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Home » Articles » The ABCs of sewing

Lightweight women's clothing

Treatment sleeves. Bottom sleeve draw up different ways. First, sew the side sections. If the double seam sleeve, front cut scribbled from the top, and the back or elbow slice from the bottom.

Bottom of sleeves can be processed at the open line (to connect sections of hoses) or a closed line depending on the design of the product.
 


Seam to the hem is used in the design of the bottom of the sleeves with flaps (Fig. 324). For products made of cotton and linen fabrics cuffs bend on the wrong side of the markup, the slice bends inside and prostrachivajut on the car seam to the hem with a shut cut.

In the products of wool and silk fabrics, and also knitted the cuff inside out, bend and attach to the sleeve seam to the hem with a shut cut hidden stitches by hand.

The cuff can be treated with a seam in the hem with the formation imitating cuffs. On the reverse side of the sleeve plan a line that defines the width of the cuff. Placed the lower section of the sleeve near the intended line, leaving allowance on ACC, bend inside out again and zastrugivajut fold (Fig. 325). The line a so that the lower section of the sleeve was located inside the folds. Imitating the cuff folded to the side and priorivet. Distance of stitching from the top edge of the cuff set arbitrarily.
 


The cuff can be treated with the help of piping, which is folded with sleeve, right sides inside and prostrachivajut from the piping (Fig. 326), then folded and scribbled on the seam allowance primaqiune.

The sleeve is folded inside out and sew the sections simultaneously with the ends of the piping. The seam connecting ends of piping and sleeves rautureau. The facing folded towards the inside, straighten seams, forming a kite out of the sleeves, and priorivet.

The inner edge of obcutek attached to the product as well as the inner edges of the sleeves, the treated seam to the hem.
 


When processing bottom of sleeves with elastic ends elastic bands connect the patch seam machine stitching. Width entering one end of the elastic on the other to 15 mm, the Lower section of the sleeve bends inside and zastrugivajut, at the same time putting the rubber band (Fig. 327).

If the rubber band is located at a distance from the edge to the sleeve according to the preliminary layout pritachivajut a strip of fabric, folded in half lengthwise wrong side inwards (Fig. 328). The strip is folded, closing her slices, and scribbled, putting the rubber band.
 


The order of processing of bottom of sleeves cuffed described in "Shirts".

In materials that can be easily stretchable, as well as in products with Raglan sleeve for fixing the landing on the armhole front and back lay the line, which is located at a distance of 1 - 2 mm beyond the line of vrachevanie sleeve in the direction of slices.

Sleeve stachivaya after connecting the side sections of the dress and the sections of the sleeve or to their connections. Stacked the product with the right sides inside and stachivaya in the openings on the workpiece side of the sleeves, providing pre-fit head hand ultimanium.

If the seams of the sleeves coincide with the side seams of the bodice, the sleeves connect with the openings to the grinding of the side sections. This method is more convenient because it allows faster and better distribute fit in the head sleeve when setting it in the armhole.
 


When the sleeves with semi-oval openings (Fig. 329 a) first stachivaya top (oval) of the sleeve, then scribbled on the front side of the dress bottom (straight) part, turning the slices into 10 - 15 mm and aligning the seams of the sleeves with the side seams of the bodice. Line have a distance of 1 mm from the bent edges.

When setting the sleeves that go into the yoke (Fig. 329 b), first sewn into the armhole the bottom, then slices of upper parts connected to the product as well as sections of the yoke with the bodice.

When nastraivanii yoke on okaty sleeveless (Fig. 329) the bottom stachivaya in armhole from sleeve. The edge of the yoke, pre-done or press it, scribbled on the front side of the top of the sleeve. Dresses sleeveless armholes are treated pokrainini obrazkami or obrazkami, cut at a 45° angle to the warp threads.

With the help of podgainij obcutek you can handle the openings to the junction of the side sections or after their connection. The inner sections of obcutek attached to the product along the side and shoulder seams on the machine double reverse stitching or manually.

For products made of cotton or linen inner edge of obcutek scribbled on the machine with the bending sections inside, positioning the line at a distance of 1 - 2 mm from the bent edge.

In models of woolen and silk fabrics, the inner edge is connected to the product seam to the hem with a shut cut hidden stitches by hand.



Category: The ABCs of sewing | Added by: 16.10.2017
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