Sewing pants 

Sewing of any pants is always primaqiune supers (wedges) if they have been provided for when cutting articles (for the rational use of the fabric) and stitching the tucks.

Extensions or wedges the rear halves of the pants first primetyvajut, and then pritachivajut a seam width of 1 cm, the Basting is removed, the seams rautureau, and sometimes zastrugivajut on the side seam width of 1 mm from the edge. Sections of seams primaqiune supers previously overcast.

Darting at front and rear halves of the pants grind on pre-planned lines, bringing the line to the end of the tuck. Detail when it is folded face inward, the front half is folded on the middle line. Tuck into soft pleats, sew on a distance of 3 - 4 cm from the upper edge of the trousers. Seams folded and iron inside out at the side of the slice. Tuck on the rear halves of the pants iron toward the middle of the seam.

Very responsible and important stage in the manufacture of pants is wet-heat processing, which is mainly (as the design) depends on a good fit on the figure.

Wet-heat treatment starts with the front halves of trousers. Fold them right sides inside, equalizing the sections were positioned on the table side sections to a running. The section is cut from the bottom to a-line knee stretch for 10 - 12 mm. the Resulting slack of the fabric staiway to the middle of the front halves of trousers. In the same way, handle stepper slices (Fig. 253 a).
 

Then the parts turn other side and repeat the wet-heat treatment is the other half of the pants.

After pulling the side and the stepper sections of the halves of the pants, divide and fold each separately face inward so that in the area from a bottom to a-line knee length side cut coincided with the stepper, and then a bend was directed to bend the upper front pleats, upper end of a step cut was made over the lateral cut 10 - 15 mm (Fig. 253 b). Folded thus halves moisturize, storevault to bend at the knee and below for smooth lines SAG under the knee and slightly bend priorivet.For the final fixing of the shape a half turn and repeat the techniques stivania. Wet-heat treatment is done properly if the side and stepping seams in the folded-in-half trousers half almost straight or close to straight line. The rear halves of the pants is folded, right sides inside, equalizing sections, and laid out on the table stepper slices to working.Then moisturize the area around the upper part of a step cut (to the knee) and a medium cut trousers, a hand take the edge of the extension (apex stepper cut) and by moving the iron, prolonging the step cut 15 - 20 mm, bringing its configuration to a straight line (Fig. 254 a). At the same time pulled the average slice on the site of the largest recesses, reserving half of the trousers towards the side seam. The resulting slack staiway to the middle of the half. Halves of the pants are turned over and repeat the same techniques on the other hand.Then divide the halves and fold each separately face inward so that in the area from a bottom to a-line knee length side cut coincided with the stepper, the sections of the bottom was smooth, and then fold should be directed to the upper part of the middle slice. In the upper part of the step cut must defend from the side cut by the same amount which he came out of the side slice (Fig. 2546) at the top of the front halves.The rear halves of the trousers can be folded, as mentioned above, only right side out, in this case, further wet-heat treatment need to be run through a moistened piece of calico or gauze.

In this position, give the final shape of the rear halves of the pants, satwiwa bend parts under the buttocks, i.e. opposite the upper phase stepper cut, thus obtaining a smooth concave line. In tight pants pulling a small bend of the rear halves perform against calf muscles, Sturova the sections in the area between the knee and the bottom of the trousers, as indicated in Fig. 254 b.
 

Bend slightly priorivet formed in a bend of slack sativum. In the mass production of the rear halves of the pants are molded on presses with special pillows.

Trousers with the lining of her cut out of silk lining fabric for the front halves of trousers, but it should not reach the bottom at 15 - 20 cm warp yarn should follow the same process as the front half of the pants of the main fabric.

The lining is designed to protect the trousers at the knees from stretching and to maintain the shape imparted to the trousers when the wet-heat treatment.

As the silk lining gives greater shrinkage, before you reveal her moisten and ironed to remove moisture or to soak and dry.

The lower section of lining cut small teeth or zastrugivajut edge seam to the hem with a shut cut. The lining laid out on the table, face down, on the wrong side of the lining is applied the front halves of the pants facing up, stack the slices and namachivajut details manually direct a running stitch with a length of 30 - 35 mm along the side and step cut at a distance of 15 - 20 mm from the edge of the slice. At the same time lay the folds under the folds on the front halves of trousers. The lining is bonded with the detail of the main fabric while serging slices on the machine.

In front and rear halves of the pants overcast side, stepper and medium-sized slices (cut the seats), cutting the right front bow halves, and the lower sections of the pants, if hem bottom with an open cut. Trousers without lining slices overcast immediately after the wet-heat treatment.