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Home » Articles » The ABCs of sewing

National clothes

The national dress of Central Asia is very popular not only among the indigenous and European population of Uzbekistan.
The few publications on traditional national clothes are of considerable interest, as they help to trace the development of one of the parties of the material culture of the Uzbek people, its ethnic and cultural ties with other Nations and ethnic groups of Central Asia.
A kind of traditional shape and fit are the main types of clothing Uzbeks have survived for centuries and are currently in use for everyday wear and as ceremonial clothing. At the same time, today, traditional forms of national clothing undergo certain changes, succumbing to fashion trends.
Traditional clothing can be divided according to destinations.


So, wearable women's clothes from the last century was the tunic-like dress casual - kulak (Fig. 382 a,b). The second main part of the suit - the dead trousers - lozim (Fig. 383), Contracting at the waist by a belt of braid or elastic band. Hem edge narrow woven ribbons and embroidered - jiak, the ends of which are formed by brushes. Width and length of the trousers is different. Youth is shorter and more narrowed down.

To the top women's clothing include cotton quilted robes - copony tunic cut, which is somewhat different from the cut of men's bathrobes. The gate of the women's robe is more open and wide, it is not zastrugivajut and not embroider, bead of the women's robe is almost not converge. The sleeves are a little shorter and looser than in the men's coats.


Specific women's clothing is the robe-Kursk (Fig 384) or Caltech (Fig. 385). After joining Russia in Central Asia entered a new form of clothing - a jacket or kamzol (Fig. 386). It is a little narrowed at the waist robes with a short and narrow sleeves, with a more classic cut arm-hole and a collar, sometimes with a strap, pockets on the sides, occasionally with a breast pocket.

In the same period appeared a short tank top - nimcha. Nimcha as a kind of clothing is widely used to this day, sew it mainly of dark velvet or plush. Tank top is the necessary accessory of women's national costume. For the male national dress is the same cut characteristic, regardless of age. From the last century to our time widespread men's shirt - ahtac (Fig. 387) It's sewn from cotton fabric, worn by young and old. Its length at different times had changed and now accepted above the knees. Collar of the shirt is quilted on the machine with the stitches in several rows. Chest single button or a thin drawstring from the same fabric.

Along with the shirt yakhtak indigenous locals (mostly elderly people) are wearing harem pants for men - iston (Fig. 388). The trousers are made of cotton fabric, as this type of clothing are basically like underwear. At the top of the pants is very wide, get narrow at the bottom and go up to the ankles. At the top of the pants hem and prodelyvat lace which is tightened. Over the shirt men wear a hinged robe - chopon (Fig. 389 a,b). Robes remained mostly tunic cut in two variants.

The first option gown out of the whole cloth is folded down, forming front and back without seams at shoulders. Perpendicular to the cloth mill, with no cut of the armholes are sewn directly straight or somewhat narrowed to the ends of the sleeve. In the armpit is almost always insert a gusset, and side wedges in the form of an elongated truncated triangle, sew them to the camp of the slanting sides.

The second option - the mill men's bathrobes consists of two panels of equal width, stitched together. Kinked across the cloth forms the back (with seam), the front and top of the sleeve, which is obtained by cutting out under the sleeve of a wedge, facing the top down. On the floors of the robe on both sides, make vertical cuts for easy with step. Collar, floor, hemline, edge sleeveless sheathe narrow woven ribbon or strip of cloth. On chest sew two ties. Bathrobes sew unlined, lined, winter - with a strip of wool.
From the mid 19th century in the cities came into Voguejackets - camsur (Fig. 390) - the dull coat without cutting back, without lapels, stand collar. It was worn over the shirt under the gown, and in summer, worn without the robe.
All of these major traditional national dress, which appeared in the last century, has reached our time almost unchanged.
Design women's national dress also has not undergone significant changes (Fig. 391). Its main details: mill front mill, the back, sleeves, yoke front, yoke back and collar. The yoke cut out dress necessarily pocketkai, as the yoke lining is more durable and better retain their shape. Flirty backless can be lined with another fabric, and the lining of the yoke of the front is made from the main fabric. If there is podbot and collar, the part of the lining of the yoke of the front to podborta can be made from a different cloth.A variety of patterns of national dresses is achieved at the expense of the fabric pattern and different shapes of the yoke and collars.
Especially popular are ensembles of traditional national fabrics - Khan-Atlas, beqasams, Alpaca, chiffon, crepe de Chine, and velvet. In modern smart products are widely used suzani and velvet with national embroidery gold or silver thread.


Fig. 391



Category: The ABCs of sewing | Added by: 16.10.2017
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