Processing of fasteners. One way of processing snap obecnie loop. They are treated in a universal home machine. Pre-iron the facing on two sides so that its width in the press it was equal to twice the width of the two edges (Fig. 312 a). Press the facing is applied to the workpiece products according to layouts and pritachivajut on the machine so that the width of the two edges were the same, the ends of the lines make tacking the return stroke of the needle.
Sections of piping swerve to the side edges, the detail and cut the facing between stitches, not dorezaya to the end of their 7 - 10 mm. In the end, making undercuts in two directions at an angle, not reaching the lines 1 mm. Straighten Kant and fix the ends of the double loop machine stitch (Fig. 312 b).
Loops in the products of wool, Dacron and silk fabrics priorivet from the inside, straightening Kant. After processing the edge of the Board podbot primetyvajut to the primary at a distance of 15 - 20 mm from the edges of the loops.
Podbot along the lines of the slits of the loops are cut, the sections bends inwards to the width of the edging and sew manual of concealed stitches, making three stitches in 10 mm lines (Fig. 312).
The clasp can be done using loops and cord. On the upper side of the fastener from the front side mark the location of the hinges. The cord cut into equal parts according to the size of the loop. Loop is applied to the markings on the front side of a part such that their sections facing the cut parts, and pritachivajut on the machine (Fig. 313). Line have a distance of 4 to 6 mm from the edge, so that when further processed it is turned inside the seam grinding.
In the manufacture of the loops of the braided cord is not cut apart, and bend at the attachment sites, positioning bends in the direction of the cut (Fig. 314).
For products made of cotton fabrics the loops may be made from strips of fabric, pre-prepared car. The strip is cut into equal parts, in accordance with the size of the loop is placed on detail and pritachivajut the same as loop of vetochnogo cord. At the bend of the loop are placed in a triangle and secured with machine stitching.
The clasp may be processed to the bottom part. When handling boards podborany podbot laid on the shelf, right sides inward to equalize the cuts and grind the Board and the ledge from the shelves, landing from podborta in the corner side and on the lapel, with side shelves - at the level of the clasp.
The seam allowance on grinding bead scribbled on podbot at the level of the fasteners, on Board - level lapel.
Ledges to grind the sides of the notch or to the shoulder seams depending on the method of Tachibana collar.
The lower ends of the boards in products from the clasp to the bottom grind on the bottom line bending according to the markings. If podbot pritachivajut on the bottom line bending to the grinding side, the allowance for bending the bottom of the product stack on podbot so that he came under the line (Fig. 315).
For products made of cotton fabrics lower cut podborta added to the allowance for bending the bottom, right sides inside and sew a seam width of 7 - 10 mm (Fig. 316). Straighten the seam, directing it towards allowance for bending the bottom. Then the allowance for bending the bottom bend on the front side on the markup, podbot folding with a shelf, right sides inside, and grind the Board and the ledge.
The seams of the top and bottom corners trimmed, leaving 2 - 3 mm. Side turn on the front side and priorivet, straightening Kant in the field of lapel - podborov and below - from the shelves.
The inner edge of podborov fixed in different ways: in dresses of cotton, linen, staple fabrics through stitching on the machine, in products made from other fabrics by hand every 150 - 200 mm In dresses buttoned up to the top loops on the buttons, the inner edges of podborov not attached.
In dresses with podborany single cut shoulder with shelves podbot the bend on the front side of the product on the chalk line, grind ledges to the notch and the lower ends of the sides on the bottom line bending.
In blouses and jackets, which are worn tucked into skirts or trousers, the bottom ends of the sides on the bottom line bending not grind and process them simultaneously with the filing of the bottom of the product. Side turn on the front side and priorivet. The inner edge of podborov attached to the product in the manner described above.
The Board can handle straps, attached on the front side of the product, which on the face of the shelves and back straps outline bottom line bending.
The lower part of the strap is folded with the bottom part shelves, right sides inside, and combining lines, grind off on the bottom line bending (Fig. 317 a).
The bar is placed on the wrong side of the shelves, straighten the seam primaqiune on the bottom, stack the slices and grind the side and ledge up to the notch (Fig. 317 6).
The seam allowance in the corners cut, turn the bar on the front side of the product, the seam straighten or priorivet. Free cut the straps tuck inside and scribbled on the shelf. Distance from line to the bent region can be determined arbitrarily.
The Board left of the shelves is processed right.
Processing of zipper braid zipper. Part of the front or back to the grind. markup that defines the length of the clasp. Sections of seam allowances and the zipper overcast. In products with a collar the upper ends of the braid-lightning pritachivajut to the allowance for processing and closure to the product inside out stitching across the band and at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the neck (Fig. 318).
The braid-lightning pritachivajut after treatment of the neck or vrachevanie collar, positioning the line at a distance of 4 - 7 mm from the edge of the closure depending on the size of the links of lightning. At the end of the zipper stitching should be held perpendicular to the slit at a distance 1 - 5 mm from the end links.
The neckline of the front or back of the teardrop shape is treated with a strip of cloth in a single layer (bound seam) or in two layers, attaching it to the front side part, and pritachivajut on the machine, seam width 5 mm, and then sutured from the inside with hidden stitches.
Most often clasp braid-zipper is done in skirts, pants, bodice, etc.
Processing of zipper tape-zipper located in the seam, is carried out after primaqiune bodice to the skirt.
The seam is where it should stachivaya lightning, not dostraivat edges rautureau. Umatyvaet then the zipper, then fastened her machine stitching at a distance of 5 - 7 mm from the edge of the slices.
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