Types of shapes. Taking the measurements. Table size and height for women, men and children.

Getting to sewing clothes or clothing, you first need to make measurements, based on which you can make a pattern of the appropriate size or pick up ready-made at a fashion magazine.
Taking measurements is a very important stage of work. If you make a mistake, the subsequent processes of cutting, tailoring will never give good results. Taking measurements, you should pay attention to the body structure of the person, as there can be various deviations from the norm.
Shapes are straight, normal and sloping shoulders. From the shoulders depends on the value of the bevel of the shoulder cut shelves and back.
The shape of the breast of the female figure vary from high, normal and low chest. The size and shape of the breast depends on the size and length of a breast tuck.
Depending on the form of the abdomen of the figure are slim, normal and full. For full figures must take into account the protrusion of the abdomen.
Profile pieces can be bent, normal or pereghibati. For round-shouldered shapes lenght on the back increases for pereghibati decreases.
The figures can well have different proportions: 1) the normal ratio, 2) figure with long limbs and a short trunk, 3) shape, with relatively short limbs and long torso.
It is important that when measuring the man was a natural, relaxed, otherwise measurements will be inaccurate. The tape should be tightly fitting shape. If the measurements produced by Belew, the tape is laid out freely. If measurements are performed on the dress, the skirt, the pants, the tape is stretched slightly, to get more accurate measurements. Measurements recorded in the full amount, when recording it is more convenient to use the shorthand given in parentheses.
 

In Fig. 82 shows the plots of the measurements of the figure.

1. Growth (R) is measured without shoes. Measurement needed for more accurate determination of the proportions of the figure and establishing the fabric consumption for the product.
2. The neck girth (Osh ) - inch tape with no tension, but tight to the body, passes through the base of the neck, the front closes above the clavicles.
3. Chest girth (CG) - the tape passes at women through the protruding point of the breast, men and children - through liner point.
4. Girth of the waist (From) - tape runs horizontally around the torso at locations of maximum deflection of the body.
5. The circumference of the hips (About). If no stomach, tape applied to the gluteus point and carried horizontally around the body.
If you have the stomach, thigh girth measured taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen. The tape is applied to the gluteal point, is carried horizontally, the front flexible plate (you can use cardboard or poster Board), applied vertically to the stomach. You can just ease in measuring tape to give an appropriate allowance. Remove the yardstick diagonally across the gluteal point and protrusion of the abdomen is not recommended, because in this case the dimension will be bigger than it is actually.
6. The width of the chest (CC) in women measure over the base of the breast, above the corners of the armpits; men and children - between the front angles of armpits. The tape lies horizontally.
7. This example shows two dimensions. Breast height (Sh) - from the base of the neck to the protruding point of the breast in women or to point the nipple in men.
Length waist in front (Accident) - from the base of the neck through the protruding point of the breast:do women (or using a liner point in men) ribbon runs vertically down to the waist line.
8. The width of the back (SHS) is measured on the blades between the rear corners of the armpits. The tape lies horizontally.
9. The length of the back waist (TPA) is measured from the neck point along the spine to the waist line. When slouching back on the protruding points of the blades impose a ruler and the length of the back waist is measured using a ruler.
10. Shoulder width (FR) measured from the point the base of the neck in the middle of the shoulder slope to shoulder joint (the place of tacki sleeves).
11. The sleeve length (Dr) is measured from the shoulder point through the elbow to the circumference of the wrist for long sleeves. On model or optional length sleeves can be elbow, short or 3/4 (halfway between the wrist and the elbow).
12. Arm circumference (Op) is measured horizontally, the upper edge of the tape measure touches the rear corner of the armpit. If hands are full at the top, it is necessary to verify this measurement (plus 5 - 8 cm for loose fit) with the size of the corresponding area on the pattern order in advance to make changes to the width of the sleeves and the width of the openings. Otherwise, cut the sleeve can be narrow and will have to extend the armhole to make the wedge on the sleeve, or add a lower half sleeve.
13. The circumference of the wrist (OSAP) measure through the wrist. Merc need the products long sleeve, especially if the bottom sleeve is assembled on the elastic band or cuff ends.
14. The length of the product I (Di) measure from the neck point to the desired length depending on the product. For dresses, coat length is oriented along the line of the knee (above or below depending on mods), for jackets and blazers - at the hip line (on the line of the hips or lower, also depending on mods).
15. The length of the product II (Di) for skirts, measure from waist line to desired length; can be measured on the side or on the front, Then on the pattern length or notes on the side or the front depending on how this measure was removed.
For pants, except From and additionally removed the following measurements.
16. The length of the pants (DBR) measured on the side of the waist line vertically to the middle of the heel of the Shoe or to the desired length of the trousers. Measurement for men it is desirable to remove the figure in the pants, then once you can determine how worn the pants: in a natural place (at the waist), below the waist line, on the belly or under the belly for full figures.
17. Hip girth upper (Obeta) measured horizontally at the top figures that have developed muscles to provide it while cutting. To free fit for normal pants provides 8 - 10 see otherwise after fitting you will have to add wedges to the rear halves. This measurement is necessary and in shorts.
18. Seat height (Vs) measured in sitting position from the waist line to the horizontal plane of the seat. The plane of the seat shall be rigid. If pants not worn at the natural place, it is still checked and seat length (from waist front through the bottom of the torso to the waist line of the back), which are then taken into account when cutting. The short length of the seat to fix it to the longest possible, removing the excess along the seam of the seat; long seam of the seat to correct the only case that was left significant stock on the length of the pants.
In women's clothing these symbols appear on the labels of finished products and patterns in the fashion magazines. Accepted for the main three characteristics: height, chest girth, thigh girth. The size is indicated in the product three digits in the sequence, for example, 158-96-104. The ratio of Rostov in women's clothing: I - 146 cm, II - 152 cm, III - 158 cm, IV - 164 cm, V - 170, see the Difference between hip and waist girth identifies completeness. So, 96 - 100, the first completeness, a difference of 4.0 cm; 96 - 104 - the fullness of the second, a difference of 8 cm; 96 - 108 - third complete, a difference of 12 cm (see table. 2).

In the men's ready-made clothes for major take the following three features: height, bust, waist. In the same sequence they indicate the size on the labels of finished products, for example, 176 - 100 - 88. The ratio of the growth in the menswear: I - 158 cm, II - 164 cm, III - 170 cm, IV - 176 cm, V - 182 cm, VI - 188 cm, the Fullness in mens clothing defines the difference between bust girth and waist girth. For completeness (100 - 82) the difference is equal to 18 cm; for the second completeness (100 - 88) the difference is 12 cm, the third completeness (100 - 94) the difference of 6 cm (see table. 3).

In the children's clothing main take two features: height and chest girth, for example 92 - 56, or 146 - 76.
For all fullness and in all product groups, the difference between adjacent sizes for bust, hips and waist is 4.0 cm between adjacent growth - 6,0 cm