Defects, causes and their solutions.

Sewing plays an important role fitting. During the fitting determines the fit in the figure, the size of the assemblies, the length of the undercuts, the correct connection of the bodice to the skirt, there is a line of neck, length of folds, clarifies the direction of the folds in the skirt, and the shape and arrangement of the finishing details. In the process of fitting can be identified deficiencies. Below are the ways to resolve them.
 

1. Shoulder seams moved to the back side, with shelves snub (Fig. 334).

The reason:the low position of the neck backless and the top of the armhole.

Fix: lengthen the back, releasing the stock throughout the length of the shoulder and slice the sprout (Fig. 334 a). If stock fabric to these sections no, the back extend through the seam allowance at the bottom, raising it on the side and cut up by the same amount deepening the armhole (Fig. 3346).

2. Shoulder seams are moved to the side of the front bodice, the back at the same usdelivery(Fig. 335).

Reason: underestimated the top of the neck, and insufficient height of the armhole of the bodice.

Fix: lengthen the front bodice, releasing the margin of the fabric across the length of the shoulder cut on the neck (Fig. 335 a). If stock fabric to these sections no front bodice extend through the seam allowance at the bottom, with a shelf at the side seam up and the same amount deepen the armhole (Fig. 335 b).
 

3. The armhole of the backrest behind and is not adjacent arm (Fig. 336).

Reason: in the design were not taken into account features of the figure - protruding shoulder blade, low shoulders.

Correction: a) with protruding blades need to make a tuck from shoulder seam back or fit the shoulder seam. If tuck is, it is possible to increase its the solution and, if necessary, to perform additional landing shoulder seam using a stock fabric at the armhole; b) if the figure has a low shoulder, take the excess fabric at the top of the openings and, if necessary, deepen it (Fig. 336).

Note. For the formation of bulges needed to fit the blades, tuck can be placed in the neck of the back, at the armhole line Basque waist (dresses with cut bodice), and in the middle seam of the back (if the back is seamed in the middle).
 

4. Armhole shelves behind and is not adjacent arm (Fig. 337).

Reasons: a) breast tuck is an insufficient solution for this shape; b) high-top of the armhole.

Fix: a) increase the solution a chest tuck using the seam allowance (Fig. 337 a); b) reduce the height of the armhole, taking excess fabric from the top, if necessary, deepen the armhole (Fig. 337 b).

Dresses of woolen fabrics to eliminate this defect it is recommended sucurity armhole shelves.

If the armhole shelves behind and is not snug on the arm and front bodice usdelivery, this means that the width of the neck is not balanced with the width of Rostock. To overcome this limitation should shoulder cut shelves to move relative to the backrest in the direction of the neck. Thus cut off the excess fabric at the neck and release the margin of the armhole.

Note. For shapes with a relatively narrow, but high and strongly projecting breast recommended breast tuck not lead from the side seam, and armhole.

5. Horizontal hall directed from the shoulder seam to the sprout (Fig. 338).

Reasons: a) insufficient width of Rostock; b) sprout excessively deepened.

Fix: a) move the shoulder seam towards the middle of the backrest to the desired value, the excess tissue to cut off the sprout and produce the same at the armhole (Fig. 338 a); b) release a stock fabric in Rostock (Fig. 338 b). In the absence of stock back redraws.
 

6. Inclined creases coming from the top of the neck (Fig. 339).

Reasons: a) mouth width not corresponds to the circumference of the neck; b) a short collar; C) a low neck top.

Fix: a) increase the width of the neck (Fig. 339 a); b) lengthen the collar, releasing the margin of the fabric at the ends; C) increase the height of the neck, releasing a stock fabric at the top of the neck, and change the direction of the shoulder cut (Fig. 339 b).

7. The neck is not snug (Fig. 340).

Reasons: a) the top of the neck is too high; b) the neck is stretched; C) width of the neck is not balanced with the width of Rostock, increased.

Fix: a) reduce the height of the neck, taking away the excess tissue at the apex (Fig. 340 a); b) stretched areas of the neck sativum; C) the shoulder cut shelves move relative to the backrest in the direction of the openings, releasing the margin of the neckline and cutting off the excess in the armhole (Fig. 340 b).

Note. If the neck is not snug in length and width, it is necessary to take the excess fabric at the top of the neck and move the shoulder cut shelves .regarding the back towards the armhole.
 

8. Horizontal crease at shoulder level on the bodice (Fig. 341).

Reasons: a) low top openings; b) one-piece collar high.

Bugfix: a) release a stock fabric at the shoulder cut, as shown in Fig. 341; b) reduce the width of the collar-stand.

9. Inclined creases extending from the front of the tuck up (Fig. 342).

Reason: enlarged the solution front tuck.

Fix: reduce the solution front tuck, taking the excess fabric in the side seam, or an additional second make a tuck (Fig. 342 a).

10. Inclined creases extending from the side seam up to the waist (Fig. 343).

Reason: increased solution side seam.

Bugfix: released a stock fabric at the side seam in the waist area and, if necessary, on the same size increase the solution front tuck (Fig. 343 a).

11. Horizontal room on the bodice to the inlet (Fig. 344).

Reason: front bodice long because of the increased height of the neck and arm openings.

Correction: reduce the length of the bodice, taking away the excess tissue along the entire length of the shoulder cut and, if necessary, at the waist line at the same time deepening the neckline and the armhole (Fig. 344 a).
 

12. Dress in the adjacent form slanted creases go from the Darts and side seams, the back is not snugly at the waist (Fig. 345).

Reason: waist length high.

Bugfix: re-obmeleet tuck, marking the new waist line (Fig. 345 a).

13. Transverse creases on the front of the top part of the sleeve (Fig. 346).

The reason: the top part of the sleeves are narrow.

Fix: extend the crown of the sleeve, releasing the margin of the tissue (Fig. 346 a), or redraw sleeve, as shown in Fig. 346 b.

14. Hem short sleeves usdelivery (Fig. 347).

Reason: short sleeve crown.

Fix: increase the height of the top part of the sleeve, releasing the margin of the tissue (Fig. 347 a), or widen the sleeve at the bottom of the crown as indicated in Fig. 347 b.