Varieties of sleeves 

Women's clothing can vary due to the different options of sleeves. Below shows types of sleeves and methods for the production of patterns typical straight sleeves.
 

1. Short sleeve with banded cuff (Fig. 375). On the basis of a long straight one-piece sleeve a line short outline, from the top of the crown lay the desired length, equating the sides of (Fig. 375). The pattern is cut, to cut lines and add a seam allowance of 1.0 cm to primaqiune cuff (Fig. 375 b). The shape of the bottom of the short sleeve cuffs are building a width of 5.0 cm, adding 1.0 cm for turning the bottom of the sleeve, 1.0 cm for felling cuff at the top (Fig. 375). Stitch sleeve hem cuff, the cuff folded over face and scribbled on the sleeve.The cuff may be of a fabric finishing or when nastraivanii cuffs can be attached edging of a finishing fabric or braid.

2. Short sleeve "flashlight" (Fig. 376). On the basis of single-joint sleeves outline the length of the short sleeves, equalize lateral side (Fig. 376 a). Short sleeve spend a vertical line, on which the sleeve is cut and pushing it to 10 - 15 cm (depending on desired volume). Draw a line okata, which is higher than the basis, 2 - 3 cm, hem line, and the long sleeves draw a smooth line with a deflection in the middle into 2 - 3 cm. These 2 - 3 cm at the top and bottom need to create the volume sleeve, not only in width but also in length (Fig. 376 b).This version of the sleeve was processed as follows: the Assembly is going to the top part of the sleeve (on the value of the length of the openings), the bottom of the sleeve (on the value of arm circumference in the upper part). Bottom sleeve banded.

If you intend to sleeve "flashlight" handle at the bottom elastic tape, plan a line of protecive rubber and added a length of 3.0 cm for the formation of ruffles at the bottom (Fig. 376). First treated bottom sleeve twist or edging, then lines scribbled a zigzag elastic band (cut her on the arm circumference), elastic string, and the sleeve under the zigzag evenly priporashivajut. Grind off the seam of the sleeve and then assemble the Assembly on the crown. Thus, the sleeve is prepared for production.
 

3. Sleeves, extended at the bottom (Fig. 377). Wide sleeve to the bottom and processed rolikam or narrow the cuff to be developed on the basis of a long one-piece sleeves. Outline cut lines for wiring sleeve width (Fig. 377). According to the planned lines pattern sleeves were cut short by 1.0 cm to okata, then encircle the sleeve, revealing each slit 3 - 4cm (depending on the desired volume expansion on the bottom, (Fig 377). Sleeve hem prisoneres, an amount equal to the girth of the wrist +2 - 3 cm for loose fit.

For sleeves, extended and ending at the bottom of the wide cuff (10 - 15 cm), schedule line length to the cuffs and cut lines of the pattern for modeling (Fig. 377). The pattern is first cut off horizontally along the line, then cut on vertical lines, not reaching the crown at 10 cm Sleeve divorces in places cut into 5 to 6 cm Draw smooth line of the bottom of the sleeves (Fig. 377 g). The cuff is adapted to the sleeve length (equal parts cut off from the bases of sleeves when you build), the width of the cuff at the bottom depends on the girth of the wrist at the top of the circumference of the hand at this point (Fig. 377 d).As the cuff is narrow, there is closure and no allowance for free customized fit.
 

4. Sleeve narrow throughout length (Fig. 378). Obtained from a one-piece straight sleeve. At the bottom of the sleeve primeryayut width, compared to the measure of the circumference of the wrist, the excess lay in a big tuck from the elbow to the bottom. Tuck passes through the elbow of the sleeve (Fig. 378 a). At the bottom of the sleeves leaving the seam allowance on the free fit 2 - 3 cm.

Translations for tuck in the elbow seam at the elbow line chart new line tuck the elbow, connect the elbow seam with the top of the Darts on the pattern (Fig. 378 a). The pattern sleeve is cut along the planned line, close the tuck coming from the bottom line, opening a new tuck at the elbow joint. The front seam of the direct can be done with a deflection, leaving through the elbow 1 - 1.5 cm (Fig. 378 b).
 

5. A sleeve extended at the top and decorated on top part folds (Fig. 379). At the bottom of the sleeve to narrow to a width equal to the circumference of the wrist. From the line of the crown outline the directions of the folds (Fig. 379 a). Folds can be very diverse - counter, box, aimed to the side shelves or in the back side. The pattern sleeve from a cut crown, not reaching 1.7 cm to hem along the lines of the cut sleeve pushing on the value of folds (2 to 4 cm). Line of the crown is made of smooth line (II in Fig. 379 b). If you leave line 1, resulting in the wiring, this can be shortages for some reason for the new sleeves.And the resulting volume lifts the shoulders, you can fill in and keep the shoulder pad.
 

6. Sleeve "wing" and the ruffles on the armhole (Fig. 380). To design the sleeves of the"wing" on the basis of direct sleeves outline the desired length of the "wing" equalize the sides and hold the bottom line. From the bottom of the scheduled 2 - 3 cm vertical incision lines (Fig. 380 a). The pattern is cut according to the intended line and then before reaching the crown of 1.0 cm, is cut along the vertical lines. The resulting pattern is applied to the paper and translating, throwing her in the places of incisions of 1.5 - 2 cm more or less, depending on the desired width of the "wing" on the bottom (Fig 380).

Armhole dress or Bathrobe, you can arrange the frill (Fig. 380). If more than one of the flounces, they must be of different widths in the center, but the same configuration, so only the first build, the smaller the ball, the rest completed. In this case, gather first all the ruffles in the middle and on the line of primaqiune, then combine them with the armhole, which is handled by the facing in the form of openings or enclosed with the strip of cloth.
 

7. Sleeve kokila (Fig. 381). Such sleeve serves mainly as decoration in fancy clothes, especially if done in several layers. Built in the square, for which the compass is carried out two circles (4 and 15 cm), which then connect a smooth line (Fig. 381 a). At the inner expanded part of kokila is sewn to the armhole.

The outer part can be trimmed with a twist, for greater rigidity and splendor under the twist, you can lay a thin line which will give the beautiful curves of the stretched outer edge of kokila.

Is kokila in four or five layers, so you should expect from need tissue. If desired, the dimensions can be increased or decreased, but all layers must be the same size.