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Home » Articles » The ABCs of sewing

The types of machine seams

The connecting joints. Regional seams. Finishing seams, folds, edges.

Household sewing machines are lockstitch machines. They are mainly, you can perform the sanding and zigzag stitching. Shuttle stitches are formed upper and lower threads interwoven inside the sewn material (Fig. 32).
 


The most common machine stitching is sanding. Zigzag stitching is different from sanding that on the front of the thread are arranged in a zigzag (Fig. 33).
 
Zigzag stitching can be frequent, wide or narrow zigzag, depending on the length and width of stitches.
 
A zigzag stitch is more elastic, so is used to hold the slices from crumbling, as well as for tissue butt or patch seam (Fig. 34 a, b), for serging loops.
 
Depending on the purpose, the joints are divided into connective, edge and finishing.
 
 JointsBridging the seam is the most common. Bridging the seam vrazalic (Fig. 35) is used for bonding of parts top. Depending on the model used seam usautoco (Fig. 36). It is used also in thin fabrics and the processing of padding.
 
 Topstitched seam - a kind of bridging. When the seam allowances are arranged on the two sides and fixed lines ( Fig. 37). Applied to the tissues, where it is impossible to resaturate, but you need to fix a seam and also to trim details of the product.
 

 
 Nastroni seam occurs with open sections (Fig. 38 a) and closed one cut (Fig. 38 b). Mainly used in outerwear, with open sections in the articles of easypayday materials. Products in the unlined seams are overcast.
 
 Patch seam it happens both with open and closed sections. Patch seam with exposed slices (Fig. 39 a) the easiest connecting seam. Used for joining strips, which are then closed by the lining. Slip stitch closed cut (Fig. 39 b) is much more complicated, requires a preliminary outline of the same part or saulugne. Then prepared the upper part is superimposed on the bottom and connects.
 
Mainly used for the connection piece yoke, patch pockets.
 
 Underwear seams are the most durable, as the products in which they are used, are subjected to frequent washings. Double seam used in the manufacture of linen, sometimes summer products (Fig. 40). The first line of the weld is performed, the folding parts with wrong side inside, stepping back from the edge of 0.3 - 0.4 cm, the second line is performed after the reversing of the details, stepping back from the edge of 0.5 - 0.7 see
 

 
 Lapped seam used in the manufacture of coats, jackets. Most suitable narrow lapped seam as more economical. Wide lapped seam is thinner and more elastic (Fig. 41).
 
 Regional seams. The regional joints are divided into edging to the hem and obtenue. Edging seams perform with the help of ribbon or strips of fabric cut on the bias.
 
 Seam open cut (Fig. 42) treated with a strip of cloth, the first stitch width of 0.5 cm, then folded the strip and next to the first seam lay the second line. Strip width of 2 - 2.5 cm In seam with closed slices strips of width 3 - 3.5 cm Strip of pre-iron in the middle, and open sections connecting the first opening with the product (Fig. 43). Then a second stitch fix striped. If the single strip, one side striped pritachivajut to the product, the strip bends and second line scribbled (Fig. 44).
 

 
 The seam tape (Fig. 45) mainly used for finishing details of clothing with the help of a special device or pre-basting.
 
 Seam to the hem open cut (Fig. 46) used in the products of easypayday materials.
 
 The seam at the hem with a shut cut (Fig. 47) is used in the products of legkopolirujushchiesja tissues. The width of the seam in the hem of 1.0 - 4.0 cm
 
 Oblasnoy the seam in the rim (Fig. 48) is used for processing of edges of details. Line connection details in altechna seam is shifted for the formation of Kant.
 
 Oblasnoy seam in the frame (Fig. 49) has one line, which fixed two layers and one single layer of the second part.
 
 Finishing seams. Finishing seams are a variety of pleats, Princess seams and seams with piping.
 
 Folds are unilateral and bilateral, finishing and connective. With a large number of folds in the product they can be finishing, and a small portion connecting, so as the seam stitching of the panels should always be placed in the crease.
 

 
 Finishing folds are located on the same part. Counting the required number of unilateral pleats, mark the middle and the sides (Fig. 50 a), bend in the middle, namachivajut according to the planned lines, sew on a certain length (Fig. 50 b), priorivet and, if necessary, perform a finishing line (Fig. 50)
 
So, if the depth of the folds 5 cm, mark the middle and at both sides lay 5 cm, i.e. the allowance on one-way pleat in this case is 10 cm, Respectively, for the folds to a depth of b or 7 cm allowance for the pleat will be 12 or 14 cm.
 

 
 Bilateral folds of the outline just as unilateral, just symmetrically to the center (Fig. 51 a). Bend in the middle, namachivajut, grind, priorivet, with folds in different directions (Fig. 51 b) and, if necessary, of the model, perform a finishing line (Fig. 51).
 
 Connective unilateral folds are the same as with finishing, but it has a seam (Fig. 52 a), which is the middle of the folds. Location of seam in the middle of the crease can give the defect in the product, the fabric will puff up. From seam mark the depth of the folds, namachivajut, grind off (Fig. 52 b), priorivet, if necessary, perform a finishing line. In the bilateral connecting the folds of the inner part is calculated depending on the depth of the folds, the distance between them and the seams at the connection (Fig. 53).
 
So, if the depth of the folds 6 cm and the distance between them is 5 cm, then the width of the insert is equal to (depth of pleat x 2) + (seam X 2) + distance between the folds. In the specific example, the width of the insert is equal to (6 x 2) + (1 x 2) + 5 = 12 + 2 + 5 = 19 see
 

 
 Princess seams are used as finishing their perform, zastraivaya fabric at a distance of 0.1 - 0.3 cm from the inflection of the front side (Fig. 54), or by placing inside out the cloth, make two parallel lines with distance between them of 0,5 - 0,7 cm and prodelyvat cord (Fig. 55).
 
 Seams with piping are mainly used to emphasize parts (valves, collars, side yoke). - How to carry a ribbon or strip of cloth with a width of 2.0 - 3.0 cm (depending on the finished appearance of Kant) bend in half and pritachivajut on the line of the finished part (Fig. 56 a). Then fold the top and the lining parts face inward and grind them on the line of primaqiune Kant or place of primaqiune Kant, then it will not be visible from the face (Fig. 56 b). Item turn (Fig. 56).
 

 
In yoke, patch pockets, cuffs participantsa first Kant, then trim seam upper detail, pre-press or done (Fig. 57).
 
When performing products with two edges processing sequence is saved, only the edges must be pre-connected (Fig. 58). Use in oblachnykh the details of the two edges is hindered by the complexity of processing, and in direct parts first to Topstitch first by Kant, then by seam primaqiune first piping from the back to secure the stitching stripes of the second of Kant, enclosing it from the front (Fig. 59). Then bend the second edge and secure the line to the desired width (Fig. 59 b). This treatment is somewhat more complicated, but the edges are sharper and thinner seam.
 

 
To reduce the thickness of the seam with the inner edges of their slices can be carved step, leaving from 0.4 to 0.8 cm (Fig. 59). Summer women's, and children's products can be trimmed on the edge at the same time edging and edging. Kant - a narrow strip of the trim fabric is embedded in the seam or nastraivatsa on the seam. Edging - a strip of any width for finishing the edges of the parts, open cuts, armholes, and hem.
 
Strips for the edging and the edging should be cut at a 45° angle: for Kant - of a width up to 2.0 cm edging - 2,5 - 3,0 see the First at the edge of the part primatives twice folded strip of edging, seam width 0,3 - 0,5 cm, then the inside is laid next to the first line, simultaneously from the bottom flush with the cut is enclosed by a strip of edging (Fig. 60 a). Edging around the slice podymaetsja and primitives with fixed line at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge (Fig. 60 b). The use of edging and edging of different colors gives an interesting, elegant effect.
 

 
As finishing in the top products can be used ribbons, artificial and genuine leather (straps). Pre-basted braid nastraivatsa in detail (Fig. 61 a) or the suture (Fig. 61 b). If tape wider than necessary model, it is possible to pre-Topstitch one side, then turn and Topstitch on both sides, leaving the excess width inside (Fig. 62). In the products without a padding, the seams can be Stacey on the front side, and closed resutured finishing braid (Fig. 63). Or strip of cloth, cut a 45° angle, placed in the grinding of the weld face (Fig.64 a), then podymaetsja and nastraivatsa from both sides (Fig. 64 b), the seam in this case usautoco. As a finishing can be used half folded strip of twill (Fig. 65), the probability of rashes finishing in this case the smallest.
 

 
Braid is recommended before use soak to let the natural shrinkage to work. Not recommended for fabric strips to find a common thread, as they are in the process of operation will shrink. Strips cut on the bias, the most elastic. When faux leather-based might not be in color, then it should bend (Fig. 66).Nastraivanie artificial or genuine leather can be made without prior namachivanija, as are the punctures from the needle, so you need certain skills, in this case, the desired scheduled lines that serve as a guide for keeping the stitching.



Category: The ABCs of sewing | Added by: 16.10.2017
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