21. Translated by talavou tuck in relief, passing through the lapel dart in the side seam (Fig. 368) or across the line of the chest from armhole to side seam. For relief extending from the shoulder through the chest tuck, the top of talavou and ending in the side seam, schedule line. At the bottom of the relief is directed parallel to the waist line. In place of the curvature of the terrain, the vertex point of talavou tuck, put reference marks for exact connection details in the future (Fig. 368 a). The pattern of the part cut along the line of the relief, cut the breast tuck, decorate the side of the shelves, then closed talavou tuck, make a relief cut the front of the shelves.To connect the parts carry reference marks (Fig. 368 b). When autoimune seam elevation towards the front of the shelf seam allowance on the front of the curve to cut the lines in several places, if this is not done, the seam will pull.
The relief coming from the line of openings through the top of the chest and talavou tucks and ending in the side seam, the bottom line is parallel to the waist line. Plan a line elevation angle at the bottom (Fig. 368). On the pattern shelf cut out side, closed the chest and talavou tuck (Fig. 368 g). The line relief is given allowance for the seam joining parts of 1.0 cm When grinding parts for ease of handling the angle in elevation of the front of the shelves are cut only on the value of the width of the joint (if you cut more, the junction may be formed a hole).In the presence of the finishing stitches on the side part can be connected in two steps, separately on each side, not reaching the angle at 3.0, see the Angle side of the shelf and then straightened, namachivajut on the shelf and fix the finishing line.
22. Transfer the breast and talavou tucks into the undercut of the shoulder assemblies (Fig. 369). The pattern of shelves put a line of podraza (Fig. 369 a). The pattern is cut, talavou tuck first transferred to the breast, then a breast tuck is closed, part of it remains on the Assembly under the undercut.
For grinding of podraza given an allowance of 1.0 cm (Fig. 369 b). First prisebirch part with the Assembly, and then connect both parts and sew a seam width of 10 cm, to the centre seam comes to naught, as in the dart.
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