How to use a commercial pattern 

Currently in our country there are many fashion magazines, albums different house models. Receive a lot of periodicals of foreign countries "Fashion", "PRAMO", "Burda", which gained popularity for its ready-made patterns. All magazines have inserts with patterns, which shows the dimensional characteristics of the shapes that these patterns will fit.
Copy the pattern desired or related size (if not need) in three ways.
1. Using the cutter. On the table with soft cloth to lay the paper patterns on top of the leaflet and on the necessary lines to hold the cutter, marking the place of nasechek, Darts, supers, and so on. The disadvantage of this method is that the whole sheet of patterns to be broken with the cutter and with further use of the difficulties, sheet patterns constantly need to glue.
2. Using tracing paper. On a sheet of pattern tracing paper superimposed on which are transferred on the desired lines in the part of the pattern. It is a common way. For greater durability, copied patterns, especially if it's a framework, not a specific style, tracing can be mounted with pins on a heavier paper, to make the necessary allowances and cut the pattern pieces. So if necessary you can cut and multiple instances of a particular style.
3. With the help of carbon paper. This method is most practical if you always use patterns from fashion magazines or booklets. Sheets of carbon paper are joined together by glue or adhesive tape on the sheet size of the pattern. The paper is applied to the copy sheet, the top sheet of patterns. The contours of the parts lead round a pencil, also noting the place of nasechek, combining with other items, tucks and so on. Stored copy sheet folded matte side up. Enough of the worksheet to copy 200-220 styles.

Changes in the pattern. After copied the pattern from the magazine, checked it according to the figure in the withdrawn standards. Pattern pieces pomeryayutsya in the following areas:
a) on the chest (Fig. 83 a) from the middle of the back at the bottom of the armhole to the top of polutanata outlined on the parts with the closure in the front, or middle shelves. The value should equal 1/2 of the Exhaust gas + allowance for free customized fit (4-12 cm depending on the volume of products);
b) waist (Fig. 83 a) from mid back to mid front without the tucks, the value should be equal to 1/2 + allowance for free customized fit, which can be different depending on the silhouette (for adjacent silhouette 2 - 3 cm, with 8 - 10 cm). With minor deviations it is possible to increase or decrease the solution tucks or change the direction of the side seam;
C) the hip line (Fig. 83 b) from the middle of the back of the cloth to the middle of the front. The value may be different depending on the cut of the skirt, but the minimum, 1/2 A6 + 2.0 cm.
In products, cut at the waist line, checked items:
a) back along the length of the waist (Fig. 83 a). If the back is stooped, in detail should be made and change by their standards (Fig. 83). The backless detail on the blades is cut from the middle seam in the armhole. Point a moves up to the point A1 until the desired length equal to TPA + 0,2 see If measurement of the length of the back waist coincides with the length of the part in the pattern, in this case, when a stooped back makes sure to tuck in the shoulder seam;
b) the length of the skirt (Fig. 83 b). The length of the pattern pieces must meet the standards removed Di II. For this detail patterns adjust to the desired length;
C) the waist of the skirt (Fig. 83 6) from the middle of the back of the cloth to the middle of the front without Darts. Minor deviations can immediately decrease or increase the solution tucks and side seam. But it can be done in the future on the fitting;
g) at the breast height (Fig. 83 g) check the length of the tuck, changes are made. For low breast carries only the center of the chest, the length of the shelves does not change. For high chest waist length front more than low chest, so the top of probusqueda the difference between VG and measure the same area on the details, the location of the Darts specified on the fitting.

After details of the pattern on the slices. given the allowances for seams and the hem, if they are not immediately laid, arabatka fabric in the finished pattern is already accounted for (Fig. 84). For sanding seams allowances are 1.0 cm; cut-off for waist product for primaqiune skirt to the bodice, leaving 1.5 cm; hemming straight skirt - 4,0; if the skirt is flared, then the ACC bottom need 1.5 - 2.0 cm to lay smoothly rounded bottom; to protecive belt skirt - 1.0 cm; for the connection of the side skirt seams - 1.0 cm and 1.5 cm for primaqiune braid zipper. The skirt easier to give allowance for the side seam 1.5 cm
  The fit of the pattern to the desired size and growth. When using ready patterns may not be the right size or growth in any model. Related to size and growth, you can take advantage of the pattern that is given in the journal, but to make changes, for example, 88 and 96 dimensions are the size of the pattern 92, and Rostov 158 and 170 - pattern growth 164. If you increase the size of the pushing part on the center, make a vertical incision, pushing back by 0.7 cm to the side seam add 0.3 cm (Fig. 85 a).A shelf on a vertical line passing through the tuck, move apart by 0.7 cm, and side seam add 0.3 cm (Fig. 85 6).

To reduce the size of these lines the value is laid fold, with side seams removed at 0.3 cm. as the length of the shoulder cut changes from size to size by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, it is measured, plan a new line of openings. Tuck varies from size to size by 0.3 cm, if directed to the center of the chest from the shoulder, and 0.5 cm if coming from the side seam to the center of the chest. To the sides of the sleeve increases or decreases to 0.3 cm (Fig. 85). This method is appropriate only for adjacent sizes, where errors are not so noticeable.In General, the difference in the bust, waist and hips should be in adjacent dimensions 4,0 cm
The skirt with the front and rear panels of every detail you need to increase or decrease by 2.0 cm (Fig. 85 g) to in General, the waist and the hip turned out to increment or decrease by 4.0 cm
Dresses length related growth (e.g., 158 of 164) varies 3.0 see If a dress cut at the waist, change the length of the bodice is equal to 1.0 cm (Fig. 85 a, b), and the length of the skirt 2.0 cm (Fig. 85 g). In this case, the stored proportions of the model laid down by the artist.
Skirt length knee length is changed by 2.0 cm in height, in dress, and elongated skirts - 2.5, see Fig. 85 shows only increase in size and growth: black - size; green for growth. To reduce the size and growth detail shifts.
The details of the pants are measured in the following areas:
a) length of the pants side cut anterior halves (Fig. 86 a). If necessary, added to or removed from the bottom. Length of halves should be equal measure Di + allowance for rabotku tissue (1.5 - 2.0 cm);
b) the width of the pants at the waist (Fig. 86 b) is measured at the top of the front and rear halves without tucks and folds and shall be equal to 1/2 + 0.5 cm With a slight variance in the width of the waist can be increased or decreased by changing the magnitude of folds and tucks. Changes can be made along the side and middle sections;
C) the hip line (Fig. 86 b) item measured from the side cut of the back half through the middle and cut the line of the bow up to the side of the cut front halves or connecting parts of the side sections of the front bow halves to the middle of the slice back half. The value must be equal to 1/2 V + stock (2 - 4 cm);
g) hip girth pants pomeryayutsya under-developed muscles (Fig. 86 6). For normal pants, this value is equal to Obera + 8 - 10 cm, narrow pants Obera + 2 - 5 cm, wide - Obeka + 10 - 16 cm, If necessary, changes are made on the side of cut halves, pants in this part of the expanded line is negated to a line knee tucks and folds at the waist are increased by the same amount (Fig. 87, green dotted line);
d) the height of the seat of the pants measure from the waist to the line drawn horizontally from the corner of a step cut (Fig. 86 a). Trousers worn on the waist, this value is equal to Vs ± 1.0 cm, for sports pants - Vs - (2 - 4cm);
d) seat length is measured only in the case when the shape has a deviation or if the pants are tight (Fig. 86 a). After details and making changes to give the allowances, given that rabotka in detail has already been laid (Fig. 88): sanding seams - 1.0 cm, for protecive belt - 1,0 cm, to ACC bottom - 4,0 cm medium cut rear halves of the upper part can be added together with seam 3.0 cm, this stock required the alteration of the pants waist.

  The fit of the pattern of the pants to the desired size and growth. In the absence of the journal patterns of trousers of the necessary size or growth, you can use related size and height of the pattern, which is, for example, for sizes 96 and 104 - pattern of size 100, and Rostov 176 and 188 - a pattern of growth 182. This changes the front and rear halves of the pants ( Fig. 89). If you increase the details apart, when you reduce laid fold. In General, the changes should make the waist girth and hip 4.0 cm (half - 2,0 cm), hip girth of 0.6 - 0.7 cm, for growth in length - 4,0 cmThe width of the pants in the adjacent sizes are accepted on request. In Fig. 89 shows the changes in size black color, Rostam green.
  Check mate details. After made all changes according to standards, this seam, adjusted the size of the pattern, check the mating parts of the patterns between them for the main sections at the joints are laid the seams. If necessary, the details of the changes.

1. Dress:
a) shelf and back at the side seam and the bottom of the armhole (Fig. 90 a) check the length of the side seams of the parts and the flat line of the armhole to the bottom;
b) at the neckline shelves and back (Fig. 90 b) the parts connected by the vertices of the neck and shoulder joints;
in) through the openings at the top (Fig. 90) are connected to the shelf and back at the shoulder seams, uranias at the armhole;
g) the top of the skirt (Fig. 90 g) is checked by connecting the front and rear panels at the side seam;
d) line the bottom of the skirt (Fig. 90 d) aligned connection of the two parts on the side seam. Line the bottom of the front and rear panels in the center of the bend is aligned in the same way.

2. Trousers:
a) the top of the pants at the side seam (Fig. 91 a) along the middle seam of the rear halves (Fig. 91 b), the seam of the front bow halves (Fig. 91);
b) line the bottom of the trousers, connectivity is verified along the side and stepping seams (Fig. 91 g).
Only after making all the clarifications, modifications, validation, pairing details on sites you can start cutting fabric. The seam can add to the pattern right on the fabric, but easier to do it in advance, and the fabric just cut around the finished part. To Refine the model when cutting the fabric according to the finished pattern, you can provide allowances that will be used on the fitting: the neck, shoulder, side seams - 1.0 cm, waist to cutting products - 2.0 cm; the length of any product - 2,0 - 3,0 cm
To check the conformity of the pattern and the captured standards, and to create a simple base you can pre-cut a piece of calico and practice in the process of fitting the figure.
All changes made on the basis of calico should then make patterns on paper that will serve as the basis in modeling the various styles.