18. Transfer the breast and talavou tucks in two large soft pleats, converging in the center at the waist(Fig. 365). Used in loose tissues, so as not to make unnecessary seams. With front side pleats are directed toward each other (inverted pleats).
For transfer connect the vertices tucks, plan a line of the folds (Fig. 365). Cut the pattern according to the planned lines, close all Darts are opening a new location in the section (Fig. 365 b). When sewing the first thing smatyvay pleats and basting removed only in the finished product, if necessary, the widest part of the folds to 3 - 4 cm prietaisams, in General, the folds remain soft, without hard pressed sides.
19. Transfer the breast and talavou tucks in the Assembly or in three folds in the center of the bodice at the waist (Fig. 366). Suitable for slender, slim figures. The translation is performed in the area between the two talevich tucks. Connect the vertices of the Darts on the framework plan places the folds at the waist (they can then be turned into an Assembly if needed on the model). In this case, the area between the middle shelf and the front of talavou tuck is divided into four parts obtained three points on the waist line connect with the top breast tuck (Fig. 366 a). According to the planned lines, the pattern is cut, close a breast tuck and televie, in places cut new lines reveal a tuck of equal size (Fig.366 b). Received Darts in turn at the crease when sewing zastrugivajut from the waist line of 6 - 7 cm long, with the folds parallel to each other and the middle shelves. The free ends of the folds do not iron, priorivet only jotted part of the folds.
20. Transfer the breast and talavou tucks in relief, passing through the line of the chest in the side seams at the waist line (Fig. 367). Connect the vertices tucks, plan a line of elevation on the pattern, on the tops of the chest Darts on the put check-marks (Fig. 367 a). Relief better to do a rounded shape, so easier to handle. For treatment of corners on the relief need certain skills and a great care. The pattern is cut along the lines of relief, you close all the Darts, draw topography lines on the top and bottom shelves, to give a seam allowance of 1.0 cm for connection details. On the edge of the parts carry reference marks (Fig. 367 b).
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