Processing upper edge of trousers. After the fastener treated with the upper cut of the pants. Before pritachivajut belt outline the location of the belt loops. Belt loops can be five or six depending on the model. Two loops have in the middle of the front halves around two of the side seam from the back half and two at a distance of 6 - 7 cm from middle seam. Instead of the last two loops on the rear halves of the pants you can make one, which is embedded at the middle seam. Loops impose a face on the front side of the Trouser halves, equating sections, and primetyvajut the distance 7 - 8 mm from the edge.
The most common is the method of processing belt using grosgrain ribbon. While grosgrain ribbons are placed face up on the front side of the belt so that the edge of the tape overlaps the cut of the belt to 8 mm, and scribbled at a distance of 1 mm from the edge of the braid (Fig. 261). Then the braid folded towards the inside of the belt and zametyvayut, forming the edging of belt width of 2 mm. Belt priorivet. The inner edge of the braid fasten the finishing stitching on the belt at a distance of 1 mm from the seam of his primaqiune.
When processing belts with the finishing line the upper section of the belt bend towards the inside of 7 - 8 mm. For bent edge from the inside is applied grosgrain ribbons and scribbled at a distance of 1 mm from the bent edge of the belt. Then with a face scribbled seam primaqiune, under the line hits the inner edge grosgrain braid.
If there is no printed grosgrain ribbon, the top edge of the belt can be treated with lining. When you handle the belt lining should be cut out strip of linen. The size and shape of the pads should match the size and shape of the chord and the upper sections of the pants.
In the processing zone lining the lower section of the strip is stretched iron 15 - 20 mm and grind lining. Joint width 5 - 7 mm. Lining envelop the seam, forming an edge with a width of 5 - 7 mm, and priorivet (Fig. 262).
Belt fold lining, right sides inside, equalizing the slices and grind. Then turn on the front side, the edges straightened, spawn, forming the edge of the belt in the direction of lining width of 2 mm, simultaneously primetyvajut the inner edge of the lining stitching on the belt or the sides of the pants (depending on, press the seam protecive belt on the side or resutured).
Belt priorivet and fix the finishing line at a distance of 1 - 2 mm from the seam primaqiune. Thread the buttonhole is removed, the belt again priorivet.
Connecting stepper and middle sections of the pants. After the treatment zone start connecting the stepper and middle sections of the pants.
Pants laid out on the table stepper sections of the front and rear halves are butted together and outline with chalk marks. Then each half of the pants is folded, right sides inside, combining the control and the chalk marks, smatyvay the intended lines at a distance of 9 mm slices and then grind on the front half. Joint width 10 mm. Thread smachivaniya removed.Seams rautureau halves of the pants laid out on the table so that the section from the bottom to the top of the lap side seams coincided with the stepper, and storevault front halves below the knees, and the rear half below the line of the buttocks, giving the halves of the pants shape corresponding to the structure shape.
Before connecting the middle sections specify the width of the pants at the top and set the chalk line. The right and left halves of the pants is folded, right sides inside, aligning the chalk line, and smatyvay straight stitches with a length of 10 - 15 mm, making sure the seams match protecive belt, supers and stepper seams and putting in seam the folded end of the doubled belt loops. Skiving is performed by the left side of two lines (the second line are laid first), or one line, but so that the needle was two lines. When stitching the seam stretch, especially at the most concave part of the bottom of the middle seam.Thread smachivaniya is removed, the seam rautureau.
The middle sections of the area of the belt can be processed with the allowance of a grosgrain ribbon (Fig. 263 a) or the suture (Fig. 263 b). The edges of the belt to stretch the middle seam is attached to the belt on the machine or by hand.
The codpiece is applied to otcasek so that the edge of the buttonhole overlaps the seam primaqiune Odeska 2 - 3 mm, equate the top edge and at the end of the fly put the tack by hand or machine. The tack is a higher end finishing line of the left edge of the bow 5 mm, so that it formed a triangle with the finishing line and middle seam of the pants.
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