Processing of the bottom of the pants. After the grinding step and a medium cut remains the treatment of the bottom of the pants, which can be decorated in different ways, depending on the model and on the type of fabric. The bottom of the pants can be cuffed without them.
When handling cuffed hem, usually cuffs were dual, and only in those cases where it is necessary to increase the length of the pants, you can handle the bottom half cuffs. When processing bottom-half cuffed pants can be longer than with double cuffs, half cuff width.
To clarify the pants laid out on the table right-half up, aligning the side and stepping seams, adjusting the bow and straightening the middle joint.
The upper part of the pants folded from the middle seam at the inseam lay the length of the pants and hold the chalk line hemming the bottom, then spend two more chalk lines: the first - down at a distance equal to the width of the cuff ready, and the second below the first line at a distance equal to the width of the cuff plus 10 mm.
The right half of the pants is applied to the left and translate it on the chalk line. Bottom of pants are cut on the bottom chalk line.
The chalk line is transferred to the outside of the pants. Special braid for protection of the bottom of the pants from abrasion impose a thickened edge up to the cut of the bottom so that the edge of the ribbon were cut at 1 - 2 mm, and scribbled near the thickened edge (Fig. 264 a). The ends of the braid impose one on another, placing them at 10 - 15 mm from the stepper side seam of the front halves. Then the bottom of the pants bend inside the middle of the chalk line and scribbled on the tape at a distance of 1 mm from the edge.
Folded cuff on the front side so that the thickened edge of the tape out smooth edging for the bottom of the pants and zametyvayut straight stitches with a length of 30 mm. the Cuffs attach to the bottom of the pants from the inside along the side and stepping seams manually 5 - 6 stitches. The length of the tack 10 mm Cuff priorivet.
During the processing of the bottom of the pants with half cuffs (Fig. 264 b) the bottom line is to clarify the following way. From the middle seam at the inseam lay the measure pants length minus half the width of the cuff and hold the chalk line of bending, and then for the treatment of cuff hold the line at a distance of 60 - 80 mm (when the width of the cuff in the finished form 4 mm) and cut, leaving a seam allowance of 10 - 20 mm in ACC trimming the edges inward.
On the planned line of the lower bend paving the braid and scribbled her two lines or one on a thin edge. Cut the bottom of the pants bend towards the inside, zametyvayut and sew it to the top of the intended line of stitches of blind stitch hem manual.
Lay the cuff so that the seam was exactly in the middle, and thickened edge of the tape beyond the bottom of the pants smooth edging and zametyvayut. Cuffs attached and priorivet the same as described above.
To handle the bottom of the trousers without cuffs, plan two lines: the line of bending the bottom at a distance equal to the length of the pants, and the cutting line of the bottom at a distance equal to the width of the ACC. The width of the ACC must not be less than 40 mm. the Cut of the bottom of the pants can be banded, striped lining fabric seam edging with one open cut.
Our bottom line bending from the front side braid scribbled one or two lines. The allowance for bending the bottom bend inside out, zametyvayut and manually sew hidden stitches. The bottom of the pants priorivet.
When machining the bottom of the trousers without cuffs made of thin fabrics outline two lines: the line of bending the bottom at a distance equal to the length of the pants, and the cutting line of the bottom at a distance equal to twice the width of bending the bottom (but not less than 40 mm).
A band with a thickened rim is applied to the cut from the inside out, releasing the thickened edge of the tape over the cut of the bottom of the pants 3 mm, and scribbled at a distance of 1 mm from the top of the braid. The bottom of the pants with stitched tape folded on the front side, releasing the thickened edge of the tape over the chalk line of bending the bottom 2 mm, and scribbled, making a line around the thickened edge of the tape, the cut of the bottom of the pants should be inside (Fig. 265 a) for delicate fabrics or processed on a zigzag (Fig. 265 b) for normal tissues.
Then the processed edge of the bottom folded inside out along the line, straighten and priorivet.
The bottom of the pants is fixed manually from the front side at a distance of 5 mm from the side and stepping seams from the rear halves. In conclusion, it is necessary to produce the final wet-heat processing and finishing of trousers. With removed traces namelong lines, threads of matiwane and zamatyvala the edges, trimmed the ends of the thread from the front side and back side. The upper part of the pants priorivet using a piece of cotton fabric or gauze on the front side, straightening the waist, bow detailing, Darts, side and back pockets and middle seam.Then priorivet the lower part of the pants, aligning the side and stepping seams, and iron the folds from the side of the stepper seams on each half separately and from the side seams on both halves together. Simultaneously with autoimune bends straighten, tight priorivet and stripped the cuff or hem of pants.
After that, sew buttons, making at least four or five stitches in each hole of the button.
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