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Home » Articles » The ABCs of sewing

Lightweight women's clothing

The sequence of women's and children's clothing
 


The manufacture of any garments begins with marking and stitching Darts on the details of the cut (Fig. 288). All Darts coming from the cut parts, grind, from the line sections (Fig. 288 a). Tuck, the ends of which move in a one-sided folds, grind, from the line across the seam allowance folds; then, turning the part at an angle, grind off its intended line (Fig. 288 b). Tuck, located at the notched line, pre-smatyvay (Fig. 288). Harvested tuck rautureau or iron (Fig. 288 g).After treatment tucks make pleats if they are provided by the model.
The processing order of the folds and their variants are described in the section of shirts.
When processing counter-folds items with press the edges impose additional detail on the intended lines and scribbled on the markup (Fig. 289), the sections of the allowances in the crease and cuts the extra parts to grind with the subsequent eyelet. Parts can be issue seams. To complete the Princess seams detail fold inside out or face inward (on the model) on the planned line and zastrugivajut on the machine (Fig. 290), then priorivet.
When processing the Princess seams with cord from the inside details enclose a pre-serged strip from the main or lining fabric in the main colour and scribble with a face on the intended line. Between the parts, put the cord and zastrugivajut it tightly around the top fabric (Fig. 291). For vrachevanie cord use a special presser foot with the groove.
 


When finishing the braid to the details pre-plan a line of felling, and then, putting her one of the edges of the braid, scribbled on the 1 - 2 mm from the edge. The ends of the tape for further processing must be in the seams (Fig. 292,b). If the braid should not Topstitch to the end part, the end of the leave nezastroennoe, then tuck it inside and fix it on the car. When nastraivanie of braid in a closed circuit at the connection ends of the one end superimposed on another 7 - 10 mm and scribbled with the ACC cut inside at a distance of 1 mm from the edge of the braid.
 


While processing the seam in the hem sections overcast, and then, bending, fix the finishing line.
 


When handling edged seam cuts ruffles, ruches, flounces edging braid (Fig. 297 a), or strip of cloth, cut at an angle of 45' to the warp threads (Fig. 297 b). In the manufacture of Ruche pseudogene with soft pleating a strip of fabric, lay pleats on the preliminary layout and fasten them with lines in the middle part (Fig. 298).
To obtain Ruche scalloped line for the formation of assemblies are laid in a zigzag pattern. The distance between the peaks of the zigzag is set arbitrarily (Fig. 299).
 


When finishing the smocking on the front side of the part are laid in parallel lines with slightly pulled stitches (Fig. 300 a). At the beginning and end of the seam is fixed, the fabric is collected at the bottom of the thread. Assembly is distributed evenly throughout the site. The number of lines set as desired.
To protect the booth from unraveling, they make the lining of the main or lining fabric.
Detail puffed connect with other parts so that the ends of the threads forming the booth, got into the seam (Fig. 300 b). If the ends of the lines forming the buff are not included in the joints connections with other parts of their close folds (Fig. 300). For this detail at the end of puffs bend on the front side and zastrugivajut fold, placing the cloth under the booth. The seam of the lining, if they are in the further processing will not be included in the sutures, previously overcast.
For finishing can be used different application, machine and hand embroidery, metal accessories.
Sections of the finishing details made of suede, split leather, felt and other similar materials not processed. For finishing you can use the conversion drawings. Paper with a pattern applied to the fabric pattern down, close detail paper and press with an iron at a temperature of 180 - 200°. Under the influence of the temperature of the dye transferred onto the fabric. After the workpiece parts to begin assembling, connecting them bridging, obraznymi, patch and edging seams. When connecting parts bridging stitch them fold right sides inwards and sew, combining slices. Seams rautureau or iron.If one of the parts with assemblies, skiving produced by parts with assemblies. The seams of iron, by bending in the direction of the part without assemblies.
 


The cut parts of the concave lines (figure 303 a) and convex (Fig. 303 b) pre-treated facing. Detail with the processed edge is applied to the front side of the other parts face-up on the planned line and scribbled.
 



Category: The ABCs of sewing | Added by: 16.10.2017
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