1. Processing top skirt wide elastic tape (Fig. 204 a). Mainly used in summer products from cotton fabrics. For this, the length of the skirt is double the seam allowance (Fig. 204 a), which depends on the number of rows of bands and width.
Pre-cut elastic the length equal to the length of the circumference of the waist minus 4,0 cm the ends of the bands applied to 1.0 cm on each other and fixed. The top of the skirt iron on the fold line, open cut of bends for 0.7 - 1.0 cm and priorivet. Foot with a ruler adjust to the width of the lines, when pretrazivanje the second line put the prepared gum, etc. in Front of the needle and the gum tissue has to deal, and the needle tissue should be collected on the gum. The same techniques apply when nastraivanie the following lines with inserting the elastic tape.In the absence of sewing skills, you can scribble, leaving a 1.5 - 2.0 cm for the subsequent threading of the elastic.
2. Treatment the top of the skirt to the bodice (Fig. 205 a). Grosgrain ribbon pre-soaked and filled (Sturova delaying the external and internal side), otherwise the bottom edge of the tape will not match the volume of the skirt in this part, may form the tails at the top and the skirt will begin to "creep" up. Filled with iron try on the bodice at the waist, give an allowance of 1.0 cm from the ends for ACC. Skirt is all sewn, Tacana zip. The front of the corsage, put on the face of the skirt (Fig. 205), pritachivajut seam width 1.0 cm.If the corsage is very tight, you can Topstitch it to the top of the skirt overlay and seam, in this case, on the face of the skirt is applied the underside of the corsage. Brittanny corsage folded inside out, straighten the edge of fabric, priorivet and fixed over the seams and Darts on the wrong side of the zipper with the wrong side sew the hook and loop.
3. Processing belt with belt loops (Fig. 206 a). The belt loops are indispensable in cases when we want to emphasize the waist with decorative belt. Features belt loops on the Darts and side seams, which allows to fix the detachable belt in the same place. The length of the loops equal to the width of the belt on the skirt plus 2.0 cm for processing and 0.5 cm on the freedom that the belt loops didn't pull the main belt of the skirt. The width of the belt loops is calculated as follows: two the width of the finished belt loops plus 1.4 cm for seams. The belt loops zastrugivajut and turn on the face. You can make the sides of the finishing line.Harvested loops reinforce one line while participarii belt to the top of the skirt. Then bends the second way of the belt and secured by the stitching. The belt loops can be mounted only on top of or simultaneously with the finishing line at the top of the belt (Fig. 206 b). If the belt is processed on grosgrain ribbon loops can be pre-clipped to a belt and process it together with the loops (Fig. 206).
4. Processing the notched belt (Fig. 207 a; Fig. 17 in the color insert). In this case, the belt definitely oblasnoy on the top slice. It can be any shape, curved Cape is calculated exactly in the center, the belt and pogoes should be on the strips (Fig. 207 b). On the upper side of the belt grind, seam 0.7 cm, in corners cut and turn on the face, spawn. Further processing is similar to processing a conventional belt. After protecive belt at its top and bottom to lay the finishing line. Curly toe can be underlined by the decoration.
5. Processing on-seam pocket (Fig. 208 a). The most simple pocket used in skirts. If the product is made of lightweight fabric, the details of the four neskowin (Fig. 208 b) you can take the main fabric if the skirt is of a more dense fabric, burlap is made of thin white cotton or lining fabric and additionally need two parts Podzorov (Fig. 208 b green dotted line). Two scribbled burlap valances, join side seams, leaving opening for pocket. Then to the allowance for seams sew the burlap to the back panel of the burlap with the valance, since it will go under the entrance to the pocket.The seam of the cloth back after pretrazivanja burlap dissected (Fig. 208). Burlap pieces, grind off the seam width 1.0 cm, overcast slices. At the entrance of the pocket on the front side to make the tie (Fig. 208 g).
6. The machining of pockets in skirts, swords (Fig. 209 a). For building parts-of-pocket plan a line of the pocket on one of the wedges to the top of the finished burlap, separately build the burlap and the lower part of the wedge.
The skirt turns out these wedges with pockets two. In Fig. 209 b shows the details: 1 - upper part of the wedge with a half sack; 2 - burlap, on which warp yarn is directed at the entrance of the pocket (or under the seam you need to put an edge that protects the pocket from stretching); 3 - the lower part of the wedge.
To the bottom of the wedge, sew the burlap 2, turn on the face, fix the finishing line, is applied to the upper part of the wedge is folded and stitched hem. At the entrance make the clips on the sides which would then be included in the side and front seams (figure 209).
Skirts can be used and pockets used in the pants.
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