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Home » Articles » The ABCs of sewing

Pants

Treatment of side pockets and side seams of the pants. Side pockets can be processed in the side seam in the frame on the front halves of trousers or in the seams of the front halves of trousers. To handle pockets in the side seams need the following details: facing from the main fabric - 1 detail, the valance of the main fabric - 1 pocket from burlap fabric - 1 detail (maybe in two parts).
 


On forward halves of trousers put two the notch (depth 10 mm) that define the location and size of the pocket. For protection of the upper edge of the pocket from stretching on the reverse side of the area between nasecki pave edge (Fig. 256 a) at a distance of 10 mm from the edge, landing on the fabric 3 to 4 mm. In loose tissues fit you can make the most in hard tissues, giving a low shrinkage, it should not exceed 3 mm. Outer edge of the edges sutured manually blind stitch stitches invisible from the front side. Frequency stitches 2 - 3 to 10 mm.For securing the inner edge of the edge of every 40 - 50mm put the cross-stitch. Fit main fabric sativum.
In the presence of the adhesive edge with double-sided coating of the adhesive edge is adhered with slight tension. The inner edge of the piping to bend in the direction of inside 5 - 7 mm and iron. The facing is applied to the burlap and scribbled the inner edge at a distance of 1 mm from the bend. Allowed nastraivanie piping without bending the cut inside, but with the pre-buttonhole its inner and lower sections.
Obtachku with Hessian impose face on the front side of the front halves of trousers (Fig. 256 b), the upper sections of the piping and the front halves of trousers call and grind the area between nasecki seam width of 5 mm. Seam grinding rautureau, obtachku with burlap turn inside out the front halves of trousers; the spawn region, forming in the direction of the piping edge with a width of 5 mm, priorivet and fix the finishing line at a distance of 7 mm from the edge (Fig. 256).
On the front side of the rear halves of the pants on the site of the location of the pocket is applied over the front half of the trousers facedown (Fig. 256 g), equating sections, and from the inside pull the loose end of the burlap, equating the upper cut the upper cut rear halves, and pritachivajut from valance seam width 8 - 9 mm. Seam primaqiune rautureau valance, burlap wrap around his cut, inner cut valance bends on 5 - 7 mm inside and scribbled on the burlap at a distance of 1 mm from the bent edge (Fig. 256 d).The front and rear halves of the pants is folded, right sides inside the side sections of the call and smatyvay on the front half at a distance of 8 - 9 mm from the edge of the straight stitches with a length of 10 to 15 mm. In this case do fit the rear halves of the pants on the part of the pocket 3 to 5 mm, and in other areas of the part smatyvay without landing and tension. Skiving is performed by the front halves of trousers, clipping the beginning and end of the stitching at the ends of the side pocket to the reverse machine stitching. Thread smachivaniya removed.Seams moisturize and rautureau in two steps: first, a section from the lower end of the pocket to the bottom, and then from the upper edge of the trousers to the upper end of the pocket, then a seam in this area iron toward the front halves of trousers. Simultaneously straighten and priorivet the edge of the pockets. Burlap straighten, turn on the front side and sew on distance 4 - 5 mm slices, and then turn on the wrong side of the pants, the seam and the corners straighten and grind off the second line at a distance of 5 - 6 mm from the edge. The place lay at the bottom of the burlap (Fig. 256 e).
When skiving burlap second line the lower sections of obrazek and Podzorov, located below the ends of the pockets must be in the seams of the burlap. The upper ends of obcutek Podzorov and fasten together with Hessian, inside pants double transverse lines, positioning them against the inside edges of obcutek towards the side seams of the pants. The length of the line - 15 - 20 mm.
Trousers from fine fabrics to prevent the seam of the burlap grind one line, then slices overcast on the machine. The ends of the pocket put the tack at an angle of 60' to the slot of the pocket. Length of clips - 7 mm.
To handle pockets in the frame on the front halves of trousers, you need the following items: the facing of the main fabric - 2 pieces, the valance and the main fabric - 1 detail pocket from burlap fabric - 1 detail. On the front half of the pants it is necessary to identify the location of the pocket, the transverse lines indicate the size of the pocket. To facilitate the task scheduled for two construction lines at a distance equal to twice the width of the frame pocket.From the inside line to the pocket enclose the burlap so that the upper cut coincide with the upper cut of the pants, and primetyvajut two lines at 10 mm below the upper edge and 10 mm below the end of the pocket.
Piping bend inside out pockets: front 10 - 15 mm from the edge side along the middle.
Piping is applied on the front side of the front half bends to the auxiliary lines, primetyvajut and pritachivajut at a distance of 5 mm, the joints are bent in different directions. The pocket opening is cut from the inside in between the lines, in the end, making sloping cuts to the lines. Obtachki inside out, the seams of primaqiune of obcutek straighten, spawn and priorivet. The ends of the pockets fasten to the underside of two opposite lines, straightening the corners and pulling the piping.Internal cut front piping bends on 5 - 7 mm inside and scribbled on the burlap at a distance of 1 mm from the bent edge. You can Topstitch the facing on the burlap without bending the cut, but first almetov it.
Then, on the sacking marks the location of the valance. Slices valances on three sides, bend in the direction of inside 5 - 7 mm and iron. The valance put on sackcloth and scribbled on three sides at a distance of 1 mm from the edges of the bent or scribbled on burlap zigzag stitching zigzag with a width of 3 to 4 mm.
The end of the burlap pocket with woodcarving primetyvajut and pritachivajut to the side facing to the underside of the stitching in the seam of primaqiune piping. Burlap pocket sew on the machine, seam width 8 - 10mm, and then overcast the edges.
Burlap can be stachan double seam. In this case, the line for attaching the valance with burlap to lay facing after piecing together the burlap. Thread smachivaniya removed. Pocket priorivet. The ends of the pocket put the tack.
Another kind of pocket is on-seam pockets in the front halves of trousers. This method of machining the pockets of the trousers is the most common. Pocket this design you need: the valance of the main fabric - 1 detail pocket from burlap fabric - 2 pieces (Fig. 257 a).
 


Side portion of the front halves of trousers (valance) overcast on three sides (except the top) and scribbled on the bottom of the burlap by internal shear at a distance of 1 - 2 mm from the edge.
Then the burlap is folded, equating sections, and sew a seam width of 10 mm (Fig. 257 b). Cuts burlap overcast. On the front half of the pants outline a fold line. From the inside of the front halves to the intended bend lines on the part of the allowance pritachivajut linen edge, or stick using the iron edge of the fabric with one-side glue coating.
Stock front halves of the pants on the part of the pocket bend towards the inside and iron the fold. The inside of the bend put the prepared slice the top of the burlap and lay the finishing line at a distance of 6 - 7 mm from the edge. The inner edge of the seam allowance of the front halves of trousers at a distance of 1 - 2 mm from the edge of scribbled on burlap, by bending the front half of the pants (Fig. 257).
When stitching the side sections of the pants burlap should not fall under the line. After reputazione seams cut burlap close the side seam and the end of the pocket put the tack by hand or machine reverse stitch (small zigzag).
Processing the left and right sections of the bow in the pants is usually performed to primaqiune zone. If the waistband of the trousers without transition pull-tabs, zipper handle after protecive belt, and the details of the fly and cut out the long slope to the width of the front end of the belt. For treatment of the left cut of the bow on the front side of the left front half of the pants is applied a facing of the lining fabric face down, cuts equalize and grind the cut of the bow with a seam width of 5 mm.Then the bend facing towards the inside of the front halves of trousers, forming the front halves of trousers edge with a width of 4 - 5 mm, and iron the crease so that the inner cut of the piping of the bow that bends in the direction of the inside main part 7 - 10mm so that bent edge caught under the finishing line of the bow (Fig. 258).
 


After autoimune bend facing the bow bent so that it is a continuation of the front halves of trousers. The facing is applied the treated fly and namachivajut so that the processed outer edge of the buttonhole overlaps the line of primaqiune piping bow for 2 mm. then the fly is connected to the facing of the bow between the loops with clips in the form of a triple back stitch length of 7 mm to 10 mm (Fig. 258 a, b).
In the same way perform nastraivanie fly, processed in the lining of the left front half of the pants (Fig. 258).
Stitched fly turn towards the inside (Fig. 258 g) on the planned line - press to fold or zametyvayut straight stitches without prior saulugne. Finishing the stitching outline on the front side of a width of 35 - 40 mm (Fig. 258 d,e). The line lay on the front side, starting from the upper edge and ending with a rounded bottom, the notch of the bow.
In the products of the delicate tissues to prevent excessive thickness of the seams on the inner edge of the fly facing the bow cut out along with a padded codpiece. Processing of fly in this case is performed in the same way as cutting. For processing the right cut of the bow on the front side of the right front half trousers face impose, otcasek, equating sections, and pritachivajut it seam width 7 - 9 mm. Seam moisturize and iron in the direction accosca. To handle the right edge of the bow cut a strip of calico or linen cloth.The size and shape of the pads should match the size and shape accosca.
Internal cut strip Odeska grind lining. Joint width is 5 mm. Seam envelop the lining, forming an edging of lining fabric, equal to the width of the seam, and priorivet (Fig. 259 a).
 


Processed butt is applied on the front side Odeska, combining the front side Odeska and pads and grind outer edge of the side accosca. Joint width is 5 mm. Strip of seam carving, the seam in the bottom corner cut to 3 mm. Otcasek turn on the front side, straighten the seam, spawn, forming, edging to the side of the lining width 1 - 2 mm, and priorivet. Some models can be used for processing Odeska grosgrain ribbons. In this case, the lower end of accosca overcast.The inner edge of the butt Odeska primetyvajut straight stitches with a length of 20 mm, and then fix the finishing line at a distance of 1 mm from the seam primaqiune Atkascha on the right side of the pants, if the seam primaqiune Odeska processed vrazalic, or otasco if the seam primaqiune accosca was press it in the direction accosca. At the same finishing line on the right edge of bow performed simultaneously with the laying of the finishing stitches in the belt (Fig. 259 b).
For the treatment of the clasp of the pants most often used braid - zipper (Fig. 260). Treatment of the fasteners in this case, start with the right half of the pants. Otcasek fold lining, right sides inside and turned on the external cut, seam width 5 - 7 mm. straighten the Seam. Edge priorivet or zastrugivajut forming of the base fabric edge with a width of 2 mm. the Lines are laid at a distance of 3 mm from the edge. Internal cut Odeska gasket overcast on the machine. At the same time pritachivajut the edge of the zipper.Processed otcasek pritachivajut to the right front half of the pants from the upper edge to the notch on the bow seam width 5 - 7 mm. iron the Seam towards half or scribbled at a distance of 1 mm from the seam.
 


To handle left cut clasps cut internal piping of the left front half of the pants overcast on the machine. On the facing front side by a pre-planned line impose and scribbled the zipper, positioning the line at a distance of 2 mm from the edge of the clasp. Obtachku with attached zipper is folded with the front half of the pants, right sides inside and grind from the side halves of the trousers, seam width 5 - 6 mm.
The edge of the bow turn, spawn and priorivet, forming halves of the pants edge with a width of 2 mm. Place spawn simultaneously primativa the inner edge of the piping.
Finishing line of the bow lay by the front half of the trousers at a distance of 25 - 35 mm.
Trousers with a single cut shoulder with allowances for processing the left and right edges of the bow zipper scribbled on the planned lines, as indicated above, the inner sections or overcast edging strip of lining fabric.



Category: The ABCs of sewing | Added by: 16.10.2017
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