10. Translation lapel tuck in two or three shoulder pleats (Fig, 357). From the sides of the chest Darts to postpone 2 - 3 cm (depending on which preferably the distance between the folds) to connect these points with the peak lapel Darts (Fig. 357 a). The pattern to be cut along the planned lines, close a breast tuck, and tuck the solution is to open two new locations (Fig. 357 b). These tuck at a distance of 4 - 5cm from shoulder line zastrahovatsja and couturaud.

For the formation of three folds from shoulder also outline the new line of Darts, from the sides of the chest Darts (Fig. 357). The pattern is cut along the planned lines, primeryayut solution chest Darts at the shoulder, is divided into three parts. This value will be a solution of each of the three Darts. At the cut lines open two new tuck and a breast tuck basis to reduce the size of new Darts (Fig. 357 g). All the Darts then make out in soft folds from the front side of the folds can be secured to the finishing line.If solution a chest tuck for the formation of the three folds is not enough, you can shoulder seam to translate and talavou the tuck (Fig. 357, d). These folds are not recommended for hard tissue, the folds should lie instead.
 

11. Transfer the breast and talavou recesses in the undercut under the breast (the so-called cut of "Empire" is very well accentuates the figure). If the dress potrebnoe waist or want to save talavou tuck, the undercut translate only the breast tuck. Undercut under the breast can be Assembly top or a tuck (Fig. 358), it depends on the characteristics of the shape (Fig. 41 in the color inset).

The pattern across the top of talavou Darts from the side seam to the middle of the shelf plan a line of podraza. The tops of talavou and chest Darts on the connecting line (Fig. 358 a). The pattern of the part cut along the line podraza, on the lower shelves close talavou tuck, line podraza smoothly draw the patterns. Top shelf is cut along the line connecting the two Darts on the basics. Open a new tuck, breast close. Through podraza given the seam allowance to every detail of 1.0 cm (Fig. 358 b).

In order to undercut under the breast to make Assembly, line podraza up to the top of the chest tuck outline a few lines (for a uniform distribution assemblies; Fig. 358). After the pattern is cut on the line podraza, cut the line at the top of the bodice to the top of the chest tuck reveal several small Darts at the line of podraza, which then draw a smooth line ruching pin tuck close. Lines podraza to connect the top and lower shelf is given a seam allowance of 10 cm for each part (Fig. 358 g).Line podreza can be stitched with decorative stitching on the bottom part.