THE DESIGN OF THE TOP CASUAL CLOTHES FOR MEN AND WOMEN 

The top women's and men's clothing is intended mainly to protect people from external influences of nature: from cold, heat, wind, rain. Wear it out of the interior of residential, office and other premises, on a city street, village, villages, nature. Some exceptions to this General purpose in our climatic conditions are only such clothes as men's blazers, jackets and women's jackets that can be clothing, wearable both indoors and outside, especially in the warmer time of the year.
In their outerwear range consists of: suits, jackets, jacket with skirt or pants, coats, short coats, pelerine. Processing upper garment is characterized by great complexity and high cost of materials compared to other types of clothing.
Of particular importance for the design of outerwear is the difference in the seasons. For the winter season intend fur-natural and artificial, combination of fabric and fur, fabric and other materials on the insulation lining. It can be coat-fur coats, short coats, jackets, jackets. For spring - autumn use coats, suits, jackets, coats, capes from heavy fabrics and for fabrics of medium thickness, natural and artificial leather and other materials.
Intended for summer coats, raincoats, overcoats, suits, coats, jackets, capes (rainwear, boots) the of lightweight fabrics and materials.
For clothes each assignment is characterized by their basic shapes-designs that are prevalent for quite a long time. The main fashion outerwear now: poluprilegayuschy, direct free and free expanded or narrowed downwards, with sleeves set-in, Raglan, cap, and mix.
All of these bases depending on the purpose of clothing have their own distinctive characteristics, determined by different ratio of its proportions, contours, degree of freedom fit for the main structural zones, the difference of the construction of the main parts (back, shelves, sleeves, collar, etc.).
Developed forms of clothing due to fashion trends, the demands of the purpose of clothing, season, applied materials, requirements of the utility.
Style is outerwear distinguish as well as effortless dress: classic style, sports style and forms of "Fantasia".
The range of materials for clothing is quite extensive here use woven fabrics of cotton, silk, wool, linen, synthetic. Mostly fabrics for clothing more dense, heavy, thick than the fabric for easy dresses.
In addition to fabrics at the top with the clothes is of great importance for applied finishing materials: pads, linings, finish etc. Linings are not only utilitarian, but artistic value. Lining is used mainly solid with smooth-sliding surface, most often it is twill, satin-double, Changan, satin-Novate and the like silk fabric. Also used for the lining with woven or printed pattern.
Lining is selected or tonal nuance to a base fabric or finish (e.g., fur) or by contrast. Selection of a lining in tone or in contrast helps to associate a number of garments in the set (for example, a coat with a dress or suit). Some types of materials: fabric with fleece and patterned (plaid, stripe, etc.), artificial and natural fur is used as lining for winter and demi-season coat. Lining, quilted with insulation materials in the form of cells, lozenges, strips are decorative trim products.
As the insulation strips can be applied the cotton wool (cotton, wool blend, wool, synthetic), batting, feathers eider, a foam.
In winter, spring and autumn clothing of tissues loose and rare structures use windproof strip of thick cotton and synthetic silk fabrics.
To give and set in clothing used gasket materials: calico, calico, bead fabric, linen and hair, hair, foam rubber, etc. Burlap Welt pockets in women's clothing cut out of lining fabric, and mens clothing from satin, fabric pocket, flannel stories (the last two fabrics used for winter clothing).
The quality finishes are used: natural and artificial fur, natural and artificial leather, suede, plush, velvet, fabric finishing, cords, ribbons, various kind of accessories - buttons, buckles, zippers, buttons etc.
With all the variety of forms of men's and women's outerwear they have the same basic parts: a back, shelves, sleeves, collar. Jacket, jacket, coats and short coats differ mainly in their proportions of length, width details. Design of clothing start with the creative solution of its purpose, usage and required communications with other wearable human garments and supplements, components of a complete set or ensemble. Connection the top and other types of clothing in the set or ensemble are subject to unity of purpose solution.It is clear that elegant dress for the evening requires an appropriate solution and coat, coat or short coat, solved in a sporty style, requires that similarly was solved dress or suit.
The decision forms the upper garment also depends on the extent of volume, size of geometric shapes an easy dress to which it is put. This dependence can be reversed to small volume forms the upper garment doing little in terms of the volume of the dress.
The composition of the shapes of individual types of outerwear, both male and female, begins with the definition of its geometric shape, silhouette, characteristic of current fashion. Each mode emphasizes certain parts of the garments: sleeves, shoulders, chest, back, waist, thighs or bottom of the skirt. Great attention with the clothes they give her closure. All outerwear are usually with a variety of zipper single-breasted, double-breasted, butt.The location of the fastener may be symmetrical or asymmetrical, with definitely solvable articulation of form and rhythm placement is solved simultaneously with the other parts of the clothing, shape of collar, lapels, pockets, yoke, straps, belts, etc. Sleeves can be a variety of forms: dilated, constricted, ruched at the bottom or top, terminating in cuffs with pull tabs, PATA. Can be one-piece, double seam, gusset pouches and mnogotomnym. Outerwear may be the most diverse in the form of collars, and there may be no collar, with hood, scarf, boa.
Clothing items - backrest and shelves, depending on the overall shape of clothes can be one piece or consist of several parts with different structural and decorative lines: seams, reliefs, folds, slots, slits.
Jackets, jackets, jackets and coats can vary in length depending on the fashion and its composite solutions and various degrees of contact with clothing, their complementing skirt, trousers,, in the form of an independent suit or as a kit.
  Costumes for men and women. The costume consists of a combination of two, sometimes three garments: women's - jacket or a jacket and skirt or trousers, vests; men's - jacket or jackets and trousers.
The items that comprise the suit, usually carried out of the same material, but sometimes of different materials. For spring and summer costumes are lighter, thinner fabric, for winter and fall - more dense, heavy fabric. Women's costume for the street in the cold season made from heavy materials of the overcoat type jacket can be with insulated lining and collar trimmed in fur. Costumes can be made in a classic, sporty style or "fantasy". The focus in the design of costumes drawn on the proportions of the jacket, jacket, jacket to the skirt or pants.Length of jacket, jackets, jacket, is determined depending on the direction of fashion and costume purpose. In a female suit jacket, the jacket can vary in length, from short, slightly closing the waist, to long, just above the knee, clothing of the "Cossack", "truakar". The articulation of the suit horizontally can be solved and depending on selection as the main part of the bottom or top of the costume (skirt, trousers or jacket).
In the men's suit jacket length or the jacket though more stable, but also dependent on fashion, purpose of the costume and composite partitioning it in order of importance the top and bottom.
Suits casual destination have the same characteristic, that casual and light dress, as it suits for the interior have the same purpose, and that light dress. Casual outfits have a more pronounced seasonal appointment. The degree of emotional expression in suit - formality, simplicity, elegance - will depend on the nature of man, purpose of suit.

In Fig. 118 shows four female suit different purposes: Fig. 118 and - classic-style suit with a blouse can be used as a daily, for the service to work indoors, and the streets in the warm season. The costume consists of a jacket of the modern form (lightly attached in front and free on the back) and straight skirt with back pleat for step. The costume depicted in Fig. 118, b, sporty style, consists of a short jacket adjacent the front and direct rear, and skirts that extended downward, with pleats front and back.The purpose of this costume can be same as suit in Fig. 118. The same costume is made of thick woolen fabric, can be used for the streets in the autumn and spring. Shown in Fig. 118, in costume
designed for the streets in the autumn and spring. The long jacket of thick wool fabric, inverted pleat on the back, trimmed with fur on the collar, the skirt is straight with an inverted pleat in the back. The suit resolved in sporty style. Suit in Fig. 118, g for the street in winter, sewn from a warm wool boucle on the batting. Jacket, long, modern shape, with cap sleeves and straight collar trimmed with blue Fox fur and bow. Pleated skirt in one-way or fold around. The costume "Fantasia".
Men's suits, like women, used to work for the service exit. Men's suits also differ by season. Seasonality is determined by the choice of fabrics. Men's suits are done only in classical and sports styles. For the street in the cold season - winter, fall - only use the jacket in conjunction with pants. Jackets are designed mostly for socks home and in an institution for going outside, they are used only in the warm season.
Jacket classic style is characterized by more or less fitted shape, presence of a characteristic of a collar and lapels side, not buttoned to the top, double seam set-in sleeves with vented hem at the bottom, two Welt pockets with flap closure or processed in the frame, and one upper pocket with leaves or processed in a frame. The backrest is a whole or with the seam in the middle, without the slot or slots in the side or middle seams. Jackets can be single breasted and double breasted with zipper on one, two, three and four buttons. Shelves coat can be straight and beveled.Trousers are trousers, they can be straight, narrowed down or expanded, with a cuff or without, depending on the fashion.
Jackets sporty style distinguished by the presence of pockets of various forms, including invoices, strap or belt, yoke, undercuts, folds.
With sports jackets, in addition to the normal pants, trousers, wear trousers and Golf breeches.

In Fig. 119 shows two of the male costume of the classical forms - breasted (Fig. 119, a) and a double-breasted (Fig. 119, b) and two suits sports style (Fig. 119, a, g). Jackets latest suits have flap pockets, waist outwear belt tightened.
  Summer outerwear for men and women. From this group of clothing should be noted ' overcoats, car coats, capes, and cloaks. Summer top clothing is divided into casual and dressy. Women's summer outerwear is solved in the styles of classic, sports and "fantasy", men's - classic and sports styles. In its form summer outerwear is almost always free, straight or flared.Summer coats and capes made from light wool, silk, cotton and synthetic fabrics, cloaks and capes-the raincoats of cotton, impregnated fabrics, silk and synthetic fabrics impregnated with plastic materials. Sleeve coat and short coat of different cut: set-in, Raglan and cap. Capes make sleeveless with various slits for hands. Clasps are mostly single breasted but can be double breasted.
Summer outerwear for ease of doing sometimes unlined or with cropped lining to the waist line or up to the armhole. The lining in this dress also plays a decorative role. Cloaks are primarily utilitarian clothing, so special attention is paid to the practical details: do closed pockets, comfortable sleeves, collar, protective hood or cap, storm flap for the best intelliremote, removable capes with hoods etc. the Main decorative finishes raincoats are machine stitching, hardware, lining. Also important is the color and pattern of the coat.
As casual summer wear cloaks now almost supplanted the use of the summer coat. Both men and women
prefer easy, comfortable, practical and elegant cloaks of cotton and nylon fabrics.
Capes-capes, and coats, used to protect from the rain. They are less comfortable than raincoats, as some restrict arm movement. Capes are sewn from cheap synthetic films, they are simple in shape, with a single-breasted closure, hoods or scarves and slits for hands. Capes and used as a elegant clothing, then they are made of more expensive and beautiful materials.

In Fig. 120 shows women's summer outerwear: a simple summer coat (Fig. 120, a) classic style, more elegant summer coat (Fig. 120, b) is also a classic style coat (Fig. 120, b) from nylon with the cap and drape the raincover (Fig. 120, g) with hood.
Women's summer short coat solved similar coat, only their length is shorter.

In Fig. 121 shows men's clothing summer coat (Fig. 121, a) direct form with vtachnoy sleeve summer coat casual Raglan (Fig. 121, b), the cloak (Fig. 121, b) from nylon with cap sleeves and pelerine with a hood (Fig. 121, g). Men's short coat for the summer coat are solved similarly and almost indistinguishable in their length (as the coat is now short).
  Autumn top women's and men's clothing. Demi-season coats, jackets are worn in the cold season of spring and autumn. As outerwear, worn over easy dresses, they must be associated with a light dress with a unity of style solutions and means of compositional relations. Pay special attention to the combination of short coat or jacket with the clothing that they put on as coats and jacket do not close skirt, dress, pants. All these types of winter clothing are based on forms one and the same substrate cut and differ only in their length.Demi-season coats and jackets made mostly from thick wool and wool blend fabrics, genuine and artificial leather, suede.
Recently widely used as various cotton and silk fabrics impregnated, and a new duplicate materials.
Jackets and coats are dealt with mainly in the sporty style, as too obvious convenience and practicality of the lengths of these garments. This applies to women's and men's clothing.
Coat jacket for women mainly everyday use can be classic, sporty styles, and forms of "fantasy". Men's winter coat are solved only in classic and sports styles.

In Fig. 122 shows women's jackets, coats and coats demi-season. In Fig. 122, a shows jacket double breasted overcoat fabric, worn with a dress or skirt and a sweater, and a beret of the fabric of the dress or skirt; Fig. 122, b - the same jacket, belt tightened, collar trimmed with fabric from which to sew the skirt; Fig. 122, shown in short coat casual Raglan sleeves, collar and pocket flaps trimmed with corduroy, pants and hat of the same velvet; Fig. 122, g - elegant winter coat from the white drape with collar brown mink fur; Fig.122, d - demi coat sports style. Recently, women's winter clothes as a decoration widely used fur.

In Fig. 123 presents men's demi seasonal jackets, coats and coats, including coat (Fig. 123, a) and tartan fabric overcoat-type jacket (Fig. 123, b) of nylon, quilted to the batting, half-length (Fig. 123, in) with zipper on the cords, short coat (Fig. 123, g) with cap-sleeve jacket coat Raglan (Fig. 123, d). Men's winter clothing mostly direct silhouettes, form-fitting clothing is less common and is solved in a classic style with set-in sleeves.
  Winter casual clothes for men and women. This clothes includes coats of fabric on a warming pad and fur. The main requirement for winter clothing - protection against cold and dampness.
The stylistic and compositional solutions clothes winter similar to winter, differing by a greater use of fur trim. If clothing made of fur or its use, pay attention to specific qualities and characteristics of fur as the main material or finish. In winter clothes is practically very difficult to organize its complex shape due to various insulated pads.
Top quality fur used for winter garment - it is the color and structure of hair, the height, density, softness, Shine, strength, thermal insulation properties and plasticity of the membrane. In our country there are more than a hundred species of fur-bearing animals, skins which go for fur dressing. The most beautiful and valuable of furs: sable, beaver, marten, mink, otter, seal, Fox, polar Fox, ermine, Persian lamb and others Beautiful but less valuable fur: columns, nutria, lynx, leopard, Fox, squirrel, rabbit, mole, etc. Fur klassificeret along the length of the hair and its form.Long-haired furs: Fox, Fox, raccoon; fur srednebelaya marten, lynx, sable, beaver, mink, etc.; nizkovolos fur: stallion, seal, mole, gopher, etc.; a fur: Karakul, Sashka, lambskin, broadtail, clam.
The development of the fur industry has expanded the possibility of imitation and beautification of cheap furs, such as rabbit under seal, column by mink, sheepskin under otter, leopard etc.
Should focus on the different types of faux fur from synthetic fibers. Faux fur in appearance can approach to natural furs. Coloring in various colors with a different pattern and texture, simplicity of technological process of cutting and the manufacture of winter garments, the use of the quality finishes make faux fur interesting material for the artist-designer.
The possibility of using fur skins for clothing and decoration vary depending on cutting. Hair on the skin is not the same everywhere, it can have different color, pattern, length, hair direction and density. The shape and size of the skins is also important. This leads to the kind of furrier's work, dress or decoration. For fur finishes in winter clothes key is the proper selection of the fur to the form skroiv.

In Fig. 124 shows the models of women's fur coats using variously located furs. In Fig. 124, and shows a short coat made of mink fur with vertical pelts on the cuffs of the sleeves, the skins are located in the transverse direction. In Fig. 124, b - coat of mink horizontal pelts. In Fig. 124, shown in a fur coat proteins with a characteristic arrangement of the belts; Fig. 124, g - coat column with the combined location of skins: on shelves - horizontally on sleeves and back- "Christmas tree", in Fig.124, d - fur coat from fur of a muskrat with an arrangement of skins "Christmas tree" on the sleeves, back, and shelves. Small skins (mole, gopher, Sandstone, protein, columns and other) kids at the pre-designed templates. Large pelts: rabbit, Groundhog, nutria, and others tailor the templates designed specifically for each model. Without templates cut out of skins of a fur: Karakul, klama, Saski, broadtail, as well as the skins of sheepskin, seals, stallion, etc. of the Valuable fur for fur coats - mink, Fox and others are treated with more sophisticated methods: prospus, out, pointing, etc.Such techniques used to give the skin a different width, lengths, complex shapes of clothing items to change the direction hairline, density etc.
After cutting the pelts of different mechs remain waste - tails, feet, necks. These wastes in the fur industry used for making wafers that are then cut out of a fur - coat, short coat etc. Plate is assembled from proteins, Karakul paws, legs etc. merlushka the Tails of foxes and mink used to trim women's coat, hat (to make coats scarfs, the ends of which trim the tails of the mink). Most furs used for women's clothing. Silhouettes of women's coats from long-haired furs and srednebelaya very simple: straight, narrowed down or extended.Set-in sleeves, straight or flared.
Fur products made of furs nizkovolos more varied in form, more akin to products from the tissues. Especially various forms of women's coats from furs such as clam, broadtail.
Fur winter clothes for men is available in limited quantities. Mostly coats and short coats. On the short coat use a short-skins of the seal, stallion, deer, sheepskin. More common fur coats - sheepskin coats when fur snow boots used flesh side out. The scrapings excrete a suede or skin. Shape them a little different from all forms of men's coats of fabrics.
Fur collars and trimmings of fur.very diverse in form and size. Fur trim in women's clothing depending on fashion feature on the collar, sleeves, collars, pockets, hems, hips, shoulders, chest.

In Fig. 125 shows women's winter coat with fur trim winter coat (Fig. 125, a) straight-shaped, double-breasted closure, collar, and cuffs of fur silver Fox winter coat (Fig. 125, b) the semifitted, extended downturned shape, with cap sleeves, collar "season" of foxes; a winter coat (Fig. 125,) with characteristic shape vtachnye sleeves with fur trim from Astrakhan on the collar and on the Board outside; winter coats (Fig. 125,) of the straight silhouette, belt tightened, with fur of otters or nutria on the collar and lapel collars; winter coats (Fig.125, d) with cap sleeves and large collar, trimmed with lynx fur on the collar and on the inner side of the bead.
In the men's winter clothes (coats and jackets) fur trim only the collars, lapels collars and sometimes cuffs. Only in clothing with prominent folk and historical costumes, the location, the fur trim could be in other areas of the product, for example, in the clothing on his chest, on the side or bottom of sleeves and products.

In Fig. 126 shows a men's winter coat with fur-trimmed winter coat (Fig. 126, a) the fitted shape, double breasted, turn down collar trimmed with Astrakhan fur; coat (Fig. 126, b) straight shape, double-breasted, with pockets with leaves, shawl collar fur seal or beaver winter coats (Fig. 126,) with patch pockets and belt, a collar, lapels and sides trimmed with fur Tigaki; winter coats (Fig. 126, g), straight shape with Raglan sleeves with cuffs, with concealed zipper fly, collar trimmed with fur of otter; winter coats (Fig.126, d) single-breasted straight-shaped with cap sleeves and waist, fur collar nutria, kangaroo or Tigaki. For finishing men's winter clothing mostly use fur srednemirovoj and a groups: Karakul, sasku, beaver, otter, seal, beaver lamb skin, nutria, seal, Belek, kangaroo, monkey.
A large spread in the manufacture of winter clothes has got faux fur, especially for women's clothing casual and sporty. Faux fur is used for clothing and as insulation, decorative lining. Cutting faux fur is produced according to the type of cutting tissue, take into account only the direction of the pile.