Asymmetric options.

In an asymmetric solution to transfer darted details draw mostly folds or Assembly, as the result of a simulation obtained new Darts in different lengths and different sizes.
 

1. Transfer all the Darts on the bodice in a raised seam, extending from the left shoulder across the tops of the chest Darts to the corner of the right side seam or Vice versa (Fig. 370).

The pattern of the shelf there is a line topography (Fig. 370 a). The pattern is cut along the planned line, close the chest and televue tuck, leaving a seam allowance of 1.0 cm for the connection of the parts (Fig. 370 b). Relief can be resutured, press it and finished stitching.
 

2. Transfer all the Darts on the bodice in pleats under the side shelves (Fig. 371). The pattern shelves outline the form of a barrel extending from the armholes to the waist line next to talesai the tuck. Line barrel through equal distances in four places connected with the Darts on the shelves.

These lines are lines of folds, where the fold with the sideways shelves put reference marks (Fig. 371 a). The pattern cut out detail, a barrel, according to the planned lines to the tops of the Darts on the pattern and cut it open, close all tuck basics and in places cuts open a new tuck. To connect the side parts with the shelf are given the seam allowance 1.0 cm, on the edge of the side parts carry the reference mark, when grinding parts with these marks of the folds are combined (Fig. 371 b).Folds zametyvayut and steer with the front side up, after the connection with the lateral part of the beginning of the folds can priotity.
 

3. Transfer all the Darts on the bodice in three folds on the shoulder (Fig. 372). Outline the pattern on the fold lines. The area between the neckline and front chest Darts is divided into three parts, one crease going from the place of the chest tuck. The point of the shoulder connected to the top of the second breast Darts and teleway the tuck (Fig. 372 a). The pattern is cut first line, and close a breast tuck, cut a second line, close talavou tuck. A third line cut on the front side of the chest Darts through the line connecting the two Darts, close talavou tuck and more open chest tuck.In places cuts open folds (Fig. 372 b). From the front crease pointing toward the neck. When sewing pleats before the end of the work must remain in good form. When Ironing the finished product part of the folds in the shoulder area can be pritajeni to maintain their direction.

4. Transfer all the Darts in the Assembly on the shoulder (Fig. 373). The shoulder line is divided into equal segments (in this case seven segments) and connect with all the Darts on the bodice. If the drapery or Assembly is scheduled for left shoulder, left chest tuck close partially, and the rest tuck close completely (Fig. 373 a). The pattern is cut along the planned lines, close both televue tuck and one breast. Along the lines of the cut part open, the shoulder line with the Assembly draw a smooth line (Fig. 373 b). This translation of Darts suitable only for soft, thin fabrics.The size of the assemblage and its distribution can be specified on the fitting.
 

5. The translation of all the Darts on the bodice, pleats at shoulder and side seam on one side (Fig. 374). From the shoulder to the chest Darts on the planned cutting line, the lines must not cross a breast tuck. For a more uniform distribution of the folds of a breast tuck, you can move on the shoulder to the desired value. From the line of the side seam to the tops talevich tucks outline lines of future folds (Fig. 374). First cut line towards the breast tuck breast tuck closing, open pleats at the shoulder. Then cut the lines towards the vertices talevich tucks, close televue tuck, open folds in areas of breakdown (Fig. 374 b).Lay the folds, or they can be jotted on a 4 - 5 cm from the beginning.