Translations of Darts on the bodice is
Symmetrical options.
1. Translation lapel tucks into the Assembly at the waist (Fig. 348). To build waist was more uniform, preferably a breast tuck not translate at one site and distribute on two or three areas (Fig. 348 a). Scheduled equal intervals in the waist line (in this case 1/3 of the width of the part) and connect these points with the top of the chest tuck. The pattern is cut along the planned lines, close a breast tuck, reveal two Darts at the waist. As expected, the Assembly, the waistline of the bodice down from the template (Fig. 348 b).
2. Translation lapel tucks into the neck (Fig. 349; Fig. 44 in the color inset). You need to determine its location, to connect a point on the neck with the top of the tuck (Fig. 349 a). Then the pattern cut along the line to open a new tuck out of the neck, chest, close (Fig. 349 b).
If the translation lapel tucks into the neck it is supposed to build (in summer dresses), from the neck to the top of the lapel Darts send several lines (Fig. 349), cut them open, and the amount of tuck to evenly distribute the neck. A new line of the neck mold draw a smooth line (Fig. 349 g).
3. Translation lapel Darts in the armhole (Fig. 350). Should be applied to pattern a new line of its location from the armhole to the top (Fig. 350 a). The pattern on this line is cut, then a breast tuck close. Center Darts from the armhole does not reach to the top of the lapel darting at 2 - 3 cm (Fig. 356 b).
You can transfer breast tuck and undercut from the armhole. Parallel to the shoulder seam plan a line of podraza (length 8 - 10 cm). An incision is made through talavou tuck, peak lapel, darting (Fig. 350). A tuck from shoulder to podraza closed, and the lower, open part of the chest darting gathers. If the Assembly is not enough detail pushing for another 5 - 10 cm (in this case, it is possible to give a seam allowance of podraza at 1.0 cm from each side. Closer to the center seam podraza eroding, as tuck). Then close talavou tuck, smoothly bringing the waistline of the bodice (Fig. 350 g).First prisebirch the lower part of podraza, then it cuts to equalize the armhole, the Assembly is uniformly distributed across the undercut, the item grind, sections were treated with a zigzag guiding the seam up. The seam may be trimmed with stitching.
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