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Home » Articles » The ABCs of sewing

Pants

Parts cut trousers.
 


Complete details cut of the trousers (Fig. 249) a lot of parts that are not constant and vary depending on the model.

From the main fabric cut the following parts: a - front half of pants - 2 pieces; - a back part of trousers - 2; in - fly - 1; g - otcasek - 1; d - zone (two parts) - 1; e - the valance side pockets - 2; W - flap back pockets - 1; s - facing back pockets - 2; - belt loops - 5, 6 parts (depending on model).

The front halves of trousers can be with a single cut shoulder obrazkami side pockets, tselnokrajnimi fly and otrokom (Fig. 250,b).
 


When sewing trousers of woolen fabric and lined with lining fabric cut the following details: the lining under the front halves of trousers - 2 details lining fly - 1, facing the bow of -1 (on the left front half of the pants), lining valve rear pocket - 1, valance rear pocket - 1 detail.

Of the cushioning material or of unbleached calico cut out the following details: burlap side pocket - 2 details, burlap,back pocket - 1 detail strip in waistband - 1 detail (in two parts).

 Processing of small parts. Belt loops for pants can be processed in two ways: obecnie lining (if belt loops are 2 cm wide and more) and unlined seam to hem (with a width of 1 cm).

The loops on the lining cut out it's part of the main fabric 0.5 cm the belt Loops fold the lining, right sides inside, the equity side of the uppers and lining equalize and grind from the side lining seam width of 5 mm. the belt Loops are turned on the front side, straighten edges and priorivet, forming the edging of the details of the top side of the lining width of 2 mm (Fig. 251 a).

Narrow loops with a width of 1 cm can be processed without lining seam to the hem with one shut cut with pre-serged the other slice (Fig. 251 6).

When machining the valve back pocket lining already cut out the valve from the underlying tissue to 2 mm on each side. The lining flap fold right sides inwards and smatyvay side valve straight stitches with a length of 5 - 10 mm distance from the slice 4 mm, making the landing of the main fabric in the corners and curves. Then a valve grind on a car with a seam width of 5 mm. Thread smachivaniya removed, the suture is cut, leaving 3 mm, and angles - 1 - 2 mm.Then turn the valve on the front side, edges and corners straighten and spawn, forming the edge of the main fabric to the lining side with a width of 1 mm. Valve priorivet, fix the edge finishing stitching at a distance of 1 - 2 mm from the edge. Then on the flap outlining the line defining its width.
 


 Fly - this item is intended for processing of the left cut of the bow. Fly treated lining. Fold it with the lining, right sides inside, equalizing the outer slices and grind in the lining seam width of 5 mm. the Seam turn and straighten, forming the edge of the main fabric in the direction of the lining 2 mm in width. Kant reinforce the stitching from the lining at a distance of 1 - 2 mm from the edge (Fig. 252). Then outline the location of the loops, the upper loop is located at a distance of 15 - 20 mm from the top edge.For marking the other loops measured in the finished pants distance from seam protecive belt clip of the bow and divide by the number of stitches plus 1. The distance from the hinge to the edge of the buttonhole 8 mm. the Length of the loop should be larger than the diameter of 2 mm. buttons on the Loops located on the fly below the seam protecive belt, make inclined at an angle of 18 - 20° downwards.

Loop overcast on a typewriter or by hand. The inner edge of the fly on overcast zigzag. Ready to fly priorivet.

Widespread treatment of the fly lining of the left front half of the pants. For this fly from the main fabric and the lining of the left front half fold, right sides inside, call the outer slices and grind from the side of the lining. Joint width 5 mm. the details of the turn, straighten the edges, forming the edge of the main fabric towards the lining width 1 - 2 mm. Kant reinforce the stitching from the lining at a distance of 2 mm from the edge.

Loop scheduled and overcast from the lining, as described above.



Category: The ABCs of sewing | Added by: 16.10.2017
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