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Home » Articles » The ABCs of sewing

Pants

Defects in the pants, their causes and solutions. After fabrication of pants, it may be that the design of the products have defects - creases, distortions, uneven lines, etc. have Driven most often occurring defects in the pants and ways to address them.
 


1. The oblique creases on the front halves of the pants along the middle slice in the upper part in the region of the side seam, making the product uncomfortable to wear and restrict movement (Fig. 266).
Reasons:
a) rear halves of the pants cropped at the average cut in the upper part;
b) lack of pulling the middle seam.
Fix: 
a) pritachivajut the wedge to the top of the middle seam of the rear halves (Fig. 266 a);
front half lift up, cutting off the excess fabric at the top of the bow and, accordingly, enhancing it in the lower part (Fig. 266 b);
increase the height of the middle seam of the rear halves, reshaping them (Fig. 266);
b) pull the rear halves of the pants at the site of greatest concavity.
 


2. The bend of the front halves of trousers in different directions (Fig. 267).
Reasons: 
a) halves of the pants are incorrectly connected at the inseam - front half shifted down;
b) if the design were not taken into account the peculiarity of the position of the feet (socks feet turned inward);
in) tapered rear halves of the pants in the buttocks;
g) short side seam - not taken into account the peculiarity of the shape (convex hip).
Fix:
a,b) the front half of a slip up at the inseam to the desired value, deepening the line of the bow and if necessary cutting off any excess fabric at the top. Accordingly, the same amount of produce stock fabric trousers, skirts and changing the position of the reference point on the line of the knee (Fig. 267 a);
C) extend the rear halves of the pants in the buttocks, releasing the margin of the middle and partially inseam (Fig. 267 b);
g) lengthen the side seam, releasing the margin of the fabric in the bottom hem of the front and rear halves. Accordingly, to preserve the length of the seam deepen middle seam and the line of the bow. The same amount cut off the excess tissue along the line of protecive belt at the top of the bow and the middle of the weld (Fig 267).

 Note. When cutting the pants on the figure, the feet of which are turned inward, the line sabturce bend the front half needs to be moved to the side seam to the required value. On the same size move the side and stepping seams. Respectively on the rear halves of the line of the bend, side and stepping seams are moved towards the flanks (Fig. 267 g).
 


3. Bends the front halves offset to the inside (Fig. 268).
Reasons: 
a) halves of the pants are incorrectly connected at the inseam - front half is shifted upward;
b) if the design were not taken into account the peculiarity of the position of the feet - socks feet excessively outward.
Fix:
a,b) due to the lack of supply of tissue along the line of the front bow halves correction is produced at the expense of the back half. Her slip up at the inseam to the desired value, deepening the average seam and cutting off the excess fabric at the top. Accordingly, the same amount of produce stock fabric binder bottom and change the position of the reference point on the line of the knee (Fig. 268 a).

 Note. When cutting the pants on the figure, the feet of which are overly expanded, the line sabturce bend the front half needs to be moved to the side seam to the required value. On the same size move the side and stepping seams. Respectively on the rear halves of the line of the bend, side and stepping seams moved to the side seam (Fig. 268 b).
 


4. Slanted creases at the inseam (Fig. 269).
Reasons: 
a) when connecting the side sections of the front halves of the pants shifted down, and when connecting the stepper slices up.
b) skewed to the front half when you connect it with lining.
Fix: 
a) to validate and Refine the control notch on the side and step sections and connect the sections without landing and tension.
b) the front halves of trousers to baste on the lining straight out.

5. Transverse creases on the back seam protecive belt (Fig. 270).
Reasons: 
a) rear halves of the pants are long at the seam;
b) rear halves of the pants narrowed in the upper part of the thighs.
Fix: 
a) shorten the rear halves of the pants at the top of srednegorja on pritachivajut belt (Fig. 270 a);
b) rear halves of the trousers extend in the area of the hips, releasing the margin of the fabric at the seam (Fig. 270 b).
 


6. Transverse and oblique creases on the rear halves of the trousers, above and below the calf (the defect is often found in tight pants) (Fig. 271).
Cause: insufficient heat-wet treatment in the anterior and posterior halves in the knee region and calf.
Bugfix: generate wet-heat treatment of the front and rear halves of the pants (Fig. 271 a).

7. Transverse creases on the rear halves of the pants below the hip line (Fig. 272).
Reason: Rear halves of the pants are tapered at the top of the stepper sections.
Fix: the release of allowances of the stepper seams in the upper part (Fig. 272 a).
 


8. Excessive sagging of the middle seam in the lower part (Fig. 273).
Reason: increased the height of the seat of the pants.
Fix: reduce the height of the seat of the pants, taking away the excess tissue along the line of protecive belt from the front and rear halves (Fig. 273 a). If necessary, the excess fabric at the waist taken in middle or side seam.
 


9. Inclined creases sent from the calf up to the side seams (Fig. 274).
Reasons: 
a) too long middle seam of the rear halves;
b) when cutting was not taken into account pereghibati shapes - short line of the bow.
Fix: 
a) if the defect is minor, reduce the length of the middle seam, cutting off any excess fabric at the top edge (Fig. 274 a).
A more significant defect struts side seam and take away excess fabric at the side seam rear halves by releasing the stock of fabric at the seam by the same amount (Fig. 274 b);
b) for pereghibati shapes increase the length of the front halves along the line of the bow and shorten the middle seam of the rear halves (Fig. 274).

Note. When cutting trousers for pereghibati figure it is necessary to reduce the width of the rear halves and the same amount to increase the width of the front (Fig. 274 g).
 


10. The creases at the side seam from the hip line to the feet. Bends the front and rear halves are shifted inward (pronounced defect in tight pants) (Fig. 275).
The reason: when construction is not taken into account the peculiar structure of the legs is X-shaped.
Bugfix: expand the area in the area of the knee at the inseam of the front and rear halves. In the absence of stock fabric in the front halves of the correction produced only at the expense of the rear halves. When you do this, take the excess fabric at the top of the side seam of the front and rear halves. Accordingly, line the bottom (Fig. 275 a).

Note. When cutting trousers for a figure with X-shaped legs, the line sabturce bend the front and rear halves of the pants needs to be moved to the side seam, an amount equal to 1/4 of a deviation from the normal stop position. Accordingly, on the same size move the side and stepping seams (Fig. 275 b).
 


11. The rear halves of the pants are tight on the figure, while in front there is excessive width (on the side down towards the knees are creases). Bends the front halves diverge (Fig. 276).
The reason: when construction is not taken into account the aspect of the figure strongly protruding buttocks, causing incorrectly calculated width of the front and rear halves of the pants.
Fix: aligning the width of the front and rear halves, reduce the width of the front halves, cutting off the excess fabric through the hips, seam and bow. By the same amount to expand the back half. In addition, increase the length of the middle seam (Fig. 276 a).

Note. Depending on the style side pockets in the pants the patch in front half can be done at the expense of the side seam or just stepping and line bow.
 


12. At the side seam are formed by short transverse creases, bends the front halves of several shifts to the inside (Fig. 277).
The reason: the side seam of the pants long.
Bugfix: shorten the side seam, cutting off any excess fabric at the top of the side seam front and back halves (Fig. 277 a).

13. Vertical crease on back halves along the side seam at the thigh area (Fig. 278).
Reason: pants wide legs; side seam in the area of the hips too rounded.
Fix: take the excess fabric at the side seam in the area of the hips of the front and rear halves or only the rear (Fig. 278 a).



Category: The ABCs of sewing | Added by: 16.10.2017
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