Straight, oblique, cross-shaped, hook-shaped, special stitches. Manual stitches.

The details of the garment are interconnected by one or more threads. This compound is called a stitch. Repeating one by one the stitches form a line. Stitching, fastening the several parts to form a seam.
Perform hand stitches with sewing needles 12 rooms with a diameter of from 0.6 to 1.8 mm. For dress and linen fabrics use needles No. 1, 2, 3 (diameter of 0.6 - 0.7 mm), thread cotton No. 80, 60, 50; silk No. 65; suit fabrics-needle No. 4, 5, 6 (diameter 0.6 - 0.9 mm), thread cotton No. 40, 50, silk No. 33, overcoat fabrics - needle No. 7, 8, 9, 10 (diameter 0,9 - 1,2 mm), thread cotton No. 40, 30, silk No. 18.

Hand stitches are formed in two ways depending on how the pierced material. In the first method the needle is introduced and withdrawn at the puncture with one hand (Fig. 1). This method is most useful as more productive. In the second method the needle is inserted from one side, but flush on the other (Fig. 2). The second method used for the buttonhole loops, sections of parts, the implementation of clips in the end pockets, stitched creases.
When sewing clothing used five main types of hand stitches: straight, oblique, cross-shaped, hook-shaped and looped.
  Straight stitches. Straight stitches are mainly used for temporary fastening lines, as they are the most simple and easy to bloom.
  A running stitch (Fig. 3) is applied when the preliminary connection of the main parts of the product - smachivanie shoulder, side cuts, vetiveria sleeveless in underarm products.
  Copy stitch (Fig. 4) transfer of lines from one part to another. The desired line of paving a running stitches that are not tight, and form a loop in the line, requiring a transfer. Then open the fabric (the stitches stretched at the same time), the threads between the sewn parts are cut. The segments of threads emerging from tissue, their ends determine the direction of the intended line.
  Basting stitch fasten the two parts that impose on one another ( Fig. 5). These stitches attach podborta to the product, namachivajut side laying on the shelf.

  Zametnym stitch (Fig. 6) fixed bends the edge of the part, e.g., bottom of sleeves and hem.
  Mymethodname stitch bonded to the edges of the parts, pre-machined machine stitch and twist is obvious (Fig. 7.). Spawn valves, bead collars before utjuzhkoj and before laying the finishing line.
Using straight stitches to form assemblies (Fig. 8) in the production of light women's and children's dresses. Build collected on a string, the length of which depends on the desired length of the Assembly. To build better fit, it is recommended to lay the thread in two rows, grabbing the second row the same threads of the fabric, which had been captured in the first, at a distance of 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the first row.

  Slanting stitches. Oblique stitches are more elastic and provide a more durable bond than straight. They also perform temporary (basting and vymetaya) and the final bond details (a blanket stitch, blind stitch and invisible inner for connection details).
  Basting stitch (Fig. 9) used in the location line at a small distance from the cut parts (1.5 - 2.0 cm). For example, when namachivaya of podborov on shelves, top collar, bottom, valve at podlipan.
  Vymeny stitch used in the inflorescence emerge the edges of collars, flanges, valves outerwear (Fig. 10). For delicate fabrics and materials with geometric pattern do not use them, as tight stitches slant the contraction can distort the picture.
  Overlock stitch (Fig. 11) use the fixing cut parts from fraying. The whip is used to open the seams when sewing products without the padding and for securing the slotted holes of hinges. When the whipping thread tightly clenching the cut of the fabric and go with a spiral shape.
  Quilting stitches (Fig. 12) connect the two layers of fabric, for example, when connecting the pads with the cloth top (lapel, collar), the top fabric is captured partially. The seal should not be taut against the fabric top.
Podtsvechennye stitches (Fig. 13) is used to reinforce (binder) bent edges of the parts with the open cut of easypayday tissue and edges with closed cut (Fig. 14) on thin tissue. Blind stitch line can be applied to hold the cut top of the collar to the bottom. Open stitches blind stitch a spiral shape (Fig. 15) sew the edges of the bent parts but difficult to spill and tissues. Doing these stitches with a needle to simultaneously pierce the bottom detail, capturing only part of its thickness, and the bent edge of the second part.Blind stitch stitches quilting and belong to a secret, since the thread is only visible from the side of the perforation.

  Cross-shaped stitches. Cross stitches are composed of intersecting threads, which are firmly secured sections, protecting them from fraying (Fig. 16).
  Figure blind stitch stitches ("goat") apply for filing the bottom of skirts, trousers. These stitches are performed in two stages: the first puncture needle in the bent edge of a fixed tissue and a second puncture with the needle in the base fabric. Cross stitches can be accomplished by a small length of thread extending inside of the fabric, so the seam from the front bent edge of the fabric is invisible (not the hem).
  Loop-like stitches. Loop-like stitches give the most solid connection of tissues (Fig. 17). They perform a blind stitch, uspeshnye line (internal connection between the two layers of fabric) and secure the end of the line.
  Blind stitch loop-shaped stitches are used for the filing of the bent edges with a closed cut (Fig. 18), e.g. patch pockets, lining products on the bottom and the armhole of the sleeves.
  Wspolna line on the front side of the product has a subtle short stitches in the form of dots (Fig. 19), and on the other hand, short stitches. Uspeshnye stitches are used for fastening and trim details on the edge. For example, the edge flanges, valves, collar, hem, men's jackets and women's jackets.
Fixed loop-like stitches and the ends of the lines. Lines of temporary connection details fix one or two stitches and the final two-three. The thread at the end of the cut.
  Special stitches. Special stitches perform clips, loops, sew buttons, hooks, buttons.
Loop overcastlooped stitches. Depending on the type of product is used the hinge eye (blazers, jackets, coats); direct (lingerie, dress, trousers); wide (trim lapels of coats, suits).

Wide loops are finishing (Fig. 20 a) and are ReportName. Direct loop overcast after cutting (Fig. 20 b). When the buttonhole loops by eye (Fig. 20) are paving the reinforcing thread to the bump pattern and strength of the loop. One end of the loop is fixed to two cross stitches that are wrapped with multiple turns.
  With clips (staples) fasten the ends of the pockets, loops, slits, folds. They consist of two stretched yarn (so-called core) is tightly covered by the same thread. To make a clip, first pierce the fabric from the bottom, then from top to bottom (Fig. 21). The third puncture do again first. Thread left on the front side of the fabric, and pull on it to form the coils. Thus for each revolution of the thread are twisted around base. The coils may need to impose tighter to each other. Filling in the base, the thread is carried out on the wrong side and fix two or three stitches.
The buttons on the clothes sew on the stem (Fig. 22 a) loose stitches between the button and fabric there is a gap for the formation of the legs. Line of stitches between the button and fabric wrapped with several coils, the ends of the thread fixed loop-like stitches.
Dresses, lingerie, children's clothing buttons are sewn close to the fabric (Fig. 22 b). The buttons are flush to the fabric sew when fully tightening the stitches, and the end of the thread is also fixed loop-like stitches. Button with eyelet from sew close to the fabric (Fig. 22). Hooks, loops and buttons are sewn to the product slanted stitches (Fig. 23).

  A seam in a spin (Fig. 24) is used for the binder edge details, cutouts for lace proxu, when sealing tutu is sewing stitch. At the time of filing the thumb of the left hand tightening the fabric against the index finger of the same hand.
  The seam over the edge (Fig. 25) is used in cases when it is necessary to stitch the edge of fabric, sew lace, etc.