (Fig. 102);
- when the colour finish you need to check the strength of its colouring. For this sample of fabric finishing and produisait soaked through the white fabric. If the white fabric, leave marks, the finish should be abandoned, as at the first washing, the product can be spoiled.