In the practice of the art of designing clothes-costume fashion designer has to deal with the following main components:

1) a person - his appearance, figure, its major divisions and proportions;

2) human activities and surrounding environment;

3) clothing, its properties and form.

In this Chapter we will examine the components: the man, his characteristics, his activities and environment - the situation.

THE FIGURE OF A MAN

Of particular importance in the formation of a variety of clothes are separate parts of the human body, considered from the point of view of plastic anatomy as a reference of the form that are covered by clothing. These body parts include: head, neck, shoulders, chest, abdomen, back, buttocks, forearm, thigh and lower leg.

  Neck; the lower border of the neck is determined by the jugular notch in the front of the chest and the clavicle, and behind by a line lying in the plane of the 7th cervical vertebra.
  Shoulders; from the shape of the shoulders to some extent depends on the shape of the neck. With low, sloping shoulders, the neck seems elongated, with straight shoulders she seems to be cropped.
  Chest; its shape depends on the shape of the chest and muscles, covering it. The upper border of the breast define the clavicle and the lower bottom edge. In women over the pectoral muscles located breast. There are four basic forms of the breast: a Cup-shaped, hemispherical, conical and pendulous.
  Belly located from the lower thorax to the upper edge of the pelvis. In women, the abdomen is slightly longer and wider than men, more comes forward and has a rounded shape.
  Back - the back of the torso, located between the 7th cervical vertebra and the sacrum. Upper back chest is called the thoracic region of the back, and the lower part of the lumbar region of the back. Upper back lumbar is wider, has a convex shape in the blades.
  Buttocks that determines the shape and degree of protrusion of this part of the body, are considered when determining the volume in clothes. 
  Forearm the lower part of the arm to the wrist. The muscles of the forearm thicker and more massive at the top, and the brush is thinner.
  Thigh - the upper leg to bend the knee.
  A shank located from the knee down his legs.
These body parts are important in modeling clothing as a support main structural zones. Together, they determine the shape, size clothes vertically and horizontally.

CONSTRUCTIVE BELT OF A HUMAN FIGURE
 

When modeling clothes adopted by the following structural belt. In Fig. 1 shows the main structural zones of the human body.

  Head constructive zone (1) take into account when shaping garment, covering the person's head.
  Neck constructive zone (2) are taken into account when forming collars and neck wear. Is the first plane of articulation of the human figure horizontally.
  Shoulder constructive zone (3) are taken into account when designing clothes for figures with different shape of the shoulders and their turn - it determines the overall width of the garment at the shoulders. Is the second plane of division of the pieces horizontally.
  Breast constructive zone (4) is located horizontally at the level of the armpits; in front it passes through the thoracic glands, in the back - in the thoracic part of the back. Is of great importance in determining the degree of volume and width clothing and as a place dividing the garment horizontally in this part of the figure.
  Constructive waistband waist line (5) is located horizontally; it is at the most depressed points of the side walls of the body, is taken into account in determining the degree of volume, the width of the goods at the waist, is the main place of articulation of the figure horizontally.
  Pelvic constructive zone (6) is horizontally held in the upper thighs, buttocks and lower abdomen. In determining the depth, width and dividing the garment at this level of the body.
  Ederny constructive zone (7) is located between the pelvic girdle and knees, in determining the volume, the width of the wear on this part of the body.
  Granny constructive zone (8) is located below the knee and characterizes the depth and width of the bottom of the dress.
  An elbow rest constructive zone (9) located from the forearm to the hand, determine the volume and wide sleeves robes at the shoulder, elbow, wrist.

SIZES AND BODY SIZES OF A PERSON

The most important signs of a human figure are: height, size, figure and proportion of parts of the human body. For the manufacture of clothing made to divide people into five growths. In table. 1 shows separation of growth of men and women in the Shoe and without a hat. For men adopted the heel height of the Shoe is 3 cm, for women - 4 see
 

The sizes of the clothes determine the value of poluobhvat of the human body in cm on the chest. For adults taken from a size 44 to 60. Interdimensional the difference is 2 cm.

The body types of the person define the various postures and panorami.

Depending on the posture of the human figures are normal, bulging, and pereghibati. Posture is determined depending on the torso. In Fig. 2 shows female figures with different postures. Posture of the male figures in similar postures of female figures.
 

Completeness of people is determined by the relation of three dimensions: poluobhvat of the chest, waist and hips. Just made four of completeness: small, medium, large; men still very large. In table. 2 shows the magnitude of poluobhvat of the chest, waist and hips for people of the same size, but different widths. (a size 48 for women and 50 for men).
 

Completeness in large part due to the age of the people: small and medium body characteristic of young people (20 - 29 years) and middle age (44 years), a large fullness for older people (over 45 years). The number of older people low completeness is very small, so the private type when modeling the clothing they are not isolated. In medium and large polnota presents all ages. Thus, adoption of eight types of shapes. The age distribution of these types of shapes according to the sizes given in table. 3.