Treatment of collars and connecting them with the neck. Methods of processing of collars depend on the thickness, density and structure of the materials used that affect the thickness of the processed edges, the location of seams on the front side, roveto processed edge of the part. Collars grind on departure and ends with the gasket or just on the fly, with the displacement of the stitches turning at the ends and without their displacement with subsequent nastraivanie strip along the seam, grinding of departure, with the finishing lines at the edges without them.
To create a given shape collars pick up the packing materials. As a gasket apply gasket coated with a polyamide impregnated with an adhesive dot coating, and fabrics from synthetic materials and nonwovens of the type proklamelin. To make the collars sustainable forms use additional amplifiers to the main strip (Fig. 228 a, b, C, d).
 

To handle the fold-over collar and collar details of the departure of the collar pruned, adjusting the strip of cloth, then fold with the lower collar right sides inside and grind on the ends and cut leaving a seam width of 5 - 7 mm long, enclosing the gasket from the bottom of the collar.
When laying fabric such as calico was my first strip with an adhesive coating, cut to a width of 1 mm departure from the underlying tissue, scribbled on the pad patch seam width 6 mm (Fig. 229), having a place on the strip with an adhesive coating parallel to the top cut of the flight.
The top collar is folded with the bottom face of the inside and applied on the strip so that parts of the collar is aligned with a lining of calico or madapolam top cut of the flight and all, and grind through the bottom of the collar seam width 5 - 7 mm. Then the flight grind on the ends by placing a strip of calico, seam width 5 - 7 mm in Seam corners are cut, leaving a seam allowance of 3 mm, the departure turn on the front side ) straightening the edges. Seams grinding of the ends of the departure of the collar shall be closed by the adhesive strip.Then glue the gasket scribbled on the lower collar on the shear stand at a distance of 1 - 2 mm from the edge. Turn the collar on the front side, straightening the edges and corners, forming the edge of the upper collar. The collar can be stitched with decorative stitching. For proper fit of flying to the collar with a detachable stand lay the line on the shear connection of the flight with a stand, forming an overlap of the top collar to 2 mm.
When processing the fold-over collar, banded finishing braid, parts of the top collar is folded with the strip and the lower collar and secured by stitching at the ends and leave a seam width 2 - 3 mm. Slices of collar edging and finishing braid or cut a strip of fabric (Fig. 230).
 

Ready stachivaya collar in the neckline seam width 5 - 7 mm, with the cut of the neck between the uprights. Seam vrachevanie spread, by bending to the side stand.
In podborany shirts with the collar sewn into the neck with simultaneous grinding of the sides. The collar is put between the Board and podborta and stachivaya sections of the upper and lower collar together at the neck front. In the neck back sew only the lower collar and the upper sections of the collar bends and scribbled on the seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar.

Handling of the sleeves and connect them with arm openings. For the treatment of cuts long sleeves it is necessary to prepare one facing (Fig. 231).
Obtachku face added to the underside of the sleeves and pritachivajut from the sleeves to the right and left sides of the slit seam with a width of 5 - 7 mm, at the upper end of the incision the width of the lines needs to be reduced to 2 mm. Seam straightened out by bending him to the side piping. Free slice of piping bends on 5 - 7 mm and scribbled at a distance of 1 mm from the edge, closing the seam primaqiune 2 mm. the End of the section secured to the underside of the sleeves tuck (Fig. 232 a) or from the front line in the shape of a rectangle (Fig. 232 b). The ends of obcutek cut at the level of sections of the sleeves.
 

The shirts of the fabrics the type of stories, flannel, calico, plaid sheared edges of the sleeves are treated with a seam in the hem closed cut (Fig. 233). Sleeve shirts you can vacilate in open or closed openings, i.e. to the junction of the side seams or after grinding them. Seam vrachevanie sleeveless is 7 - 8 mm. Possible variants of vrachevanie sleeveless linen stitch.
When connecting the sleeves with the armholes in the usual line of the edge of the slice needs to handle a zig-zag edge stitching. Straighten the seam towards the sleeve.
When assembling the product, you must perform the connection of the side sections and sections of the sleeves. For this purpose the side sections and sections of the sleeves sew the seam width of 7 - 8 mm. When stitching the side sections and the slices sleeveless linen seam armhole seams should not match at the side seam the width of seam connecting the sleeves with the armholes.
The cuff will be turned from podmazat along with the gasket, while maintaining the parallelism of the strips of fabric.
Tselnokrajnie cuff stacked with spacers and grind on the sides of the seam width 8 - 10 mm.
Harvested cuffs together with a strip sewn to bottom of sleeves from the sleeve or cuff, laying pleats or ruching bottom sleeve seam width 5 - 7 mm. Then cuff scribbled on the front side at a distance of 1 mm from the bent edges, closing the seam primaqiune 2 mm.
Hem the short sleeves zastrugivajut seam to the hem with a closed cut (Fig. 234). When processing bottom, sleeves, strap cut bottom double-bends towards the inside in the width of the cuff and scribble on the front side (Fig. 235 a). The end of the sleeve folded on the front side, forming a cuff (Fig. 235 b).
 

After doing all of the above operations is to process the bottom products, which zastrugivajut seam to hem arbitrarily chosen width. Shirts can be with slits in the side seams (Fig. 236 a) or notch (Fig. 236 b). The split hem side seams zastrugivajut seam to the hem with a shut cut at a distance of 1 mm. Edges of cuts shall be on the lines of the side seams.
 

The split hem side seams grind. Face piping is connected to the underside of the product and pritachivajut on the part of the product (front or back) to the right and left sides of the slit seam with a width of 5 - 7 mm. Seam straighten, unbend in the direction of the piping, free piping bends cut into 5 - 7 mm and scribbled at a distance of 1 mm from the edge, closing the seam primaqiune 2 mm. the end of the slit is fixed a rectangular setting, by bending the facing in the direction of the shelves. The lower ends of obcutek cut at cut-off the bottom of the product. In shirts with a belt, the handle the bottom is produced in the following sequence.One-piece belt (Fig. 237) iron on length and prostrachivajut on the sides of the seam width 5 - 7 mm, and the belt, consisting of two parts (Fig. 238), grind on the bottom and the sides. Belt turn on the front side, straightening the edges, then prostrachivajut to bottom of shirt seam width 5 - 7 mm, putting on the shirt folds or propositiva the bottom of the product. Scribbled belt on the front side, bending the cut inside and combining with the ends of lines.In shirts with wide rubber ribbons on the bottom allowance of iron for a width of the internal bending and the width of rubber tape to the bottom or shirts pritachivajut strip of fabric equal to the width of the seam allowance. The bottom zastrugivajut from the inside, at the same time putting the rubber band.
 

One end of a rubber tape fixed lines in the form of a rectangle on the bent portion of the hem or a stitched strip of fabric. If the rubber tape feature only on the back, the ends of it secured at the side seams. Press a slice or a strip of cloth scribbled from the inside at a distance of 1 mm from the bent edge (Fig. 239).
After processing the bottom of the shirt ready. It remains to perform the final finish. On the finished shirt outline and primetyvajut loop and according to them to stitch buttons. Instead of buttons you can sew on buttons, hooks, etc.