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Home » Articles » The ABCs of sewing

Shirts

The technological processing sequence shifts

 to the Processing of shirts. The production of shirts begins with processing the front and back. If when cutting shirts the amount of fabric allows you to carve out this or that detail intact, it is possible to apply extensions, which are treated in the following way.
 


Extensions to the side seam of the front and back, cut sleeves pritachivajut the seam width of 7 - 8 mm, and then treat the edges with a zigzag stitch (Fig. 214) pritachivajut or linen suture (Fig. 215 a and b), clipping one or two finishing lines. Primaqiune carry out side extensions.
In the presence of her yoke connect with back patch seam from the front side of the yoke, at the same time placing podkonicky (Fig. 216), in this case, if the back needs to be pleated or puckered, they lay in advance basting. The yoke and podkonicky connect with back bridging a seam width of 7 - 8 mm (Fig. 217).
 


The shape of the yoke can be straight and curved. Patterned yoke and lining to it connect with the back bridging the seam; then scribbled on the front side of one or two lines.
In the manufacture of fine finishing details - tabs, Pat, belts - items you need to put a face with a person, you can pre-pave the basting. Tabs and finishing PATA, grind from podlesice stitch width 5-7 mm., the Seams in the corners are cut, leaving allowances 2 - 3 minutes then turn out, straighten seams. Finishing line of pave on the front side of the part.
Belt grind on three sides, seam width 5 - 7 mm, leaving a hole 40 to 50 mm for eversion. Belt turn on the front side, smoothing seams and priorivet. Finishing line of pave on the front side at a distance from the edges corresponding to the finishing lines in other parts.
If the shelf is provided a series of folds or tucks, you must first calculate the amount needed for sliding shelves depending on the number and depth of folds or tucks. Pleats or pintucks on the front zastrugivajut according to the preliminary layout. The width of pleats distance between pleats and tucks, the length and direction of their set at the pre-selected models (Fig. 218).
When processing invoices the pockets of the upper slice scribbled on the car seam to the hem with a closed cut on the front or the reverse side (Fig. 219 a); grind the valve (Fig. 219 b), a stitched leaf surface (Fig. 219 g) or facing (Fig. 219).
 


Valve or piece of paper face placed on the underside of the upper edge of the pocket facing fold the pocket, right sides inside, and grind the seam width 5 - 7 mm. straighten the Seam, of the flap or folded piece of paper on the front side, forming them from edge with a width of 1 mm; the bend facing towards the inside, forming a Kant from part of the pocket. Bottom edge of leaves or piping on the pocket scribbled one or two lines. In the presence of finishing Kant put it between the pocket and the facing, leaflets or valve.
The facing surface of the pocket pritachivajut to the upper cut (Fig. 220) the seam width of 7 - 8 mm, the seam is stretched and folded in the side pocket, the second section of piping bends and secured with stitching.
Unfastened pocket flap grind the seam width 5 - 7 mm, turn and prostrachivajut one or two lines. The valve is attached to the front of the shirt from podlabene stitch width 5-7 mm, bent down and scribbled on the top edge of the seam width 6 - 8 mm (Fig. 221). The top edge of the pockets, otechnye the edges of the valves and the bottom edge of the leaf can be turned over finishing a strip of cloth of different widths.
 


Side and lower pocket edges, iron. Pocket applied on the front of shirts, previously marked out the place, and scribbled.
After processing the shelves and back join shoulder seams. In shirts with yoke and belt of all fabrics shoulder seams connect bridging a seam width of 7 - 8 mm, followed by buttonhole. Seams are straightened out by bending in the direction of yoke, and priorivet.
When cutting left and right parts of the front in the shirts of thick easypayday tissue processing is performed without the cushioning materials. Slices of allowances on the clasp (when cutting without edge) overcast. Allowance for the buckle bend on the wrong side and iron.
The shirts from crumbling tissue fastener shelves are treated with strips of calico or thin cotton fabric.
In the processing of clasps chemise with lace (Fig. 222 a) allowance for closure left and right side of the front iron on the front side. Cuts bends 5 mm and scribbled on the machine at a distance of 1 mm from the bent edges, inlaying lace (Fig. 222 6). If the lace on the front of the shirt is superimposed in several rows, he scribbled on the machine's straight or zigzag stitching.Slices of lace at the top of the shirt fastened in the joints of connection of the collar with the neckline and shoulder seams in the lower sections of lace to buckle towards the inside lace, equating them with the edge, and secured by stitching felling (Fig. 222).
 


Dressy shirts are treated with finishing pads (Fig. 223 a, b), the Sections of the side and bottom of the lining iron. Lining can be fabric finishing (Fig. 224) or pleats (Fig. 225), tucks. Form overlays are different. Folds in the lining zastrugivajut, as shown in Fig. 218.
The right and left sides of the front grind plates, seam width 5 - 7mm, folding parts, right sides inside. Straighten the seams, the lining folded on the front side of the front, forming the edging of the lining, and prostrachivajut at a distance of 1 mm from the edge. Side and bottom side finishing pads scribbled on the front at a distance of 1 mm from the edge. Left side zipper is applied on the right, laying in the middle of the front fold, and secured to the end of the cross-sectional lines. At the bottom of the lining by a second line at an arbitrary distance.The zipper trim reinforce the stitching when you nastraivanii allowance on the clasp.
 


Clasp the left part of the front can be handled decorative tucks or pintucks (Fig. 226, b).
The shirts with Velcro to the bottom of the right and left parts of the front handle straps and a stitched podborta of a primary or a finishing tissue (Fig. 227 a, b). Strap width may be different. Strap is pre-iron, then pritachivajut to the shelves. Straighten the seams toward the bar. At the side you can lay the finishing stitches. The inner sections of podborov treated with zag. Podborta fold with strap face inward and connect with the side of the bar.Grind the upper corners, then turn podborta on the front side, the seam grinding and straighten priorivet.
In the processing fastener left side of the front nastroni strap (Fig. 227) it pritachivajut, folding the front side straps with inside out forehand. The seam is stretched and folded, forming the edging of the strap. The bar scribbled on the front side.
 



Category: The ABCs of sewing | Added by: 16.10.2017
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