15. Translation lapel tucks into the line of the yoke passing through the line of the chest (Fig. 362; Fig. 52 in the color inset). Mainly used in combined products geometric solutions. If you don't want to do talavou tuck, on the pattern of the shelf to hold the line of the yoke through the top of the chest Darts (Fig. 362). This line pattern is cut, the yoke pin tuck close, getting the new lower section of a yoke. The volume shelves in the finished product is created by seam primaqiune yoke to the shelf. To every detail along the seam of the connection details is given an allowance of 1.0 ( Fig. 362 b).If you want to get more attached to the product with a yoke connecting the tops of the lapel and talavou tucks and outline through the top of the breast tuck line of the yoke (Fig. 362). The pattern on the planned line is cut, the yoke close a breast tuck on the bottom of the shelves - talavou. Make new slices, add to the seam primaqiune yoke to the shelf at 1.0 cm for each part (Fig. 362 g).

When handling products with such yoke must be careful not to stretch the transverse seam. The pre-seam is better to sweep away, with stitching detail seam not pull when razoruzhenie or autoimune not to pull, and only spread to the sides, stroking in three steps: the sides and middle separately, plot the center of the chest to work gently with tip of iron. Easier to do correctly than to eliminate samini from improper Ironing.
 

16. Transfer the breast and talavou tucks in relief from the armhole with a slight tuck from the center of the relief (Fig. 363). Mainly used in products for full figures where I want to achieve a calmer line. Relief passing through the top breast tuck (Fig. 352) has a steep shape and requires certain skills in the process.

The pattern details plan a line of relief from the line, armholes, short on 4 - 5 cm to the top of the chest tucks, and to the top of talavou tuck. In the narrowest place of the peak lapel Darts connect with the line of the relief, put a check mark on the lateral part (Fig. 363 a). The pattern is cut, talavou tuck cut. The segment connecting the top of the chest tuck with a relief cut, pin tuck close, and the new cut tuck open.For the compounds according to the topography lines to every detail pripuskaet on the seam 1.0 cm, on the side of the shelves is transferred control mark (Fig. 363 b). When grinding parts tuck shelves should coincide with the reference mark on the sidewall. In the thick fabrics that tuck can be cut in the middle after grinding and resuturing.
 

17. Transfer the breast and talavou tucks in relief under the yoke (Fig. 364). Mainly used in the products of adjacent silhouette or sports style. Connect the vertices chest and tucks talavou plan a line yoke (yoke can be anyone - straight, rounded; if the yoke and the corners, corners have to match the reliefs on the shelf).

In this case, the yoke parts a breast tuck into two parts (Fig. 364 a). The pattern is cut along the intended line of the yoke, cover the upper part of the chest tuck, tweak the cut out of the yoke (at the point of closure and breast Darts make a test mark which must match the terrain). Then cut the pattern along the line connecting the tops of the Darts at the same time carving out a tuck at the waist and the remaining part of the chest tuck. For the connection of the anterior and lateral parts of the shelves given the seam allowance 1.0 cm.To connect these parts with the yoke also give the seam allowance of 1.0 cm To the edge of the yoke stand the test mark, with which the grinding parts call raised seam (Fig. 364 b). First grind off the seam width 1.0 cm (or any width depending on the width of the finishing stitches) front and side panel shelves, do if there is in the model, the finishing line. Then connect these details with a Flirty, combining a raised seam with a check mark on edge of yoke.