Straight skirt 

The basis of any of the skirt is the straight skirt design worked out on a certain figure. The required dimensions of the figure: waist circumference, circumference of hips and length of skirt. Drawings of parts of skirts based seam.
  The fit of the skirt on the figure. Longitudinal measurements for all sizes can be unchanged. In particular, the length of the skirt set as desired, and the location of the recesses can be defined on the fitting. Transverse dimensions in the drawings are given black color for size 158 - 92 - 100; where 158 growth of, 92 - breast, 100 - circumference of hips; green - size 158 - 96 - 104. Shown patterns can be obtained, and any other size, namely, when building the following dimensions must be added at 1.0 cm above and below, on the sections at 0.5 cm Consumption of fabric for a straight skirt depends on the length of the skirt (ready + 7-8 cm for processing).Straight skirts are mostly made from wool or a dense cotton fabrics.
You can use the table. 4.

1. Straight skirt (Fig. 167). Consists of the back (Fig. 167 a) and front (Fig. 167 b) panels.
The drawing should be folded in half paper (there will be marked on the drawing bend part), then you can begin to build parts. If the custom figure with a thinner waist (Fig. 168 a), you should amend the details on the skirt, namely: to increase the Darts on the front and the rear panel and remove the excess at the top side (Fig. 168 g, black dashed line). For shapes with a waist larger than the standard (Fig. 168 b), reduce darting at front and rear panel, the side seam at the top of several level (Fig. 168 g, green dashed line).

Belt cut out the common thread, its length is equal to waist circumference +6.0 cm. The width of the belt in a cut of 6.0 - 8.0 cm, respectively, in finished form will be 2.0 to 3.0 cm wide belt be sure to cut out a strip equal to the length of the belt, width - half.
The side seams are 1.5 cm seam protecive belt - 1.0 cm, the width of the ACC bottom - 4,0 cm, These values are already incorporated in the drawings. Tuck stitches are transferred to copy both sides of the panels, then smatyvay Darts and side seams. On the left hand side seam smatyvay do not end up at the top left part of the seam is under processing with braid zip fastener in the seam. Try on the skirt in a cream form. In the process of fitting often identified defects, such as Assembly on the side seams that can be formed due to the fact that the product was sativali on weight.Smachivanie should be performed on the table, after checking the length of the seams. Can be detected and the defects associated with the characteristics of the shape. Belowways of elimination of defects in the straight skirt.

1. Skirt adjacent to the front legs (Fig. 169).
Reason: this figure has been given insufficient deflection of the upper edge of the front panel.
Bugfix: the upper section of a front cloth doing it sags in the middle. The amount of deflection depends on the figure (Fig. 169 a).
2. Rear skirt fits to the foot (Fig. 170).
The reason: for this figure the lack of deflection of the upper edge of rear cloth.
Bugfix: the upper section of the rear of the cloth doing it sags in the middle. The amount of deflection depends on the figure (Fig. 170 a).
3. Transverse creases at the waist on the back panel of the skirt (Fig. 171).
Reason: a) insufficient deflection of the upper edge of the cloth skirts; b) zoomed-in solution of the back and side Darts.
Bugfix: a) deepen the upper edge of the rear cloth skirts (Fig. 171 a); b) reduce the solution of the posterior and lateral recesses (Fig. 171 6).

4. The skirt is wide at the hips (Fig. 172).
Fix: take the excess fabric on the side seams (Fig. 172 a).
5. Slack in the area of thighs on the side (Fig. 173).
Reason: increased solution side tuck.
Fix: reduce the solution side tuck, respectively, on the same size increase the solution back and front tucks (Fig. 173 a).

After changes in the patterns of the skirt, the side sections and the bottom secured with zigzag stitching along the edge that protects them from fraying. First sew the Darts and iron them to the middle (Fig. 174 a). Side seams zastrugivajut seam width 1.5 cm, leaving left side seam along the length of the braid lightning destacando part, the seams rautureau, including destacando part of the side seam. The zipper tape is placed under the side seam in the middle (Fig. 174 6) or offset (Fig. 174). In the first case, zipper fix lines from above at a distance of 0.5 cm from both sides;in the second case - on the one hand stitching of 0.8 - 1.0 cm, on the other hand 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge seam, press it.

The belt can be processed in two ways: with two closed sections or open with one cut, treated with zag. To the belt primetyvajut the gasket, then gasket it primetyvajut to the top of the skirt, put her face to the side.
From the back of the cloth belt goes over the zip of 0.7 - 1.0 cm From the front cloth for the processing of the tab zone is bypassed on 4.0 to 5.0 cm (Fig. 174 g). Fold belt in half lengthwise, the ends of the handle (Fig. 174 d). The excess is cut off, the ends turn to face the second side of the belt bends by 0.8 - 1.0 cm, primetyvajut from the face and secured by stitching at a distance of 0.1 cm from the previous seam, overcast the loop (Fig. 174 e). The second method, the zone treated previously almetov it with the gasket with zig-zag stitching.Belt primetyvajut to the top of the skirt, laying face, leaving the ends of the allowances for processing tips and strap, fix a line (Fig. 175 a). Then fold in half lengthwise, the ends of the handle (Fig. 175 6), cut off the excess and turn on the face. Straighten the gasket, and fix spawn from the face of the finishing line, at the same time capturing the free second belt edge. Make a loop (Fig. 175).
The bottom buckle in 4.0 cm, sew hidden stitches, remove the basting, iron and sew a loop on the belt button. For convenience when participarii belt you can attach at the side seams fold the braid acting as hangers. The length of each at 15 cm.

2. Straight skirt in woolen fabric with back vent or pleat (Fig. 176). Consists of one front and two rear panels. Build the front piece of cloth is performed according to Fig. 167 b, the back - Fig. 167 and with the addition of in the seam in the crease or slot. For slots middle seam zastraivaya not until the end (Fig. 176 a), for a fold - until the end (Fig. 176 b), and further processing is the same as a straight skirt.
Since the skirt is slit open, the inner slices must be processed, fixed zigzag or framed, if the skirt of thick fabric. But difficult to spill and in tissue sections can be bent by 0.3 - 0.5 cm and fixed by stitching or zigzag (Fig. 177 a). If the edge of the fabric without striking stripes, it's best to place when you cut the middle of the back of the cloth on the edge, in this case, the slice does not require treatment. The seam is worn down, the rest of the slots zamatyvaetsya and prietaisams, allowance for the smoothed slot on the side of the right half of the rear panel.Otherwise, the processing similar to the processing of the straight skirt. When podlive hem concealed stitches fixed upper and lower slots (Fig. 177 b).

Driven ways of elimination of defects in straight skirts with pleats in back.
1. Pleat or slit at the bottom diverges (Fig. 178).
Reasons: a) it is not considered a feature pereghibati shape (with a straight back is a large bend in the profile at the waist) - has been given insufficient deflection of the upper edge of the skirt; b) the upper section of the seam allowance in the crease does not correspond to the shape of the top slice of the skirt - given the lack of deflection, b) the product narrowed.
The fix a) increase the deflection of the upper edge of the skirt (Fig. 178 a); b) the upper section of the seam allowance folds to align with the upper cut of the skirt (Fig. 178 b). When cutting the rear panel can be folded along the line identified in the drawing by the dotted line, and cut along the top of the slice together; C) expanding the product on the hips, release the stock fabric on the side seams or reduce the allowance on the slot or the crease (Fig. 178).

3. Skirt of wool or a dense cotton fabric with slits in the side seams or in the middle seam of the back cloth. Consists of front (Fig. 167 b), and two rear panels. The main part of the rear of a panel constructed according Fig. 167 but, for the average add seam allowance (Fig. 179), the seam sew to the end, fix that part of the seam left to cut. Seams overcast zigzag zastrugivajut Darts, seams, left side seam sewn zipper, tuck and hem the bottom, pritachivajut zone. The seam allowance for the hem slit concealed stitches (Fig. 180 a), or if the finishing line, the incision can be clipped line (Fig. 180 b).

4. Straight skirt of fine wool fabric with obraznymi flounced in the middle seam of the back cloth (Fig. 181). The front panel remains unchanged, and the rear panel is completed by: the middle line is added 1.5 cm for the seam and on the bottom part of the flounce (Fig. 182 a). For grinding of the Shuttle repeats its shape (Fig. 182 b, green line). Processing features the lower part of the middle rear seam of the cloth: first, grind the two halves of the flounce (Fig. 183 a), the corners cut, turn on the face, fix the finishing line, zastrugivajut middle seam at the bottom first, folded the seam allowance on the middle seam, then sew the bottom (Fig. 183 b).Both of the shuttlecock turn on the face, lay out and priorivet, top pin lines (Fig. 183).
5. Straight skirt made of thick cotton fabric with bridging flounce on the bottom middle rear seam of the cloth (Fig. 184). Front panel without changes in direct duhovnoi skirt. The rear panel changes: on the seam at 1.5 cm, bottom flounce, which can be done more or less 1/4 of a circle (Fig. 184 a). Sew middle seam of the back panel and the upper edge of the flounce, in the corner seam cut. The bottom of the buckle and sew the flounce to 1.0 cm, based on the 4.0 cm (Fig. 184 b). Flounce post and priorivet face, if you wish, you can make the tack stitching.

6. Straight skirt with fan pleat at the middle seam of the back cloth (Fig. 185). Front panel without changing the whole with two Darts. Rear panel complete with given folds. In this case, the proposed fold in three addition (Fig. 185 a). Depending on the depth of the folds, make the seam allowance to the middle line of the cloth back (Fig. 185 b). Middle seam makes to the line of depth folds. In Fig. 185, in dashed line marks the middle (inner part of the crease); a straight line - the edge of the crease. The sides of the insert under the fold given the seam allowance 1.0 cm.these parties insert prostrachivajut to the seam allowance over the seam of the cloth, the seam once doing, for the upper cutoff folds attached to the seam allowance on the middle seam, one part folded, the folds aligned and fixated (Fig. 185 g). Line of fixation of the folds needs to get to the end of the middle seam.